So, how screwed am I if.............
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 93
From: Livonia, MI
Not a problem!!
I work at GM Powertrain at the plant that use to build
the LS1 (Romulus). It is now built in St. Catherines.
The orientation on the balancer isn't important to engine
balance. Only on Manual Corvettes, where the engine
is balanced after assembly. The Corvette has a tighter
balance speck than the F-Body.
Just be careful to put it on straight, the hub is aluminum
and will shave off if you press it on crocked.
I work at GM Powertrain at the plant that use to build
the LS1 (Romulus). It is now built in St. Catherines.
The orientation on the balancer isn't important to engine
balance. Only on Manual Corvettes, where the engine
is balanced after assembly. The Corvette has a tighter
balance speck than the F-Body.
Just be careful to put it on straight, the hub is aluminum
and will shave off if you press it on crocked.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 376
From: Chandler, AZ
Originally posted by Zdriven
Not a problem!!
I work at GM Powertrain at the plant that use to build
the LS1 (Romulus). It is now built in St. Catherines.
The orientation on the balancer isn't important to engine
balance. Only on Manual Corvettes, where the engine
is balanced after assembly. The Corvette has a tighter
balance speck than the F-Body.
Just be careful to put it on straight, the hub is aluminum
and will shave off if you press it on crocked.
Not a problem!!
I work at GM Powertrain at the plant that use to build
the LS1 (Romulus). It is now built in St. Catherines.
The orientation on the balancer isn't important to engine
balance. Only on Manual Corvettes, where the engine
is balanced after assembly. The Corvette has a tighter
balance speck than the F-Body.
Just be careful to put it on straight, the hub is aluminum
and will shave off if you press it on crocked.
I was having nightmares of having to take out the crank and have the whole rotating assembly balanced again.
Does it matter that my car is manual 6-spd? I'll be really careful when I re-install it.
By the way do you have any documemtation on how to perform the re-install of heads, cam and intake etc. Where is the best place to find this info?
Thanks again, I can sleep better now!
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 93
From: Livonia, MI
XKnightRider,
No, it dosen't matter that your car is a manual. Like I
mentioned earlier. The F-body balance spec is
.5 inch/ounce and the Man Vette is .25 inch/ounce .
I don't know the best place to get sevice info,
(ie head-cam install) I just know how we do it on
the assembly line. Its alot easier to do with the
engine on a pallet out of the car.
No, it dosen't matter that your car is a manual. Like I
mentioned earlier. The F-body balance spec is
.5 inch/ounce and the Man Vette is .25 inch/ounce .
I don't know the best place to get sevice info,
(ie head-cam install) I just know how we do it on
the assembly line. Its alot easier to do with the
engine on a pallet out of the car.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 376
From: Chandler, AZ
Originally posted by Zdriven
XKnightRider,
No, it dosen't matter that your car is a manual. Like I
mentioned earlier. The F-body balance spec is
.5 inch/ounce and the Man Vette is .25 inch/ounce .
I don't know the best place to get sevice info,
(ie head-cam install) I just know how we do it on
the assembly line. Its alot easier to do with the
engine on a pallet out of the car.
XKnightRider,
No, it dosen't matter that your car is a manual. Like I
mentioned earlier. The F-body balance spec is
.5 inch/ounce and the Man Vette is .25 inch/ounce .
I don't know the best place to get sevice info,
(ie head-cam install) I just know how we do it on
the assembly line. Its alot easier to do with the
engine on a pallet out of the car.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 93
From: Livonia, MI
stik6,
I haven't heard anything about aftermarket balancers messing
up crankshafts. The only thing I could think of would be that
they weren't installed properly or damaging threads in the
crank. Sorry I couldn't help.
I do know it takes a lot of torque! If the bolt wasn't tight
enough the balancer could spin on the crank and damage it.
Torque spec: 50 N-m + 140 degrees.
That means torque the bolt to 50 N-m and then turn the bolt
an additional 140 degress. The resulting torque is usually
around 400 N-m or 275 to 300 ft/lbs.
Double check the spec though, don't take my word for it. I would
hate to tell you the wrong spec.
I haven't heard anything about aftermarket balancers messing
up crankshafts. The only thing I could think of would be that
they weren't installed properly or damaging threads in the
crank. Sorry I couldn't help.
I do know it takes a lot of torque! If the bolt wasn't tight
enough the balancer could spin on the crank and damage it.
Torque spec: 50 N-m + 140 degrees.
That means torque the bolt to 50 N-m and then turn the bolt
an additional 140 degress. The resulting torque is usually
around 400 N-m or 275 to 300 ft/lbs.
Double check the spec though, don't take my word for it. I would
hate to tell you the wrong spec.
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