Well, I discovered a nice fat layer of water on top of the plastic I laid down in my garage and parked my car over. So, I decided that sice it was a nice day, I'd pull the cars out and remove the plastic to the water didn't evaporate and rise up into the chassis and engine bay.

I pulled Frezza's car out first (I am storing it in my garage for the winter). It started fine, runs fine, etc...

Then I pulled mine out. First my battery was dead, but I already knew that. I jumped it and once I got it running, it ran very rough. After a little bit, it settled into a regular idle, but every time I blipped the throttle (like when I was trying to move it out of the garage), it acted like it wanted to stall. I figured this was natural since it was sitting since October.

It has been running for about 45 minutes to an hour, and every minute or so when the fans kick on, the tach comes back down and dips to about 500 rpms and acts like it wants to stall and then comes back up into a normal idle.

It also happens when I blip the throttle...the tach comes up normally and instead of settling down right away, it dips to 500 rpm, acts like it wants to stall and then goes back to a normal idle.

Frezza's car doesn't do this, and both of ours are 2002 SSs, his has 3,000 miles and I have 1,500.

Anyone have an idea why this is happening?

 

im sorry that im not a hundred percent sure but i think it might just be that moisture settled in your gas tank over the winter and if it i the best advice i could give you to prevent this from happening again is to put stabil in your gas tank before you store it for the winter which you can ge from your local advance or autozone

 

I'd be willing to bet that your battery is either really dead, and is still trying to get a full charge, or it's toast.

If you can't sell that yellow top you have you should put it in your car instead.

Jacob

 

I just edited my post to make a little more sense.

Before I pulled mine out of the garage, I dumped a bottle of octane boost in the tank. I should probably go get some DryGas as well, but I am afaid to think it is not the gas since it idles normally when I am not blipping the throttle or when the fans kick on.

I am sure it is no big deal and will hopefully work its way out with the next fill-up or after I drive it a bit.

Keep the ideas coming! Thanks so far.

 

Jason,
Sometimes when you unhook or totally kill the battery in an LS1 car it will forget how to idle.
There is an idle relearn procedure. It involves running it a certain amount of time with the air on and then some with it off. I'm at work so I don't have the document at hand.
E-mail me and I can send the procedure to you.
HTHs

 

Jay, run that gas out and go get a new tank.. my car runs fine with the same gas as last year.. except i didnt put any octane boost in the car.. dont use that crap..

its 1 of three things.. gas, idle learn.. or you left you MAF unhooked/or there is a leak in the intake track

 

Jason, as AL SS590 M6 said it could be because of your battery being dead and your computer needs to relearn it's self, just letting it idle won't help..you need to take it for a drive. If you're thinking about getting a new battery don't waste your money on fancy battery, the best battery I've found is the AutoZone Gold Series, it has a full three replacement warranty. JMO

Al

 

Al (Fox), e-mail sent to you! Thanks!

Eh...the bottle was just sitting there on my shelf so I grabbed it and dumped it in for good measure. I guess gas loses octane points after a while. Figured it couldn't hurt.

Quote:

its 1 of three things.. gas,

Maybe.

Quote:

idle learn..

Probably.

Quote:

or you left you MAF unhooked/

Doubt it, I never unhooked it.

Quote:

or there is a leak in the intake track

Is there an easy way to find out if that is the case?


I can't, I don't have full covereage insurance on it yet. I only put fire/theft/vandalism insurance on it while it is stored. I don't plan to actually drive it for a couple more weeks at least.

Quote:

If you're thinking about getting a new battery don't waste your money on fancy battery, the best battery I've found is the AutoZone Gold Series, it has a full three replacement warranty. JMO

Thanks, but I already have a new battery. I have had it for a couple of years, just never used it. Looks like I may have to!

 

Okay...it worked.

Thanks Al!

For those who have this problem in the future, here is what you have to do:

First you have to reset the ECM:
This is intended to reset that aggravating 'Service Engine Soon' light so many of us seem to see. The light is normally set due to a loose gas cap
or a high frequency error on the mass air flow sensor in front of the intake manifold. If the light persists, you may want to have you car checked by a GM dealer. It may be a good idea to remove your K&N air filter, and replace it with the stock filter or equivalent before your visit to the dealer. Dealers, in the past, have been known to blame the
MAS error on excessive oil in the K&N leaking onto the MAS. If the fuses
aren't removed in this procedure, the codes will be stored in the ECM
until the fuses are removed, or the dealer clears them with a scan tool.
Rumors have it that stored codes retard timing and spark ignition which
will hinder the performance of your LS1.

1. Turn key on but don't start car.
2. Pull PCM BAT and PCM IGN fuses in engine compartment.
3. Wait a few minutes.
4. Turn ignition off.
5. Replace fuses.

(The above was found on LS1.Com)

Then you have to let the ECM learn how to idle again:

FOR AUTOMATIC CARS
1. Make sure ignition is off
2. Turn off A/C Controls
3. Set parking brake and block rear wheels
4. Start the engine
5. Let engine run intil coolant is at 176 degrees F
6. Hold foot on brake, shift transmission into DRIVE
7. Allow engine to idle for 5 minutes.
8. Turn A/C controls to ON (omit for 2000 model)
9. Allow engine to idle in that state for 5 minutes. (omit for 2000 model)
10. Shift transmission into PARK
11. Allow engine to idle for 5 minutes. (omit for 2000 model)
12. Turn A/C controls to OFF (omit for 2000 model)
13. Allow engine to idle for 5 minutes.
14. Turn engine off for 15 minutes

FOR MANUAL CARS
1. Make sure ignition is off
2. Turn off A/C Controls
3. Set parking brake and block rear wheels and make sure transmission is in NEUTRAL
4. Start the engine
5. Let engine run intil coolant is at 176 degrees F
6. Turn A/C controls to ON (omit for 2000 model)
7. Allow engine to idle for 5 minutes. (omit for 2000 model)
8. Turn A/C controls to OFF (omit for 2000 model)
9. Allow engine to idle for 5 minutes.
10. Turn engine off for 15 minutes.

When you start the car again, it should idle normally. You may have to still drive it a bit to get into the optimal modes.

If none of this works, you may have to see your dealership for service. YMMV.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by JasonD
[B]Okay...it worked.

Thanks Al!

You quite welcome.
Question
Do you have a web page or any details worked up for the Z'.com Nats in July yet? Just wonderin'.

 

Edited my subject to be eaier to find.

Soon...very soon...

 

Jason,
My car wa stored since OCTOBER and I didnt even disconect the battery. I started it up every 2 weeks and never had a problem.

I just took her out this weekend for the first time this year

 

'Course not...this problem happenes when the battery is disconnected.

Feels good to get the car out, though, eh?

 

Yah, that's what I was going to suggest. When I unhooked my battery to install a !CAGS module, the ECM went braindead and the car idled like crap when I rehooked everything. It'll straighten itself out as it "relearns" everything.