if nitrous doesn't distribute evenly it will not lead to problems other than a miss...

 

hell yes. But i dont use one since i have an automatic... If you hit your rev limiter and your fuel cuts off and your motor is just getting nitrous and no fuel it will *** your motor up.. My friend manually shifted his auto all the time on nitrous and was forvever on the rev limiter and finially one day messed up one of his cylinders. But a window switch will cut off the nitrous at whatever RPM you set it to, like your stock rev limiter is set at 6200rpms, you can set your nitrous to cut off at 6100 to be safe....

 

A couple things here...
A window switch will not save your motor if you miss a shift. It will cut off the nitrous, but may be too late to save your pushrods and valvetrain (Like a N/A missed shift). A window switch will help prevent you from spraying too soon on a wet kit, which can prevent a nitrous backfire.
A wet kit or dry kit will distribute nitrous the same unless it is a direct-port. You will always have some difference in cylinders because of the intake manifold design. Plus, the intake was never designed to flow anything besides air (another cause for nitrous backfires).
Having said that, I still stand behind the wet kits as being an excellent and safe way to make big power. Ben

 

One thing to remember with a dry kit.....you CAN lock up your injectors. When you add the nitrous the pcm adjusts by adding more fuel....the more nitrous the more fuel need obviously. Might wanna think about aftermarket fuel pump/injectors.

Joe

 

But how does the PCM detect the nitrous????

 

Not a nitrous guy but one thing it does detect is the increased airflow.

Joe

 

Nitrous does not increase airflow.. it increase available oxygen

 

That's another reeason I like the wet kit, it doesn't just reply on the stock injectors and PCM to add more fuel.
Highlander: this is just a guess, but maybe the O2 sensors tell the PCM to adjust the injectors? I know the Venom nitrous kit taps into the O2 sensors...

 

I think the venom and other same type kits use the o2's to shut off the nitrous in case of a lean condition....pretty crappy I know.

Joe

 

Depending on the type of car dry kit get fuel a couple of diffrent ways. On an LT1 or any other car with a return style fuel system it uses a mechanical nitrous regulator to increase fuel pressure when the nitrous kit is acctivated. Just like an FMU on a supercharger or turbo. On non return style cars like LS1's new Mustangs and other cars it gets fuel a few diffrent ways. LS1's use the MAF sensor. The Mustangs use an enrichment controller that splices into the factory fuel pressure sensor. Dry kits are harder to do on non return style fuel systems but can still be done.

 

Isn't there a way to make the injectors actually pulse more???? The MAF sensor is a way of doing it though...

 

sorry I didn't see...are you thinking of a nitrous kit, or do you have one already? Reason I ask is, you should seriously think about a brake upgrade as well, and a D/S loop...brakes because the stock ones will fade fast at the end of your run (learned that one real fast, you really only need to replace the front ones) and a D/S loop because, well, it is just a dern good idea for anyone...

 

I have the C5s up front now...

and I am not thinking of N20 for now... I was just curious..

 

I am considering running nitrous, I am new to the consept of N20 I was planning on buy the dry kit From NOS but mabey I should look at a wet kit. What system do you suggest? also what other components would I need to complet a wet kit instalation Fuel pump? ignition? etc...?

 

You know what guys.....this would be ALOT better answered by the guys in the nitrous forum. They are the most knowledgeable on the board.

Joe