New to the ls1 crowd!
New to the ls1 crowd!
Hey guys ive been posting on the Lt1 board for a while but traded in my 1997 z28 for a 1999 m6. just wondering on a 2000.00 dollar budget what are some good bolt on mods for the ls1 and what kind of h/p can i expect. The car is BONE stock(except for some good quality z rated rrubber.) !!
Thanks Matt
Thanks Matt
Lid
LCA's
Magnaflow Catback -Great bang for the buck!!..
LS6 Intake
SHort stick... (ditch that Munster's Shifter!! -if you still have it)
P+P TB
Maybe a good set of SFC's
FREE MODS FTW!! (check my stickey... I have a write up in there about the free mods if you need it)
LCA's
Magnaflow Catback -Great bang for the buck!!..

LS6 Intake
SHort stick... (ditch that Munster's Shifter!! -if you still have it)
P+P TB
Maybe a good set of SFC's
FREE MODS FTW!! (check my stickey... I have a write up in there about the free mods if you need it)
yeah if I could redo all my mods with a 2000 dollar budget I'd do this:
Buy Used GMMG or stick with SLP dual/dual ($250-350)
Used flowtech or pacesetter LT's coated. ($250)
used lid ($80)
Fernco section at hardware store for "smooth belows" ($5)
p&p stock TB ($75 from people on this board)
32 or 33 MM front swaybar and puly bushings ($60-80)
Strut tower brace ($50)
LCA and adjustable panhard rod set with all poly mounts and bushings ($500)
SFC's (kenny brown or any triangulated design) ($250)
used LS6 intake ($350)
short shifter ($200)
Free mods
I dont know what that comes out to... But on average those are about what these can be had for. Doing your own work saves THE MOST MONEY, second is buying used parts instead of new.
the only things I would not buy used would be electronics or suspension bushings or mounts
Buy Used GMMG or stick with SLP dual/dual ($250-350)
Used flowtech or pacesetter LT's coated. ($250)
used lid ($80)
Fernco section at hardware store for "smooth belows" ($5)
p&p stock TB ($75 from people on this board)
32 or 33 MM front swaybar and puly bushings ($60-80)
Strut tower brace ($50)
LCA and adjustable panhard rod set with all poly mounts and bushings ($500)
SFC's (kenny brown or any triangulated design) ($250)
used LS6 intake ($350)
short shifter ($200)
Free mods
I dont know what that comes out to... But on average those are about what these can be had for. Doing your own work saves THE MOST MONEY, second is buying used parts instead of new.
the only things I would not buy used would be electronics or suspension bushings or mounts
Skip shift eliminator stops the tranny from forcing you to shift from 1-4 instead of 1-2 at low speeds/moderate driving. GM did this for gas mileage, but we don't like that feature around here
. Its a really good mod.
. Its a really good mod.
"with relocator brackets"
that's assuming you are looking for straight line traction.
if you want a good handling car on the street...i would suggest a thicker front sway bar, possibly rear as well.
i'm very pleased with my BMR 32/21mm solid bars. and i kknow alot of guys enjoy thier ST 35mm front bar
that's assuming you are looking for straight line traction.
if you want a good handling car on the street...i would suggest a thicker front sway bar, possibly rear as well.
i'm very pleased with my BMR 32/21mm solid bars. and i kknow alot of guys enjoy thier ST 35mm front bar
"with relocator brackets"
that's assuming you are looking for straight line traction.
if you want a good handling car on the street...i would suggest a thicker front sway bar, possibly rear as well.
i'm very pleased with my BMR 32/21mm solid bars. and i kknow alot of guys enjoy thier ST 35mm front bar
that's assuming you are looking for straight line traction.
if you want a good handling car on the street...i would suggest a thicker front sway bar, possibly rear as well.
i'm very pleased with my BMR 32/21mm solid bars. and i kknow alot of guys enjoy thier ST 35mm front bar
With the ride height stock and wanting to autocross, roadrace laps, or spirited street driving you can leave them in the stock hole.
Then if you decide that you want to see what your car willl do at the track you can, in 10 minutes time, drop them into the second or bottom hole and have maximum traction at the track.
And when you get the dough and decide on some lowering springs it's again 10 minutes to correct the LCA angle for the lowered ride height.
It's a very good first mod with the LCAs and subframe connectors.



