no start
no start
a friend of mine has a 1998 T/A that starts and runs fine sometimes and then at other times it won't start at all. it turns over fine, sounds like no fuel or spark. could the factory alarm have anything to do with this. where should we start looking? and it does not throw any codes.
thanks, shawn
thanks, shawn
The Vats security system may be starting to malfunction. Does the car not start only when a certain ignition key is used? Most people use one set of keys for their car and keep the 2nd set as a spare and never uses the 2nd set. If this is the case tell your friend to use the spare set for a while to see if the problem still occurs. If the problem stops then the resistor pill in the problem key is bad(worn) time for a new key. If the problem persists with the 2nd key then the ignition cylinder may be going bad.
It it is the vats it should start momentarily then shut off and light up the security light on the insturment panel. In fact anything to do with the factory security system should cause this light to come on unless it is burnt out.
Here you go...from a reliable source:
There are two indicators that the security light will give you in certain situations: One, as you turn the ignition key to start the car, the security light comes on and stays lit. The starter won't crank, and your fuel pump is disabled. The BCM (Battery Control Modulator, I think; book ain't in front of me) is telling the computer that the key being used doesn't have a resistor in it, or the resistor in the key has the wrong value. Two, you turn the key to start the car and the security light flashes, the starter won't crank. The computer is "sensing" either a bad key, or the theft-deterrent system was activated, or the ignition cylinder sensor isn't picking up the key's resistor.
The first condition (steady security light) will reset itself after approx. three minutes; after that, the car should start, there being no other problems. The second condition (flashing security light), you won't get the car started.
You can verify if the vats is the culprit by by-passing it:
Here's what I did: First, grab a multimeter that can read Ohm's (resistance) Measure the resistance in your ignition key pill. Second, head to Radio Shack or some other electronics store that sells common electrical parts, and pick up two wire resistors of the same value. Next, locate the ignition cylinder sensor wire leading from the cylinder; it will be about 16-18 guage, and in an orange shroud (find it as it comes out of the steering column, underneath the knee bolster). Follow that wire to the male/female pin connector; should be either white or black plastic connector. This is where you will insert a resistor of the same value as the resistor found in your ignition key. You can solder it in, or pinch the wires in place with the connector itself; that's what I did. This fools the BCM into thinking the ignition cylinder is reading the key pill value, and will allow you to start your car.
Eventually I replaced my ignition cylinder, and found the 26-guage wires leading from the sensor ring to be broken. It's a common malady for our cars. Good luck, hope this helps!
There are two indicators that the security light will give you in certain situations: One, as you turn the ignition key to start the car, the security light comes on and stays lit. The starter won't crank, and your fuel pump is disabled. The BCM (Battery Control Modulator, I think; book ain't in front of me) is telling the computer that the key being used doesn't have a resistor in it, or the resistor in the key has the wrong value. Two, you turn the key to start the car and the security light flashes, the starter won't crank. The computer is "sensing" either a bad key, or the theft-deterrent system was activated, or the ignition cylinder sensor isn't picking up the key's resistor.
The first condition (steady security light) will reset itself after approx. three minutes; after that, the car should start, there being no other problems. The second condition (flashing security light), you won't get the car started.
You can verify if the vats is the culprit by by-passing it:
Here's what I did: First, grab a multimeter that can read Ohm's (resistance) Measure the resistance in your ignition key pill. Second, head to Radio Shack or some other electronics store that sells common electrical parts, and pick up two wire resistors of the same value. Next, locate the ignition cylinder sensor wire leading from the cylinder; it will be about 16-18 guage, and in an orange shroud (find it as it comes out of the steering column, underneath the knee bolster). Follow that wire to the male/female pin connector; should be either white or black plastic connector. This is where you will insert a resistor of the same value as the resistor found in your ignition key. You can solder it in, or pinch the wires in place with the connector itself; that's what I did. This fools the BCM into thinking the ignition cylinder is reading the key pill value, and will allow you to start your car.
Eventually I replaced my ignition cylinder, and found the 26-guage wires leading from the sensor ring to be broken. It's a common malady for our cars. Good luck, hope this helps!
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Alex Barnes
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Jan 24, 2015 10:21 PM



