Suspension Mod
SFC, STP, and LCA are always a great way to start your suspension mods. I did the SFC and STB first and it really made the car hug the turns. I love coming off the interstate, shifting down into 4th, and taking the cloverleaf at 60 MPH without ever touching the brakes.
Once I installed a set of boxed LCAs, I was able to move my launch from 1700 RPM to 3000 RPM, and still get traction. It moved my 60' time from 2.1 to 1.9. That's not bad considering I'm riding on Kumho 712's and running 4.11 gears in the rear.
I only had one night at the track after the LCA's were put on, and I only got 4 runs because of some idiot spraying oil all over the track and holding us up for 2 hours.
I think I can take my launch up even higher and still get traction, which will lower my 60' time and get me a 12 second timeslip. Considering the car weighs 3850 with me in it and in full street trim (I.E. spare tire, jack, nothing removed for the track), I'm pleased with my times considering the minimal mods.
I race at the track exactly the way the car rides on the street. I can't stand it when someone says that they ran a 12.5 at the track, but later find out that they removed the spare tire, jack, audio gear, washer fluid, sway bar, rear seat, empty gas tank except for 3 gallons of race gas, and slapped on a set of drag radials. Hell, if I did all that, I could run 11's.
Once I installed a set of boxed LCAs, I was able to move my launch from 1700 RPM to 3000 RPM, and still get traction. It moved my 60' time from 2.1 to 1.9. That's not bad considering I'm riding on Kumho 712's and running 4.11 gears in the rear.
I only had one night at the track after the LCA's were put on, and I only got 4 runs because of some idiot spraying oil all over the track and holding us up for 2 hours.
I think I can take my launch up even higher and still get traction, which will lower my 60' time and get me a 12 second timeslip. Considering the car weighs 3850 with me in it and in full street trim (I.E. spare tire, jack, nothing removed for the track), I'm pleased with my times considering the minimal mods.
I race at the track exactly the way the car rides on the street. I can't stand it when someone says that they ran a 12.5 at the track, but later find out that they removed the spare tire, jack, audio gear, washer fluid, sway bar, rear seat, empty gas tank except for 3 gallons of race gas, and slapped on a set of drag radials. Hell, if I did all that, I could run 11's.
Is there a difference between a tubular subframe and a regular SFC....? what company sells one of the best sfc and a stb?
somewhere not too expen$ive
somewhere not too expen$ive
Last edited by LetMeBurnU; Feb 23, 2004 at 02:09 AM.
Originally posted by LetMeBurnU
Is there a difference between a tubular subframe and a regular SFC....? what company sells one of the best sfc and a stb?
somewhere not too expen$ive
Is there a difference between a tubular subframe and a regular SFC....? what company sells one of the best sfc and a stb?
somewhere not too expen$ive
For twisties, autocross, roadrace. You want a diamond style
For hard street driving. You want boxed
For drag racing. You want the lightest tubular ones.
All mods for any car should be taylored to the intended use. ie don't put a road race suspension on then go dragracing and expect stellar rresults. Or don't put a loosey goosey drag race suspension on then try to autocross. These are just examples.
boxed sfc will be a bit stiffer, but will probably sacrifice a litle ground clearance. i installed them on my 99 and they are at the same level as the factory ground fx. so i really didn't lose anything.
tubular are typically a bit lighter, and less expensive.
you would probably see little difference with the diamond style.
for average to moderate driving you would not notice a significat difference between the types.
i suggest www.bmrfabrication.com boxed for $159 and your choice of colors (kindda cheesy but nice too)
tubular are typically a bit lighter, and less expensive.
you would probably see little difference with the diamond style.
for average to moderate driving you would not notice a significat difference between the types.
i suggest www.bmrfabrication.com boxed for $159 and your choice of colors (kindda cheesy but nice too)
Originally posted by AL SS590 M6
It depends upon what you want to use your car for.
For twisties, autocross, roadrace. You want a diamond style
For hard street driving. You want boxed
For drag racing. You want the lightest tubular ones.
All mods for any car should be taylored to the intended use. ie don't put a road race suspension on then go dragracing and expect stellar rresults. Or don't put a loosey goosey drag race suspension on then try to autocross. These are just examples.
It depends upon what you want to use your car for.
For twisties, autocross, roadrace. You want a diamond style
For hard street driving. You want boxed
For drag racing. You want the lightest tubular ones.
All mods for any car should be taylored to the intended use. ie don't put a road race suspension on then go dragracing and expect stellar rresults. Or don't put a loosey goosey drag race suspension on then try to autocross. These are just examples.
so its best to decide what you plan on using your car for in the future and then buying parts that will accomodate that use.
...and i've just realized that i basically reiterated what was just stated without adding any helpful information.....damn.
Originally posted by AL SS590 M6
It depends upon what you want to use your car for.
For twisties, autocross, roadrace. You want a diamond style
For hard street driving. You want boxed
For drag racing. You want the lightest tubular ones.
All mods for any car should be taylored to the intended use. ie don't put a road race suspension on then go dragracing and expect stellar rresults. Or don't put a loosey goosey drag race suspension on then try to autocross. These are just examples.
It depends upon what you want to use your car for.
For twisties, autocross, roadrace. You want a diamond style
For hard street driving. You want boxed
For drag racing. You want the lightest tubular ones.
All mods for any car should be taylored to the intended use. ie don't put a road race suspension on then go dragracing and expect stellar rresults. Or don't put a loosey goosey drag race suspension on then try to autocross. These are just examples.
Originally posted by LetMeBurnU
What would my best bet for just daily driving and for track use and lil twisties?
What would my best bet for just daily driving and for track use and lil twisties?
first: if you mean "lil twisties" as in going to an autox or roadcoarse, then you got things to consider. if you plan on actually doing scca events, then SFC's will bump you up to a higher class that i'm pretty sure puts you outside the classes of mildly modified cars so your competition is going to be thicker than i think you would like. if you just plan on going to open tracks events then SFC's won't change anything...just your experience changes things.
second: do you got t-tops? cuz if you got a hardtop...double diamond sfc's are less necessary...especially since you don't plan on doing much twisty work anyway....
and by "track use" i guess you mean drag strip? i personally think that sfc's aren't necessary for the strip unless your pushin enough power and runnin slicks so that you might actually start pullin the front wheels off the ground. because, i feel, by that time, your frame is going to be put under enough stress to necessitate sfc's. if your just runnin street tires.....its up to you. tubulars and boxed sfc's will both be fine...but i hear the tubulars sit up next to the frame tighter therefore you won't lose any ground clearance, although i think the boxed lose so little ground clearance that it really doesn't matter.
SO, with that said, i have a set of SLP DD SFC's sitting waiting to be installed because i plan for my car to see the roadcoarse...and hopefully...a lot of it.
ok...hope that helped.
Originally posted by tailwindxr7
Get shocks.
The stock DeCarbons suck.
Get shocks.
The stock DeCarbons suck.
good suggestion..but if you do, i would recommend to purchase springs to accomodate the new shocks. i've heard that if you don't have springs that work well with the shocks, that the shocks will wear down prematurely...
that's what i've heard.
same thing in reverse also i believe....
...if you think about it, if you got tighter springs but still have stock shocks, then, in a sense, you're making your springs "work" harder since the shocks won't be...holdin up their side of the bargain.....


