TEA 5.3l Stage-2.5 Heads
MS3 CAM
Dual Springs
Fast 92 Ported-Intake
Vengeance 92mm Ported-TB
Fuel Rails
42lb flow-matched Lucas Injectors
LS7 lifters
HD timing Chain
Hardend Push-rods
LS6 Valley
Hooker Super-COMP Ceramic Coated LTs
No Cats/ EGR delete
3" ORY
QTP Electric Cut-out
Flow Master Exhaust
Lid
160 stat
150-SHOT NX WET KIT
Mickey Thompson ET
and of course no car is complete with out some "Free-mods."



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_bcKkkZML8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gm8KLSAHV9o

 

Damn EFI Alchemy's new setup is nice! I also got my car tuned down there last year, Doc is a genius and they do an excellent job.

You have pretty much the same setup i have minus nitrous, how much did you put down? It looks like you tried to post a picture but it didn't work.

 

Sadly, 440/400 heads/cam/intake isn't all that great for a giant cam like the MS3 (237/242 @ .050"), especially when you're giving up alot of drivability and mid-range for dyno numbers -- this is coming from someone who had a FMS F-15 (236/239) on a heads/cam setup and made 30rwhp/16rwtq more than you on an old FAST 90/90 and unported Dart 225s when they first came out 5 years ago.

The MS3 is way too much cam for a heads/cam 346 IMO.

They display pretty bad low-end below 4000-4500 rpm.... I think I remember seeing a dyno sheet of around 350rwtq on a PRC 2.5/MS3 heads/cam car below 4000 (which peaks at 4500-5000) and 350rwhp below 4500.

The car probably won't be fast unless you're either roll-racing it from 4500-5000 rolls or put a serious gear out back if you're going from a full quarter mile. Honestly, that cam will work better with a loose converter in an auto where you never see below 3000-4000 rpm. It's pretty much like driving a 2-stroke... nothing down low, lots up high in the powerband.

 

Doc was a great help, you definatly need to see his new place. The drive ability is very nice. The car made 440rwhp/400rwtq at6100rpm and the numbers were still climbing. I chose a safe tune for now. The car is a sixspeed.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtO9z...layer_embedded

 

Not bad numbers with a "safe" tune, mine is got a mild tune. I have a much smaller cam than you (TSP 231/234) and i put down 450, they were messing around with timing and other crap and at one point they had it up to 460hp or so but that was pushing it, my FAST setup gave me close to 30rwhp, not too bad IMO. I have to agree with what Kraest said, that is a monster of a cam for that setup, did Doc at EFI say anything about it? Also did he show you his 9 second Z28 that he drives daily? That car is a beast and it runs pretty damn smooth for all the power he's got.

 

If you're only going to rev it to 6300-6400 and your tune looks to be pretty rich at 12:1, then you could have gone with a much different cam. One of the TSP Torquer cams would have been a much better idea.

But that's just hindsight. Enjoy your new ride

 

I was thinking the same thing about you regarding the 440/400. Even the other guy with 450rwhp seems low. Aftermarket fully worked heads, aftermarket intake and a big cam and these guys are only putting down 440-450? Hell, you can send you STOCK LT1 heads to LE and get pretty close to those numbers. I know you have had a lot of success with you builds as far as dyno numbers go, but from what I usually see, your numbers are higher than most.

 

Ive seen Docs car. Me and him have know each other for a while now. But that car is a crazy beast.

I understand where yall are going with the numbers but I ended up doing things alittle backwards. I did the top end before the bottom end. I plan on forging the bottom end so that I can take the car to the next level and not rev it to just 6100rpm. I still have 6 months in Iraq to do the bottom end suspenstion and transmission.

 

In his defense, he didn't rev it high enough.

I believe Johnny6 has an LS6 intake still -- he's giving up about 10-15rwhp by not using a FAST setup.

They heads that they are using are ported stock LS1/LS6 heads. I used aftermarket Dart 225s.

My setups are run on a Dynojet 248 (not a 224) at Futral Motorsports -- tuning is key, and I believe that Allan is the best in the country and squeezing power out of LSx platforms -- even his LTx stuff is mean as *****, but he never really showcases those.

 

You don't need to have a forged bottom end to rev high. The rods/pistons/crank are good for 6500-6800 no problem with the newer style rod bolts.

 

At 6800 rpm it should be okay? I was told that was still to much strain to put on the stock bottom end.

 

I'd set the rev limiter at 6800 and shift a car with that cam at LEAST 6500.

I've had 2 stock-bottom end LS1s that I've revved over 6500 rpm (both for well over a year before I sold them and bought a new car) without a hiccup.

Put it this way:
The LS1/LS6 rods/crank/pistons are 100% INTERCHANGABLE AND 95% SIMILAR (the pistons use very very slightly different material -- negligible) and the LS6 makes peak power at 6500 rpm. I think my stock rev limiter on my CTS-V is around 6600 or so SET BY GM.

Make sense now?

 

What kind of LTX results has this guy seen?

 

Anything you could imagine

 

Forging isn't necessary. For some cheap insurance, just put in some ARP rod bolts. Most people that spin up around 7000+ go that route, and have no problems. I see 7000rpm every time I drive my car with a stock bottom end with just some ARP rod bolts. That cam and intake should peak around 6700-6800rpm.

Furthermore, that dyno is in STD correction. In SAE, which is generally accepted as the benchmark, puts you around high 420s power wise. Judging by that graph, power looked like it would peak around 6200-6300rpm, which means you've got some work to do - it ain't right.

Why does EFI Alchemy scale HP and TQ differently? That's unnecessary at your power level.