z28rktec

I'm due for an oil change and keep thinking if I should switch to Mobil 1. I have about 15k on my '01 Z28 and have been putting regular 10w 30 mobil in so far. I'm wondering if there are true advantages to shelling out about $4 more a quart, that adds up! I know what some are thinking...take care of your baby, use it! If its worth it I would like to. Thanks.

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'01 Z28 - loaded
K&N FIPK
Corsa

Frank99'z-28

mobil 1 is in my engine and i thing it is worth it hey man y chance it the chevey dealer recomends it and its in the corvettesand other camaros i no it adds up but have you looked at the cost of fixing engines and replacing them a gm ls-1 long block is $6600.00 i think if it came down to it i would rather put so good stuf in it
but thats my opinion

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99' Chevy Camaro Z-28
-K&N F.I.P.I.K.
-Eibach 1.5" drop kit
-SLP LM exhaust
-neon on the floorboards
- Looking for a turbo setup, any tips hit me up bushmaster200021666@yahoo.com

LapeerZ28

Wallmart has a 5 quart bottle of Mobil 1 for 17.88. Save a couple of bucks and mod away.

z28rktec

Do you use a different filter with mobil 1? sorry, I know nothing about synthetic. What are advantages, I have read it increases pressure.

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'01 Z28 - loaded
K&N FIPK
Corsa

StreetSharkZ'02

BTW don't you think you should use 5w-30 in the LS1 anyway? what's nice about synthetic is that it will last 6,000 miles so it realy doesn't cost a lot more. the manual says plain Mobil 1 (non-synthetic)is fine. performance wise if your not racing professionaly i don't think it makes a difference.

[This message has been edited by StreetSharkZ'02 (edited June 08, 2002).]

RadarRunner

I'm going to go with synthetic since that seems to be the majority consensus, but will go with Castrol 10w30.

I've been running Castrol 20/50 in my 1985 Honda motorcycle, & am coming up on 84,000 miles now, as well as having used it in my 1987 Z28 without problems in either one.

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1987 Z28 (305 LG-4, 4bbl 5-speed Black & Silver . . .
Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner
4th Gen Seats
& 2002 WS6 TransAm . . .
NRA/AMA/FOP/IUPA/Blue Knights

z28rktec

Facts seem hard to come by. Reading Mobil's own site pretty much calls regular oil crap filled with unrefined minerals etc. Is it really this bad? I change my oil every 3000, and when I do its very dirty! I should probably do it more often. I would think this is where the value is. Keep clean oil running through your block. Syn. is suppose to last longer? I am very confused...I must be missing something

JimMueller

Read a lot on LS1Tech.com which indicates Mobil 1's recent reformulations are worse than the previous version. The 30 weights are shearing to a 20 weight after a few thousand miles. I've blindly followed the Mobil 1 synthetic clan since day one. I just swapped to Royal Purple 10W30 and want to see how it affects my oil consumption.

RP was $6.50/qt, and I saw Redline 10W30 advertised for $7.50/qt. I stuck with the M1-206 filter. Even though some are running 5W30 in hot climates, most think 10W30 is preferable.

You don't need a different filter for synthetic. I've heard the best things about K&N, Mobil1, and UltraGuard Gold, in no particular order.

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1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - Navy Blue Metallic 6-speed
Best 60'/ET/MPH: 1.95/12.33/115.06, before LS6 intake.
SAE DynoJet: 402HP, 378TQ [366/344 before intake].
Power Mods: FTRA, FRA, FRA2, K&N 33-2118, Whisper Lid, Whisper MAF Ends, TB Bypass, BBK 80mm TB, LS6 intake manifold, CNC cylinder Heads 2.02/1.57, Comp Cams 218/226 527/535 112, NGK TR55's @ .045, Grotyohann headers/Y-Pipe/CarSound cats, Flowtech 3" cutout, base Ed Wright tuning, SPEC Stage II clutch.
Other Mods: 275/40/17 tires on Michelin Pilot Sport(F), Bridgestone Pole Position(R), Enkei Win wheels, Hotchkis PHR/STB/LCA's, Addco 32/21mm F/R sywabars, Powerslot rotors, Hawk Plus brake pads, Stainless brake lines.
Delayed: Wide-band tuning at Ed Wright's shop
In storage: 4 Koni DA shocks, waiting for me to pick an adj. coilover spring setup
Someday: MTI crank pulley, GM Superior 3.73 gears, TA cover, Pro 5.0 shifter w/ Lou's short stick, Carbon fiber driveshaft, tuned suspension from Global West, calibrated 200MPH speedometer.

mmoceri

The info, following my post, is from www.ls1.com . There is some really good info in the FAQ section, there. I've seen questions here regarding things from break in period, to specs, performance, etc. They have allot of good info and stuff there.

Just click on the FAQ icon, there. It's at the top of the home page. Then, just scroll way down and find what you're looking for. Again, www.ls1.com .Good Luck, Mark

Section 2 - Fluids and fluid filters
Question 2-1: What kind of oil should I use?

Answer: Most people on here prefer Mobil 1 synthetic, as it offers better protection than regular oil, is easy to find and not too expensive. Other good (although more expensive) synthetics are Redline and Amsoil.
_________________________

Question 2-2: How often should I change my oil?

Answer: This question can stir up a lot of controversy, but most people will agree that you can typically go up to 6000 miles on synthetic oil, or about 3-4 months. Don't go much longer than 3-4 months on any type of oil, as the more cold starts you make, the more contaminents you introduce into the oil (mainly blowby gases). Oil change requirements generally vary with driving style and conditions.
_________________________

Question 2-3: What viscosity oil should I use?

Answer: GM recommends 5w30, but 10w30 is also allowed. If you live in an area that gets above 100F a lot in the summer, and doesn't go below 40-50F in the winter, then use 10w30 all year round. If you live in an area that doesn't get above 90F much in the summer, and stays colder than 30F in the winter, then use 5w30 all year round.
_________________________

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2002 SS, Coupe,M6,with Hurst Shifter, SLP Dual/Dual Exhaust, Bilstein Suspension,SLP Ram Air Box,Rally Red, T-Tops,Black Leather,SLP SS Grill & 5 Spoke Chrome SS Wheels. Best time 12.998 @ 108.267

Jay3274bbl

I use Royal Purple and I love the stuff ! I can feel the difference in the car (no more burning oil, feels smoother). I get it from http://www.oiltownusa.com

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Jason

67 Camaro 327 bored 30
Holley, TCI,'Glide,MSD, TRW, 12 bolt, 4.56
gears; all the goodies !

Daily Driver
98 Z28 NBM A4.
Whisper Lid, TByrne MAF ends, Holley filter

Memeber nyfe.net

bitchin-ta

I use Mobil-1 5w-30 in the winter and Mobil-1 10w-30 in the summer. I haven't really had any problems with oil consumption especially considering I race it quite a bit. I use about one quart every 3-4 thousand miles. Not too bad for and LS1 these days.

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2000 WS-6 TA with an M6,
K&N,Borla cat back with cut out

stik6shift98

fully synthetic or synthetic blend????

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1998 Black Camaro Z-28
6 speed pro 5.o shifter
BMR Subframe connectors
BMR strut tower brace
BMR Rear Control Arms
BMR AdjustablePanhard Bar
Baer Eradispeed Rotors
on all 4 wheels
nitto drag radials
air lid
K&N Filter
fast toys ram air
Mass Air Flow Sensor
Slp Loudmouth Exhaust
Dvd with screen
Tinted Windows(now just rear windshield)
star spec stage 3 ceramic clutch
LS6 flywheel

Ran 13.398 with shi*ty stock bald tires havnt run with the nittos yet

Doing some mods but at 16 life is hard

z28rktec

I wasn't sure of a difference. I am beginning to think plain old oil changed on a regular basis is fine. Oh stik, how do you like your bmr....I'm looking into a STB, good move?

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'01 Z28 - loaded
K&N FIPK
Corsa

Btchslp

I few very important factors about synthetic oil vs regular oil.

1. Synthetic oil absorbs heat from the motor better than regular, to the tune of about 10 degrees across the operating range.
Advantage - Synthetic

2. Synthetic oil takes longer to breakdown than regular oil. Under normal load conditions Mobil 1 doesn't start to breakdown before 10,000 miles, thus preserving the viscosity.
Advantage - Synthetic

3. Synthetic oil lubricates better than regular oil. Synthetic oil is controlled much better and contains better additives for cleaning and lubricating.
Advantage - Synthetic

4. Synthetic oil can be run for longer periods, 5000-7000 miles are typical, thus evening out the cost as compared to regular oil. That means less time per year changing your oil. How much is an hour of your time worth?
Advantage - Synthetic

A few other commments were made that are erroneous. The oil does not need to be changed every 3-4 months, if under a year, time plays no role in oil degradation.
Also, for hotter climates 10W is fine, the "W" refers to the vicosity at 0 degrees celcius (winter conditions) so in hot climates 5W or 10W makes no difference.


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99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, loudmouth
ported MAFs

z28rktec

thanks Btchslp! I was looking for some cold hard facts for why to shift to Syn. From what you just said I don't know why you wouldn't use it. Thanks