Newto LS1's. I have been out of the car scene for 3 years but had a 1994 Z 383 vortech S-trim TH400, 9inch, so on and so on that went 11.22 but just bought a 1999 SS 6 speed that I would like to basically bolt on a few parts add nitrous and maybe run some low 12's or better. Where should I start?
Gears, lid, I am wondering where the best spent money is. I want some parts I can use next year cause I will pull it over the winter and go thru it completely. Any advice please? Thanks Rich

 

This question gets asked at LEAST 3x a week. For future reference, most of your questions can be answered with the search function.

But on a 99 look into a lid, full exhaust, if it's an auto get a stall, if it's a manual gears, slicks + a few bolt-ons alone should get you well into the 12's. With a decent shot of n2o you can look at low 12's high 11's.

 

Thanks for the reply, I did a search and learned a little. So which lid? the whole cold air system or just the lid. Also, going to change out my shifter, found some on ebay with a leather hurst ****, do I need the whole shifter assembly or just the stick and ****. Also, since mine is a SS is there a easy way to find out what has been done to my car from SLP without contacting them. If anyone can decode my vin here it is 2G1FP22GXX2130705 Thanks Rich

 

All the lids are the same, they all do the same thing, just depends on what u wanna spend...
as far as shifter goes, i dont know for sure, bc i have an a4, but a friend of mine said its the whole assembly, someone else will prolly respond w/ a sure answer

 

A lid is a lid, just depends on how much you want to spend. As far as the shifter, you can change out the whole thing or just the stick. I have done just the stick and really enjoy it. You have the M6 (6-speed) you ought to look into the skip shift elimantor. I got mine from www.ws6store.com .

 

Does anyone know what the stock gear ratio is for a 1999 SS 6 speed, and would I be looking at a signifigent gain by going to a 410 or something like that. The car is not daily driven but I will be going on long trips sometimes like power tour and so on.

 

Stock M6 gears are 3.42. 4.10s are a good step up for the M6 guys. We should have our lids back in stock in the next week or so. If your looking for a good catback system, we have Hookers on special for $269.99. Other than that, go with a set of long tube headers and ORY. Any other plans for the car besides nitrous?

Brian

 

Get subframe connectors as one of the first mods. No powered gain, but they pay for themsleves with less rattles, non wrinkled 1/4 panels, etc.

 

This guy does have a point. You ought to build up your suspension to handle the power you are wanting. Change out the panhard bar, LCA's (lower control arms), and also use relocation brackets for the LCA's.
Then start building your power. Power is useless unless you can get it to the ground and keep it there.
Just my .02 cents.

 

Yes, over the winter I will be having a new engine installed, I don't know what I am going to go with yet some I am just now starting to check. My last Z went 11.22 so I wan this one quicker.My good friend ownes Stealy Performance machine so all of my machine work and assembly work is free. He is known for the fastest super stock cars.

 

I called SLP today and they installed the Bilstein shocks and suspension system on my car, does everyone with a SS have this.

 

catback,lid,headers...generally the same sequence you would go w/ the LT1

 

around here there are people running 11.9's with just a 150 kit on.. stock everything else..

 

No, the Bilstein suspension is an option.

As for upgrades, like noted. Build the suspension first with LCAs, PHR, and a torque arm. Subframe connectors are not necessary for drag racing but they definitely help with cornering and making the car feel much more solid. A lid and headers will give you some nice gains but likely with the headers, you'll need tuning to see the most gain. Gears are good only if you have some tires to get enough traction to make the most of them.

For the most fun and cheap gains I'd go the following route: A lid, a cutout, and a dry nitrous kit. That'll get you the most bang for the buck without tuning. You won't be able to run a huge shot without tuning, but you sure will get the most fun out of it.

 

The advise the other guys gave you is good as far as engine bolt ons,as for the shifter , I would just change the whole shifter vs just changing the stick.I changed mine out with a B&M ripper shifter and love it,you will see & feel the difference the first time you drive your car,I guarantee it!The whole job from start to finish took about one hour,it is super easy,I hope this helps you out ,good luck and by the way...NICE CAR!!