I'm sort of new to the LS1 cars...

If someone would care to entertain some purely hypothetical questions please do... I'm looking for a "window answer". You just have to relatively be in the ball park.

What would a '98 Z run with a 3200 stall vigilante converter, simple bolt-ons (filter, lid, muffler, tb bypass, pcm flash), and full length headers run? These modifications along with temporary removal of rear seats, passenger seat, spare, jack and the like. Say loose 150-ish pounds.

Would this dip into the mid 11's without much work? This is, of course, assuming no tire slippage and good conditions. Our local track is 14 feet above sea level.

Okay, I know this is an ignorant question so don't flame me too hard. I did do a search, but didn't get the info I was looking for.

Ben T.

 

With no tire spin and a 3200 stall I hope your planning on drag radials to that list of mods or you'll be quite dissapointed. I would also recommend a girdle for the rear end at the very least if you cant afford a new rear. With all that your looking at about a low 12 second possibly high 11 sec car. With a 3.73 gear added to your mod list it will consistently pull 11s.

 

Yeah, why have the stall with no tires?

It envolved M/T with an 8.8" rear. That's what I meant by "no slippage".

The 8.8" would have only a slightly increased parasitic loss so I just summed it up how I did.

Just bolt-ons and a stall seem to be worth a lot! Try this with a 23* cylinder head equiped LT1! What a great platform to work from these LS1's offer.

Ben T.

 

NO way the car would be any where near a mid 11 sec car. If that was the case then 90% of all the LS1's out there would be running those numbers. I would say that 12.5-12.7 range on a good day with good tires.

 

I'm guessing low 12's with the weight reduction and depending on how you drive.

 

its gona be low 12's all day long

HOLLA

 

I agree

Marc

 

You need more then drag radials, converter, gears, headers on an LS1 to run 11s, mabey add some stage 2 heads and a cam and u might runs 11s. And the seats, spare tire and jack isnt near 150lbs, thats not enough weight reduction to matter.


The easiest way to run 11s is drag radials, full exhaust, lid and nitrous.

 

I say you are 12.5 range with that setup. I can not see any way you would touch 11's yet without at least adding a cam. A 99 A4 hits mid 13's and all the bolton's (lid, headers, catback, ect) will get that down to 13.0 (maybe 12.9). Then the converter with tires should knock off a full .5 and wolaa 12.5 second pass. Maybe with good temperatures and a sweet launch I could see a 12.2 pass.

I just don't see an 11 second pass happening without adding something to that list to get a few more tenths taken off. A nice 224/224 cam should do it or a sweet 100 shot of N20 will soar you into the 11's. But anything is possible so good luck.

 

hows 12.3 at 108 with a 1.70 60 foot sound :-).....i just did it today....mods in sig

 

Thats awsome if tru!

 

i'm new to the LS1 too but i'm curious to why this was said when i've seen LS1 TA's run 13.3's bone stock, no bolt ons at all

unless the TA's are faster (with the same motor?) then it sounds to me your sayin that adding a lid, headers, and a catback will only gain you .3 of a second? sorry, but i smell some bull**** there

i think some folks skiped the part where he said "no slippage" and the part where he said his track is near sea level

i would think a 3200 converter alone would get him in the mid 12's if he hooked up, but thats based on a 13.3 stock run, cause i can tell a huge difference in the acceleration when my TA gets past 3,000rpm

 

And I've seen bone stock ls1's run 13.7 before. What exactly is your point? Note that I said a 99 meaning no ls6 intake. I said auto meaning extra drivetrain HP loss. I said average meaning some do better but some do worse. And I didn't say it but also factored in street tires.

I never said adding a lid catback and headers was only good for .3 seconds. I said the bolt-ons were good for .5 or .6 seconds. You then argued that my starting number was off so if your gonna quote me then at least try and get it right. But if you think a 3200 stall TC can drop .8 then the bull**** is coming from another direction. A 3200 converter is good for .4 or .5 reduction. That is certainly worth it's weight in gold but not quite the .8 you seem to think it can do. My estimates are realistic for a pre-01 LS1 A4 that is AVERAGE.

Now look at my car. It's a 99. It's an A4. It's got lid, exhaust and CAI. Look at my time. 13.5 on a 2.1 60'. Now if I get the 60' down to 2.0 which is about all I can hope for on street tires then I'm hitting maybe a 13.3. Now if I add headers and maybe the pulley I should be able to hit 12.9 or so. Then a 3200-3600 TC is well known for dropping .5 on Drag Radials. That brings me down to 12.4 range. Lets see, 12.4 with bolt-ons and a mid size TC on a pre 01 car. It's almost like I knew what I was talking about.

If his car is a factory freak then his numbers may be better. If his car is a little slower then average his numbers could be higher. If his car is average he can see low to mid 12's with the basic bolt-ons, mild converter and Nittos or BFG DR.

Now if he gets every possible bolt-on, 3.42 or 3.73 gears, ET streets and a 3800-4000 stall TC then I can maybe see a very low 12 second pass or even high 11's with good weather. But my estimates in my first post were based on bolt-ons, A streetable converter and drag radials.

 

i swear its true.....i'd scan my slip if possible but im on a laptop with no scanner available...


more exact numbers were....


1.70 sec 60 foot
5.03 sec 330 foot
7.85 sec 1/8 mile
85.91 1/8 mph
10.244 sec 1000 foot
12.33 sec 1/4 ET
107.59 1/4 mile trap speed.


just thought i would post an example of the exact combination u guys are discussing....

P.S. i think the car had a high 12.20 in it....but i didnt get to make another pass.

 

That would be a low 12 second setup with tires...all day.

You LT1 guys are retarded.