Ported MAF ends and descreening on the LS1 is a big no-no. They can be even more of a problem than an aftermarket MAF.

 

It may be the car or the driver.
At this point its hard to tell.

I have seen a bad driver pull a full second off his 1/4 mile time just by being trained to launch properly. (Case in point was a 17yr old driving a then new Mach 1.. He started off running 14.1's then after about 5 trips to the track in 1 month and learning how to do it right, he repeated 13.1's...)

So.. How are you launching?
Whats your technique in detail.. How high are you revving? Are you dumping the clutch or feathering it? I wouldnt expect high MPH with the 4.10s but I do expect a hugh gain in et..
Whats the air pressure in your tires? Are you doing dry spins or going for burnouts?

All these things matter so its good to let us know so we can help guide you to quicker times!

 

That was with the stock suspension and a 6600 RPM clutch dump on 27" ET streets. Only suspension mods were boxed in (welded OEM) LCAs. This was also in 85* south louisiana humid air. Every upshift was at WOT but using the clutch. Be advised, this is also a GREAT way to tear your car up. ET/MPH will be improved, but I only recommend this if you can fix it WHEN you tear it up.

Again @ 313rwhp. Full weight daily driver still getting 26mph on the interstate with 4.10s.

Ben T.

 

I took my 2000 SS M6 down the track at the beginning of October and ran 14.07@102.???. The stock 3:23 gears, stock tires, freemods, K&N, and ZO6 clutch. It was back in october 69 degrees. Spun the hell out of 2nd. for about 40ft. staying in the hole time. Even put it some what side ways. Oh, and launched at 3 grand.

 

Lid, Loudmouth, Yank 3500, 3.42 gears, 26" ET streets with 312 rwhp 12.15 @ 110 in a full weight (3600 pounds with me in the car) complete street car.

 

STR for the win, Al.

Ben T.

 

DIDn't know that.... I guess if I get tune I would see it.

I am just concerned with the lose of ET .4-.5 10ths is alot to me...

the MPH i guess could be from the gears.

 

I hope you can help... I am thinking right NOW MAC MIDs and ORY to get rid of the bad front cats... and SLP ram air and bellows... then get a dyno tune

 

NICE...

I hope my LSx C3 runs that fast... I am guessing high 12s

346 out of 2000 vette
stock 6.0 heads
comp cam 224 581/581
edelbrock carb intake
680 DP holley
covette manifolds
2.5 MAD chambered dual exhaust
TH350 auto
hughes 10in 3000 stall
factory IRS with 3.36 gears

 

Power shifting = staying on the gas while you shift. So unless I've misunderstood your explanation, you are powershifting.

 

I use the clutch, to fully engage it... my understand is people slip the clutch when they powershift... thus running the risk of clutch or transmission failure...

I speed shift... not powershift.

just my .02

 

All of the descriptions I've read/heard of powershifting say that you should push the clutch in just enough to disengage (i.e. don't push all the way to the floor).

Not sure what exactly you mean by "slip the clutch" in the context of changing gears under power. Can you elaborate?

 

Types of shifting
First, let’s talk about three different types of shifting and show the progression from slow and easy to fast and, umm, nope- we won’t go there.

Granny Shifting
When we first learn about the mysteries of the manual transmission and that third little pedal on the left we all heard something like this- “Ok-wiggle the stick and make sure it is in neutral, gently push in the clutch all the way, carefully push the stick into first gear and slowly release the clutch and give it a little gas.” This would result in one of two outcomes- a hard lurch and stall or almost no perceptible forward motion and the sweet odor of burning clutch accompanied by shouts of “Let it out! Let it out!” Once the car actually moved in first you would repeat the process for each successive gear shifting as high as 3000 rpm and letting off the gas between shifts. With practice you could do this smoothly and even quickly, conjuring visions of Dan Gurney blasting down the Mulsanne straight.

Today, we politely call this process Granny shifting- guaranteed to prolong the life of both transmission and clutch and not raise any eyebrows with your local patrol officers.

Speed Shifting
If you are reading this then you assuredly moved on to the next stage, which we call Speed Shifting. Once you had a taste of a couple of stoplight acceleration contests you realized that the time spent between shifts was wasted, especially if you went up against an automatic, or worse, an auto with a shift kit. With each shift your opponent would gain a small advantage. With practice, you can click off really quick speed shifts by slightly lifting off the throttle with your right foot at the same time you stab the clutch with your left foot and slam the stick into the next gear with you right hand (or left, for those Down-Under and other such exotic places.) Now there is very little loss of acceleration between shifts and you can hang with your buddy’s automatic.

Spending some time at the track helps to refine the technique and prepares you for the final stage in shifting evolution- Power Shifting!


Power Shifting
Ever listen a manual car down the race track? You can tell the good drivers from the not so good simply by the sound of the engine at each shift.

The Granny Shifters sound like this- Waaaaaaaaa! -moment of silence- Wuh, Waaaaaaaaa!

The good Speed Shifters sound like this- Waaaaaaa !-tiny delay- Waaaaaaaa! With less rpm drop the engine does not bog down going into the next gear- you might even hear a good Bark! from the rear tires.

The Power Shifters sound like this Waaaaaaa! WHAA! Waaaaaaa! WHAA! Waaaaaa! WHAA! Waaaaa! and bark the tires in all gears (unless on slicks.) The rpms not only don’t drop- they actually go up between shifts since the throttle is wide open the whole time!

How to Powershift
The Power Shift Shuffle goes something like this- the gas pedal goes to the floor and stays there- never lift! Preload the stick by pulling on it before you reach your shift point. At the pivotal moment simultaneously KICK the clutch pedal and slam the stick into the next gear. Time it right and you will see the rpms climb 200 to 500 rpm between gears and feel a strong surge as the next gear engages. I started power shifting only the 3 to 4 shift my last track day of 2001. It is the easiest shift, straight back, with time to prepare mentally while 3rd winds out. I was able to knock off a pair of 13.50 runs that day and go home grinning from ear to ear. It was time to go to the next level and see if I could actually improve on those mid-13’s.

 

http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/essenti...e/shifting.htm

 

power shift defined

This is an advanced technique that gives a speed boost to the car when upshifting. This should only be used in racing applications (and probably only in very short races), as it is very hard on drivetrain components, especially if done improperly. Even done properly, it generally puts undue stress on the drivetrain, and shortens the lifespan of the driveline components.

To perform a power shift, keep the gas pedal on the floor (instead of lifting) while pushing in the clutch. At the same time, quickly shift to the next gear. Quickly re-engage ("pop") the clutch as soon as the new gear is selected. If done properly, the car will receive a "bump" in acceleration (due to the jerk of the decelerating engine) as the clutch is re-engaged. If done improperly, it can result in engine or transmission damage, sometimes catastrophic