Brian, 40rwhp from LTs, Y and a catback (full exhaust) over stock?
Yeah, that's probably pretty close.
I thought you were saying a 40rwhp gain on a car with a catback already (and maybe a Y). IOW, 40rwhp from just headers.


However, I still don't think an LT1 responds to mods much, if any better than an LS1.

Stock M6 LT1: 250rwhp, give or take.
A basically full bolt-on M6 LT1: 300rwhp, give or take.

Stock M6 LS1: 315rwhp, give or take.
Full bolt-on M6 LS1: 360rwhp, give or take.

IMO, those are about average numbers for each...so that's about a 50rwhp gain for the LT1 and a 45rwhp gain for the LS1. Too close to say one is better than the other.

If you don't agree, that's cool. This is just my opinion on the silly subject of which one is better.

I've owned one of each and can say they are both great motors.

 

Devon, you're gonna need an A4.

The M6 isn't too far behind though, I think it's an 11.5 (2 diff. cars @ 11.5) but one is running 121 traps. I think those A4s are trapping like 117-119.

 

I think the LS1's resond better to "Air flow improvement" mods such as Headers, Lid, filter etc. Reason being is the superior LS1 heads. They flow much better than the Lt1 heads.


As far as which one to get LT1 or LS1, well it all really depends. I was in the same situation as you about 2 years ago. But I couldnt handle the payments of the $4000-$5000 more LS1 with the job i had. So I got the 95 TA i had been looking at with low low miles. Few months later and $1000 less in my pocket I pulled a car on my friends 99 m6 Z28 with just a Loudmouth catback from 30mph-120mph. So if speed is what your comparing then add $1000 or so (if you install you own parts) to the price of a 94-95 or so LT1 and then compare it to the LS1 you were looking at price.

Ok here is a little comparison. I just went to Carmax's website and compared some prices.

-00 m6 Z28 w/47k miles = $15,998 + $500 for catback and lid= low 13's at 105-108mph in the 1/4 mile (although you could get a ringer and run low 13's at 108mph stock)

-95 m6 Z28 w/57k miles= $6,899 +$1000-$1300 for full exhaust and CAI and some free mods = low 13's at 105-107mph in the 1/4 mile

Total price for each car that goes the same speed in the 1/4 mile =00 Z28 $16,498..............................95 Z28 $8,099

As far as dependability goes, it all depends too. Like with me. I got my car the same time as my friend got his 00 Z28 and just last month he sold his car because he was having to many problems with it. Mine is still running strong (knock on wood). I think they are both equal in dependability. Ls1 might edge it out a tad because of build differences in ex optispark etc.

Well there you go. Of course with the extra $9000 left over from buying the 95 you could use it on mods and run 10's in the 1/4. Basically all depends on what you like best out of the comparisons. Hell if you wanted to go the even cheaper route, buy the LT1 and a 100shot of n20 for about $500-$600. While were at it just by a 89 5.0 Stang for $1500 and run 10's with the leftover money, hehehehehe just kiddin.

 

If $$ is a big concern, go with the LT1. They are excellent performers stock, especially down low, and the mods are generally cheaper that the same for an LS1. Plus the money you save on the initial purchase can be put toward performance. Having said that, the LS1 is a fantastic engine. Easy to work on, responds great to basic mods like intake and exhaust and has already proved itself as a track terror.

 

I don't agree with that at all. Wish i had a sound clip of my C5.. Thinking about pulling out the Loudmouth for the Borla Stinger's... They sound amazing.

If you are all concerned with is Track times.. take a look in my sig of what i pulled bone stock... Ofcourse.. This is a C5 but F-Body LS1's pull similar numbers.

 

Go with the LS1 I did and I have no regrets

 

Id say hold out and Find a nice Ls1 If i had all the mods i put into the Lt1 I would be killin em

 

FWIW my bolt on m6 put down 320rwhp........no cam, heads, rr's or any thing. just exhaust, intake, tune, pulley, TB and CSI wp.
brian

 

Keep in mind that the Ls1 cars have many clutch problems. They also get the weaker t56 tranny (tremec, built in mexico) instead of the trusty borg-warner t56s in the Lt1 cars. Piston-slap is also common along with burning 1-2 quarts of oil in 3k miles. Trust me, the Ls1 hp glory comes at a price. Ive owned 2 of them.

 

An older, cheaper car was always be the better buy when it comes to ultimate performance. $6000 LT1+$6000mods beats a $12000 LS1. But, IMO the most important thing about these cars is to get a stong running one. Some cars are just don't like mods much while others are gain freaky amounts of power. Make sure you test any used car well before buying.

Both cars begin to even out as the $$$$ for mods increases. As for engines alone, the LS1 has the LT1 beat in the mild to mid mod level hands down.

 

320 * .15 = 368

just exhaust, intake, tune, pulley, TB and CSI wp.

If you gained like 60hp off of that, your car is like major factory freak My 94 t/a has a tb, edelbrock headers, pulley, cai, 1.6 rr's, tune, borla w/ no cats and made 296rwhp on open headers. I thought these numbers were freakish. Granted you are rated a few more hp from the factory, i don't think 60hp from those mods is anywhere near average.. Usually the TB isn't even worth more than a few hp on highly modified cars. Ditto w/ the muffler. Course all my mods on the lt1 still didn't reach my 308rwhp dyno on my ls1.. and 315rwhp with a lid Anyways.. grats.. I am envious


-Josh

 

thanks man, i figured it was average and the gains make sense to me. FLP's are much better IMO than edelbrocks on the sheer fact that they are long tubes, and you feed long tubes power and they keep givin it back to ya. the catback i have is also one of the freest flowing. seems to me round here my numbers were right on compared to others with similar numbers. oh well who knows, cant go wrong either way.
brian

 

I had both an LT1 and an LS1 and can definitely vouch for that statement. When I purchased the LS1 I actually thought my LT1 was the faster vehicle because of the low-end torque. I quickly realized that the LS1 makes its peak power higher in the RPM band. Now with 10,000 Miles of LS1 driving I am happy with my choice.

 

The ls1's DO take breathing mods better because of the heads. N/A a c5 with a cam package and bolt ons is running 10's.

I think the C5's sound better then the 98+ fbodies. Why? X pipe and factory "duals" vs the fbody. Better exhaust. Not to mention they look Awesome.

The Lt1's powerband is better down low, and is peaky. With bolt ons though, you can increase performance on the Lt1's top end. When my 95' was stock the power just fell flat after 5000rpm with a clogged cat and need of a tune, now with intake/exhaust and an electric pump, the power dosent cut off at all.

If you can afford it, screw a fbody. Get a c5 If not, I still say the lt1 fbodies are a great choice as for what I said before.

And the Ls1 cars, suprisingly with 300lb less under the hood, the car does NOT weigh 300lb less then an Lt1. It DOES however, have better weight distribution by a little bit.

 

look for a 94-95 LT1 Z28. these are the best years to buy because of the computer(obd1) and the optispark system is better. anyway, these can be found for under $6,000 in great shape. an auto LT1 with a nice stall(3,200-3,600), good tune,and full exhaust will run right with a LS1. and u will save money becaue the car itself is so cheap. JMO. plus LT1= TORQUE!!!