Is there any specialty stuff you need to know/have to rebuild these engines? Would a person that has experience with most engines out there (chevy/ford/whatever) be able to accomplish this? I have rebuilt quite a few, and so has my Dad (he will be doing it if I go this route next time I deploy, he has a better shop than me). I have heard that these things require some specialty machine work and such, and have also heard its not much worse than a reg 350, just trying to clarify... she's got 152k on her right now, will prob be well past 200 by my next deployment, so she's prob about due... I just don't wanna put too much money into build-up if the bottom end is gonna fail shortly after, as being enlisted, money isnt the easiest to come by...

 

The only thing that is really different is the fasteners and torque specs/sequences. The actual rebuild is a rebuild is a rebuild.

 

Properly honing the cylinders requires a torque plate. Most average machine shops will not have an LS1 plate. The SBF plate can work if the machinist knows what he's doing.

Buying an already built performance shortblock (with warranty) from a reputable company is very comparable in price to a local rebuild that will most likely disappoint.

 

Yep. You need to hone those blocks with the mains fastened and torque plate installed. I actually use a torque plate on both banks just like I do with the modular Ford motors as it does make a difference in bore geometry.

Surface finishes are very important on the block and head surfaces for the MLS gaskets - not all shops have the tooling necessary to do this.

Generic 3 angle valve job won't cut it with these heads either and will cause them to flow less than they did from the factory.

 

There are a number of features different from older push rod designs. There are a couple decent how to books on the market that would help someone new to this motor do a good job.