New 99 Z28, where to start?
Re: New 99 Z28, where to start?
I, for one, am totally AGAINST the stroker idea vs the blower idea because I've had both.
The stroker is going to be MUCH less daily-driveable and get worse fuel mileage compared to the Forced Indution motor. Big cam with lots of overlap = bad city gas mileage.
My FI car, on the other hand drives/idles like stock and will obliterate most things on the road while getting 20 mpg city and 27 mpg highway with 3.73s and an auto. My heads/cam C5 got around 14 city and 25-26 highway and that was with a 6-speed! My 396 LT1 got around 11/23. The supercharger has been on my car for over 3 years. Also, I make peak power at 6000 rpm, where you have to spin a heads/cam car or stroker motor to 6800+ rpm. Also, a 346ci forced induction motor will make tons of torque lower than a stroker motor even at low boost. Have you ever seen a 383 or 402 make 400 rwtq at 3500 rpm? I haven't. Also, most NA LS1s turn on at 4000+ rpm. This one turns on at 3000 rpm. Once you go FI, you will NEVER want to go back to NA.
The benefits of going FI are endless.
I'd do this:
ATI Procharger (either P1SC or D1SC)
AFR 205cc big CC heads to lower compression
LS6 intake manifold
Cam w/less than 5 degrees overlap on a 114 LSA (possibly something like mine or a little bigger in duration)
High Flow Fuel Pump 255lph
42 or 50# injectors (you may have to upgrade later if you decide to up the boost)
LT headers, exhaust, etc...all supporting mods
EASILY over 500 rwhp (somewhere between 525-600 rwhp) on the stock pulley.
Take my car for example....I'm on the stock pulley, stock TB, small 2.5" exhaust, 38# injectors, etc. If I wanted to, I could gain 100 rwhp with a pulley change and racegas, but it's plenty fast...for now..

Mike
The stroker is going to be MUCH less daily-driveable and get worse fuel mileage compared to the Forced Indution motor. Big cam with lots of overlap = bad city gas mileage.
My FI car, on the other hand drives/idles like stock and will obliterate most things on the road while getting 20 mpg city and 27 mpg highway with 3.73s and an auto. My heads/cam C5 got around 14 city and 25-26 highway and that was with a 6-speed! My 396 LT1 got around 11/23. The supercharger has been on my car for over 3 years. Also, I make peak power at 6000 rpm, where you have to spin a heads/cam car or stroker motor to 6800+ rpm. Also, a 346ci forced induction motor will make tons of torque lower than a stroker motor even at low boost. Have you ever seen a 383 or 402 make 400 rwtq at 3500 rpm? I haven't. Also, most NA LS1s turn on at 4000+ rpm. This one turns on at 3000 rpm. Once you go FI, you will NEVER want to go back to NA.

The benefits of going FI are endless.
I'd do this:
ATI Procharger (either P1SC or D1SC)
AFR 205cc big CC heads to lower compression
LS6 intake manifold
Cam w/less than 5 degrees overlap on a 114 LSA (possibly something like mine or a little bigger in duration)
High Flow Fuel Pump 255lph
42 or 50# injectors (you may have to upgrade later if you decide to up the boost)
LT headers, exhaust, etc...all supporting mods
EASILY over 500 rwhp (somewhere between 525-600 rwhp) on the stock pulley.
Take my car for example....I'm on the stock pulley, stock TB, small 2.5" exhaust, 38# injectors, etc. If I wanted to, I could gain 100 rwhp with a pulley change and racegas, but it's plenty fast...for now..

Mike
Last edited by Kraest; Jun 17, 2006 at 09:59 AM.
Re: New 99 Z28, where to start?
Also, you're going to have to build the transmission eventually no matter what you go with. The 4L60E isn't known to handle power very well on the stock internals. It'll hold alot more with some redline bands, kevlar clutches, billet servos, Beast sunshell, increased pressure controlled via the computer, etc. 
Also, I'd go with at LEAST a 2400 stall (like I have). I'd rather a 3000+, but I'm not going to change it now
Mike

Also, I'd go with at LEAST a 2400 stall (like I have). I'd rather a 3000+, but I'm not going to change it now

Mike
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