LS1 Based Engine Tech LS1 / LS6 / LS2 / LS3 / LS7 Engine Tech

Noises in my car...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-06-2002, 05:19 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Wardog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 11
Question Noises in my car...

I know I have queried these boards before on this, but I am going nuts here! Right now I have the trim pieces removed from the hatch (all the way around) and the right rear by the rear seat. Especially when the car is hot inside I get a squeaking/clicking noise that sounds like plastic rubbing - loud enough to draw immediate attention. It sounds like it's right from the area between the top of the hatch and the front shoulder belt retractor. My car has a solid roof - no T's. I replaced my hatch lifts and even shot some expanding foam in the cavity up where I think the noise originates. All to no avail! The noise is definitely related to the slightest motion of the car - you hear it at only 2 mph. It goes away when I stop. I don't know what else to pull out in attempts to isolate the offending part. I did remove the Monsoon amp and the spare tire/jack for testing - noise remained. After 10 or so miles it goes away - until the next time I get in the car and the sun has baked it. Of course I also am running the a/c full blast on those hot days to cool the car - and me. I do not have frame stiffeners or STB's on the car - its suspension is basically stock except for my sig. Is my carbody flexing and then reaching a steady-state condition? Has anyone seen this problem? Rear glass seems solidly installed - only 43,000 miles on the car. What else can I try? Thanks for any ideas/especially solutions!

------------------
Wardog

1998 Camaro SS M6, dark blue, black roof, neutral (tan) cloth interior, hardtop, Optional SLP Chrome 17" SS wheels with SS center caps, BFG G-Force KDWS tires, SLP Hurst shifter & leather shift ****, Dynomax 3" Super Turbo cat-back, SLP boxed panhard bar and RCA's - 1LE bushings installed in the RCA's, T/A Performance rear end cover and stud kit, SLP mats, dash plaque, key fobs, owner's manual cover, SLP SS grille, !CAGS, EGR free mod, !MAF Screen, Whisper Lid + K&N, Alpine head unit and XM radio tuner with Orion CS 500.5 5-ch amp, MB Quart PSD 213 in Q-Form Kick panel enclosures, and PSC 316 speakers in back. JL Stealth Box with 10W3 subwoofer.
Wardog is offline  
Old 06-06-2002, 05:34 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
XKnightRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 376
Question

Do your LCA's and P-rod have poly bushings...on my 'ol LT1 I noticed these noises when I put them in. It made my rear hatch rattle.

What about you shocks? Are they the stock ones? did you try tightening the top of the shock mount?

There is really not much else back there.



------------------
2002 Camaro SS #3586 6M Sebring Silver, T-top, Billet Grille, Hurst shifter, !CAGS, Whisper CF Lid, Holly PowerShot filter, Corsa Catback w/full polish tips, 160 Thermo, SLP fan switch, ASR reverser, TA axle cover w/stud kit, MAFT.

Waiting to install: NX wet kit, Hotchkis STB, LCA's, APHR.

Baseline Dyno: 317.9RWHP 335.9RWTQ with MAF ends only: 325.6RWHP 350RWTQ. (Stock)1st 1/4 mile 13.46 @106.9 2.23-60'
new best 13.306 @107.89 2.12 60'
http://community.webshots.com/user/xknightrider
4-sale MAF ends....going to N02 so need to ditch them.
XKnightRider is offline  
Old 06-07-2002, 08:50 AM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Wardog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 11
Unhappy

XKnightRider,

I did check my (stock) rear shocks to be sure that they were tight. The rubber shock bushings were intact. I put in the reinforced LCA's (with 1LE bushings I had pressed in to replace the poly bushings that came in them) and the Panhard Bar - which does have poly bushings - but the noises were there before I put these parts on. I had these parts on my '96 and saved them when I sold that car. I will look into the rear hatch rattling. Maybe I can wedge some foam around both hinges, shut the hatch (thereby putting slight force up on the hatch and hopefully taking out any slop in the hinges) and then see if I get the noise the next time I get in the car on a hot day. Any other ideas? Could something inside the body (a weld...) have broken loose, i.e. a factory defect that I should have the dealer look at?

Thanks,

------------------
Wardog

1998 Camaro SS M6, dark blue, black roof, neutral (tan) cloth interior, hardtop, Optional SLP Chrome 17" SS wheels with SS center caps, BFG G-Force KDWS tires, SLP Hurst shifter & leather shift ****, Dynomax 3" Super Turbo cat-back, SLP boxed panhard bar and RCA's - 1LE bushings installed in the RCA's, T/A Performance rear end cover and stud kit, SLP mats, dash plaque, key fobs, owner's manual cover, SLP SS grille, !CAGS, EGR free mod, !MAF Screen, Whisper Lid + K&N, Alpine head unit and XM radio tuner with Orion CS 500.5 5-ch amp, MB Quart PSD 213 in Q-Form Kick panel enclosures, and PSC 316 speakers in back. JL Stealth Box with 10W3 subwoofer.
Wardog is offline  
Old 06-07-2002, 01:15 PM
  #4  
Registered User
 
Frank99'z-28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 28
Post

hey man i got noises in my car too i cant figure it out either i wouldn't worry about it except thatthey are annoying

------------------
99' Chevy Camaro Z-28
-K&N F.I.P.I.K.
-Eibach 1.5" drop kit
-SLP LM exhaust
-neon on the floorboards
- Looking for a turbo setup, any tips hit me up bushmaster200021666@yahoo.com
Frank99'z-28 is offline  
Old 06-07-2002, 01:16 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
XKnightRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 376
Talking

I'd check that hatch, mine rattled till I sold the darn thing, adjusting the rubber stops helped but it always did it. I doubt that anything broke loose because it's all uni-body construction. But with your stereo stuff are you sure something didn't drop down into the body? And does it make any difference if your windows are up or down. On my '88TA that was a culprit, the window holder in the door came loose and let it rattle all the time, but it was worse when it was down.

Do you LCA's and P-Rod have lube points?

My brother had a squeek like this in his '95 it was a pain to find. I can't even remember what it was in the end.
XKnightRider is offline  
Old 06-12-2002, 06:46 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
MLS-1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 1
Post

I have an '02 SS that had a "chirping" noise when I drove over slightly bumpy roads. It was finally fixed by the dealer greasing the emergency brake cables that ran over the top and behing the rear differential. I think the squeaking was from the cable guides rubbing-metal to metal. Now, no squeaking. (Check also for the hooks to keep the back seat secured, they seem to squeak sometimes. Put tape around the latch to fix. Good luck!

------------------
'02 Red/SS,neutual leather, T-Tops, M-6,Cags!,Hotchkis STB, SLP lid w/Mr.ed's S pipe, Mac LS1 springs, Stull billet grille w/'67 SS badge, tints, xenon superwhites-high/low/fogs, custom 2.25" y-pipe into a 3" I-pipe/spintech/2.5"duals.
MLS-1 is offline  
Old 06-12-2002, 08:14 PM
  #7  
Registered User
 
Beefcake61's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Altoona, PA USA
Posts: 87
Post

Well, I don't know what the problem is, but I'll see if I can help. If the noises sound like they are coming from the inside, just have a friend or some one drive your car around a parking lot in the conditions that your nioses arrive. Then you sit in the back seat and put your hand everywhere you think the noise is coming from. Eventually you should find the problem. If the noises sounds like they are on the outside -sorry, I don't know what to tell you. Good Luck on you noise quest

Rob

------------------
1999 Z-28 Camaro
T-Tops, 6 speed
Beefcake61 is offline  
Old 06-12-2002, 08:19 PM
  #8  
LWM
Registered User
 
LWM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 324
Post

You may have a defective weld.

Consider removing the interior plastic stuff and using moderate pressure, push on welds and the areas around the suspected source of the sound, you may be able to put something in somewhere that might eliminate the noise.

Similar thing happened to me with my 95.

You could also take it back to the dealer if it is still under warranty.

Hope this helps

LWM

------------------
95 A4, SLP catback, KBDD sfc, airfoil, Vortech S-trim, 30# SVO injectors, Autometer electric FP guage, boost guage, Hotchkis STB, AS&M headers, AFPR, Vortech Aftercooler, 3.125" blower pulley, 7" crank pulley, Vigilante 2,800 stall, MSD 6 BTM, SLP 35mm front bar, SLP 21mm rear bar, LT-1 editor ... , 437hp at the wheels. --- members.shaw.ca/mackenzl/LWMsZ-28/LWMsZ-28.html ... 01 vert in the making ...
LWM is offline  
Old 06-21-2002, 09:27 AM
  #9  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Wardog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 11
Question

I think LWM is on to my problem. I pulled out my 1998 Service Manual (Second Edition) and page 8-677 (in the "Squeaks and Rattles" section - why I never checked this section before I do not know...I bought the books for info on systems and major repairs) has info on "Noise Diagnosis - Rear of Vehicle (Passenger Side B-Pillar Creak)." It lists the symptoms as "Creak coming from the upper B-Pillar/roof area on the passenger side. Usually only happens over 16 C/(60 F) ambient temperature." Possible cause is listed as "sheet metal interference in the middle to upper area of the B-Pillar." The diagnosis is to remove the trim, drive and listen. My car made all kinds of noise in this area. Corrective action is to "Strike the B-Pillar sheet metal with a ball peen hammer to put a slight indentation in the inside body panel."

Can you believe this? Anyway, I put the dent where the drawing shows (above rear wheel well inline with the bottom of the rear glass...) and it helped reduce the noise but did not eliminate it. Any ideas? Put more dents in, cut slots, etc...?

Thanks,

------------------
Wardog

1998 Camaro SS M6, dark blue, black roof, neutral (tan) cloth interior, hardtop, Optional SLP Chrome 17" SS wheels with SS center caps, BFG G-Force KDWS tires, SLP Hurst shifter & leather shift ****, Dynomax 3" Super Turbo cat-back w/ SLP "dual/dual" tips, SLP boxed panhard bar and RCA's - 1LE bushings installed in the RCA's, T/A Performance rear end cover and stud kit, SLP mats, dash plaque, key fobs, owner's manual cover, SLP SS grille, !CAGS, EGR free mod, !MAF Screen, Whisper Lid + K&N, Alpine head unit and XM radio tuner with Orion CS 500.5 5-ch amp, MB Quart PSD 213 in Q-Form Kick panel enclosures, and PSC 316 speakers in back. JL Stealth Box with 10W3 subwoofer.
Wardog is offline  
Old 06-21-2002, 10:14 PM
  #10  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Wardog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 11
Post

Folks,

Tomorrow I'm going to selectively pull out some of the small dents I made in an attempt to isolate the noise area - then shoot more foam there. Any other thoughts? I could put in the STB I took off my '96. It will work on a '98 SS.

Thanks,

------------------
Wardog

1998 Camaro SS M6, dark blue, black roof, neutral (tan) cloth interior, hardtop, Optional SLP Chrome 17" SS wheels with SS center caps, BFG G-Force KDWS tires, SLP Hurst shifter & leather shift ****, Dynomax 3" Super Turbo cat-back w/ SLP "dual/dual" tips, SLP boxed panhard bar and RCA's - 1LE bushings installed in the RCA's, T/A Performance rear end cover and stud kit, SLP mats, dash plaque, key fobs, owner's manual cover, SLP SS grille, !CAGS, EGR free mod, !MAF Screen, Whisper Lid + K&N, Alpine 7998 head unit and XM radio tuner with Alpine V12 amps, MB Quart PSD 213 in Q-Form Kick panel enclosures, and PSC 316 speakers in back. JL Stealth Box with 10W3 subwoofer.
Wardog is offline  
Old 06-27-2002, 05:08 PM
  #11  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Wardog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 11
Thumbs up

Guys,

I am closing in on the problem. I just got a good email about putting foam under my rear seat retractor latches. That may be the next thing I try... I did the dent thing with foam and reduced some noise, but then picked up related noise. I stuck some foam (and let it get pinched to press the hinge up and take up the slack - if any) under my right-side rear hatch hinge, and closed it. The noise seemed drastically reduced. I'll drive it again this afternoon and hope it's solved. If so, I replace the hinges...

Thanks

------------------
Wardog

1998 Camaro SS M6, dark blue, black roof, neutral (tan) cloth interior, hardtop, Optional SLP Chrome 17" SS wheels with SS center caps, BFG G-Force KDWS tires, SLP Hurst shifter & leather shift ****, Dynomax 3" Super Turbo cat-back w/ SLP "dual/dual" tips, SLP boxed panhard bar and RCA's - 1LE bushings installed in the RCA's, T/A Performance rear end cover and stud kit, SLP mats, dash plaque, key fobs, owner's manual cover, SLP SS grille, !CAGS, EGR free mod, !MAF Screen, Whisper Lid + K&N, Alpine 7998 head unit and XM radio tuner with Alpine V12 amps, MB Quart PSD 213 in Q-Form Kick panel enclosures, and PSC 316 speakers in back. JL Stealth Box with 10W3 subwoofer.
Wardog is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
autoxr166
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
0
09-25-2015 04:21 PM
rideordie
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
1
09-07-2015 08:22 AM
colts0455
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
13
08-07-2015 09:15 PM
GT what?
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
7
07-14-2015 10:17 PM
colts0455
LT1 Based Engine Tech
10
07-07-2015 07:19 PM



Quick Reply: Noises in my car...



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:00 AM.