I've got a 98 Z28 with factory ground effects and I've just installed DMS springs which gives me about a 1.5" drop. Does anyone know of ramps that will work so I can still do my own oil changes? I hear a lot about rhino ramps, but don't know if they'll work for this situation?

 

Umm a couple of 2x6x12 boards will do the job just fine. Drive onto the boards and the jack goes under just fine. Should cost you less than $10 at your local lumber yard.

 

I have Rhino Ramps and aren't impressed with them except for the fact that they're low.

I bought mine for $30 at AutoZone. They're made of hard plastic and each one has a rubber grip that's a little bigger than a stamp at the base of each one to ensure grip, yeah right.

When I put my car on these ramps, I position them so they're right up against the concrete lip where my driveway meets my garage. No matter how easy I am on the throttle when I'm driving up the ramps, my car manages to push them about one foot into the garage. My car makes it up the ramps, but I'm not impressed that they're sliding all over the place because they can't handle my car.

Like I said, the only thing good about them is that they're really low profile.

 

I've got a set of ramps that are made of "recycled rubber products" I think, and they're good because they don't really slide much at all. They're fairly heavy too.

I've found that I have to lay a couple 2x4's in front of the tires to get up onto the ramps though, cause they won't quite fit under the front GFX. To jack the whole car up though, I've actually gotta run the back wheels up onto something like a 2x4 or 2x6 first, because if I drive the front onto the ramps, there's no way I can get a jack underneath the diff housing! I had a hell of a time rotating the tires for the first time two weeks ago!

BTW: my car is "stock" height, so I can't imagine what it would be like lowered?! I've had a lot of people ask if it's been lowered though, because it's lower than any other STOCK F-body it's been beside so far, which is an LT1 and an LS1 T/A, and even other people have asked if it's been lowered. I know it hasn't, because I've had it since new, but I don't think I ever would..............especially considering what a PITA it already is to jack up!!!

 

i use the rhino ramps as well and with the 2by4 it does the job great

 

Hey SFB767. I had the same problem with the Rhino Ramps sliding. My son with a slammed Extreme gave me this tip that works everytime for me. Also for anyone else having this problem. Slide the ramps under the front until the edge touches the tire. Then push a little bit more till the front of the ramp starts to come off the ground. That plants that small rubber deal so that when the tire rolls forward there is already some grip. If the floor is just plain too smooth for any grip, then pay a visit to Wally world or Target, whatever is close. Buy the cheapest size of that rubberized shelf liner stuff. Cut off enough to fit under the entire ramp. that should solve the sliding around thing. You can use the tool box liner stuff from Sears, but it is expensive and tears up just like the cheap stuff- guess how I know. BTW are you in the South Florida F-body Association? May see you at one of the Bradenton Invasions if you are.

Cheers

PJ

 

Thanks for the tip PJ, I will definitely try it the next time I change my oil. My garage floor is smooth, and my driveway is the normal coarse pavement, so I'm worried about my car sliding on my smooth garage floor, but I bet the shelf liner will solve the problem.

Nah, I'm not in the South Florida F-body Association, I'm in Orlando.

I'll be over in the Tampa area all day Monday, so if you see your car's twin, give me a honk.

 

You can see a picture of mine here.
http://2002.cz28.com/SemiDamaged.jpg
You'll probably have to cut and paste though. I used two equal sized 1X8's and two equal sized lanscape tembers. But you can use any size lumber for the top piece. Just nail them together. Since the 1X8 is so thin, they won't slide. Then the weight of the car is on them so they won't slip when you hit the thick section either. Once on the thick section, slide any sized ramp you want up to the end of the jig. Drive right up, no sweat.