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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 07:35 PM
  #1  
yzblue125's Avatar
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New to the ls1 crowd!

Hey guys ive been posting on the Lt1 board for a while but traded in my 1997 z28 for a 1999 m6. just wondering on a 2000.00 dollar budget what are some good bolt on mods for the ls1 and what kind of h/p can i expect. The car is BONE stock(except for some good quality z rated rrubber.) !!
Thanks Matt
Old Nov 6, 2006 | 07:53 PM
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Sparkz28ss's Avatar
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From: ..behind you with a butter knife
Lid
Headers/exhaust
tune

and a cam
Old Nov 6, 2006 | 08:11 PM
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From: N Falmouth MA
Lid
LCA's
Magnaflow Catback -Great bang for the buck!!..
LS6 Intake
SHort stick... (ditch that Munster's Shifter!! -if you still have it)
P+P TB
Maybe a good set of SFC's

FREE MODS FTW!! (check my stickey... I have a write up in there about the free mods if you need it)
Old Nov 6, 2006 | 08:48 PM
  #4  
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yeah if I could redo all my mods with a 2000 dollar budget I'd do this:

Buy Used GMMG or stick with SLP dual/dual ($250-350)
Used flowtech or pacesetter LT's coated. ($250)
used lid ($80)
Fernco section at hardware store for "smooth belows" ($5)
p&p stock TB ($75 from people on this board)
32 or 33 MM front swaybar and puly bushings ($60-80)
Strut tower brace ($50)
LCA and adjustable panhard rod set with all poly mounts and bushings ($500)
SFC's (kenny brown or any triangulated design) ($250)
used LS6 intake ($350)
short shifter ($200)
Free mods

I dont know what that comes out to... But on average those are about what these can be had for. Doing your own work saves THE MOST MONEY, second is buying used parts instead of new.

the only things I would not buy used would be electronics or suspension bushings or mounts
Old Nov 6, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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3 basic routes to follow...

easier air in
easier exhaust out
power to the ground
Old Nov 6, 2006 | 09:28 PM
  #6  
yzblue125's Avatar
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Thanks for the quick responses!
Old Nov 6, 2006 | 09:33 PM
  #7  
yzblue125's Avatar
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ohh yea, i hear of people getting the skip shift elimintor? what does it eliminate? Thanks This car also has 88k on it, any good routine maintince you guys suggest.
Old Nov 6, 2006 | 11:01 PM
  #8  
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Skip shift eliminator stops the tranny from forcing you to shift from 1-4 instead of 1-2 at low speeds/moderate driving. GM did this for gas mileage, but we don't like that feature around here. Its a really good mod.
Old Nov 6, 2006 | 11:17 PM
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I say absolutely get some kind of upgraded shifter... I LOVE mine, the shifts are AWESOME. About 200, but totally worth it.
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 12:03 AM
  #10  
AL SS590 M6's Avatar
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I go backwards from the rest.
Subframe connectors first
then good LCAs with relocator brackets
Lid, headers, catback, LS6 intake, shifter, and a tune.
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 06:47 AM
  #11  
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From: US 1 Mile Marker 52 in the Florida Keys
"with relocator brackets"

that's assuming you are looking for straight line traction.

if you want a good handling car on the street...i would suggest a thicker front sway bar, possibly rear as well.

i'm very pleased with my BMR 32/21mm solid bars. and i kknow alot of guys enjoy thier ST 35mm front bar
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 11:22 AM
  #12  
AL SS590 M6's Avatar
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Originally Posted by teke184
"with relocator brackets"

that's assuming you are looking for straight line traction.

if you want a good handling car on the street...i would suggest a thicker front sway bar, possibly rear as well.

i'm very pleased with my BMR 32/21mm solid bars. and i kknow alot of guys enjoy thier ST 35mm front bar
No that's not the point at all. With the relocator brackets on the car from the start you can run the LCAs in any of three positions depending upon what you have in mind.
With the ride height stock and wanting to autocross, roadrace laps, or spirited street driving you can leave them in the stock hole.
Then if you decide that you want to see what your car willl do at the track you can, in 10 minutes time, drop them into the second or bottom hole and have maximum traction at the track.
And when you get the dough and decide on some lowering springs it's again 10 minutes to correct the LCA angle for the lowered ride height.

It's a very good first mod with the LCAs and subframe connectors.
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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ok....point taken


what is it about the brackets that make the low mounting hole a bad choice for a "cornering setup"??
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 11:47 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by teke184
ok....point taken


what is it about the brackets that make the low mounting hole a bad choice for a "cornering setup"??
The LCAs need to be level for the best braking and during hard side loads to keep the rear tires planted in the twisties.
Old Nov 8, 2006 | 02:01 PM
  #15  
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Welcome to a SERIOUSLY upgraded motor.

Please try the fish and change your sig




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