this is a list of what i would like to do to my car, links included for easier viewing of what it is, along with pricing

looking for -
- better pricing
- different ideas for any specific area
- other ideas

in the suspension, i have a optional, 2 or 3 point strut tower brace, is it worth the extra $$ to go for 3 point?


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~ Suspension ~~~ 1746.60 - 1796.60 ++ shipping
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Running - 1746.60 - 1796.60 ++ shipping
-- Sway Bars --
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/bmrswaybar19.html
BMR Front 32mm Sway Bar (1982-2002 F-Body)
$186.95
BMR Rear 21mm Sway Bar (1982-2002 F-Body)
$179.95
come with Prothane mounting bushings and endlink kits

-- Panhard Rods --
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/bmrpanrod19c.html
BMR Panhard Rods (1982-2002 Camaro / Firebird)
$99.95

-- Relocation Bracket --
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/bmrtoarmreki.html
BMR Torque Arm Relocation Kit (98-02 F-Body)
$249.95

-- Strut Tower Brace -- (2 point? 3 point (add $50)? - big difference?)
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/bmrthirgenfb.html
BMR Strut Tower Brace (1982-1992 Camaro / Firebird)
$109.95

-- Subframe Connectors -- (weld on)
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/bmrsubcon4th.html
BMR Subframe Connectors (1993-2002 Camaro / Firebird)
$149.95 (Convertible +$30)

--Adjustable Torque Arm --
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/bmradtorarmc.html
BMR Adjustable Torque Arm (1982-2002, Camaro / Firebird)
TA001 $329.95

-- Anti-Rollbar --
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/bmrxtremdutd.html
BMR Xtreme Duty Drag Rear Anti-Rollbar (F-Body)
$399.95

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~ Transmission ~~~ 377.85 ++ shipping
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Running - 2124.45 - 2174.45 ++ shipping
-- Shift Kit --
http://www.lmperformance.com/2006/1.html
B&M Shift Improver Kit 94-02
$34.95

-- Differential Cover --
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/drivac.html
Differential Cover, 1993-02 Camaro SS/Firehawk AAM Cast Aluminum w/Drain Plug
$102.95

-- 3:73 rear end gears --
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/ripi3geset77.html
Ring & Pinion, 3.73, Gear Set 7.5" & 7.625" Differential
$239.95

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~ Intake ~~~ 366.22 ++ shipping
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Running - 2490.67 - 2540.67 ++ shipping
-- Air Box --
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/slpairboxlid.html
SLP Camaro/Firebird Air Box Lid (LS1 only)
$95.00
-- Mass Air Flow Sensor --
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/masairflowse.html
Mass Air Flow Sensor, 1998-02 LS-1 High Flow
$189.95
-- Air Filter --
http://store.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=33-2118
33-2118 Replacement Air Filter
$81.27

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~ Cooling ~~~ 69.99 ++ shipping
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Running - 2560.66 - 2610.66 ++ shipping
-- Thermostat --
http://www.breathlessperformance.com/products/221.asp
Item 100-221: 172/178 Degrees High Flow Thermostat LS1 &LS6 97-03
$69.99

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~ Exhaust ~~~ 389.99 ++ shipping
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Running - 2950.65 - 3000.65 ++ shipping
-- Headers --
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=184
Pacesetter Long Tube LS1 Headers
$389.99

Opening up to 2.5" true dual with an H pipe... to Flow Master 40's

Any other ideas, or thoughts would be welcome, looking for more mods to do as well, but this is the beginnnings of a very long and expensive list

 

sway bar = anti roll bars. I would stick with the strano ones.

Probably dont need a torque arm. Ditch the thermostat and the mass air flow sensor. If you are changing gears in the rear end, you will need a tune. If you like the way it looks get the rear end cover, no other reason for that.


What are your plans for the vehicle? Might spend mods better in other places.

 

Ultimately power and speed

looking to do it right from the start, not half-assed like my last car.. it was modded, just definately not in any sort of order, and ended up doing damage that made me need to replace it in the long run because i made some changes that couldnt be handled properly

 

Check out some other places for the suspension parts. UMI, Spohn, etc. Also watch local forums for used stuff.
Non adjustable PHB is pointless.
Forget the aftermarket MAF.
If you want a 160* thermo, just go to Autozone and get one for half that price.
On the duals you will need to clearance your floor board for 40 series, unless you don't mind them hanging low.
The price on the K&N is about twice as much as it sould be.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...f2406cbf7424e1
Don't expect performance form it either.

My advice, scroll down the sponsors lists and check out their websites and prices. You'll find better deals.

Also hold off on the gears, differential cover, and shift kit and start off right with a good smaller converter. Nothing short of a power adder will wake up your A4 like it.

 

have you checked the BMR site for prices...seems like the ones you listed for the sway bars is a bit high. but i can't say ii've priced them out lately.

and like stated...you won't need the rear bar if you get the Xtreme duty drag setup from BMR. and for a drag car you don't want a heavy/stiff front bar...so you're kindda contradicting yourslef on that one.

as stated...forget the maf sensor. the stat is a good idea, but i've heard you can now get them cheaper than what they use to be.

the Diff cover could prolong the life of your 10bolt rear...but i wouldn't say it's neccessary. i would just save up for a 12bolt.

the strut tower bar isn't gonna do much for a drag car...and you surely don't need a 3 point. 2 point is more than sufficient.

 

Get some sub-frame connectors.
Get a stall convertor and cooler while doing the shift kit.
2-point strut brace, or skip it entirely.
Don't waste money on the MAF or K&N.
BMR makes decent stuff, but you need to figure out whether you want handling, or straight-line suspension.
Call Strano as recommended above. I have his re-valved shox and they rule.

 

Power and speed for what???

What you have so far is a plan for a suspension system that isn't much more effective than stock ... just bigger ... well the SFCs will add some improvement.

 

I am looking to be able to take it on the highway or country road and blow the doors off anything stock, at least anything with a ticket under $80K stock

And take it to the track, run straight pipes and go ***** out on 1/4 mile runs against the home pros

 

Skip the MAF unless you add a bigger TB

 

i like the trans go shift kits. a proper kit need more than just a bigger seperator plate hole. go for the better kit or regret it later.

 

oh...and i would go with magnaflow 4x9" mufflers instead of the flowmasters. they flow better and i think sound better.



oh and if you want some good highway speed power increases...look up the SSRA

functional cold air kit at slow speed and functional ramair at high speed.

i know www.lmperformance.com has it...not sure who else.

 

Two diametrically opposed suspension set ups ... what's good for one, will work against you on the other.

 

Forget the torque arm relocator and just get a relocated mount torque arm, mine is a Spohn.
As stated above the TransGo valve body reprogramming kit is the real deal, don't go with a half a solution.
Get a good torque converter (3500-3800 rpm stall) it will make more difference than you would ever expect for acceleration.
Swap the AAM cover for a TA cover with the support studs. AAM is for road racing and extra oil/oil cooling. The TA is built to help strengthen the case so that the gears will last longer without breaking.
Definitely get the SSRA and definitely skip any MAF modifications.

 

I would stick with the Strano Bars. These are the best for handling period. I love the set I have. And also should be hair bit lighter. If your getting a shift kit get the Transogo shift kit its around 120 bucks and is actually a good one. If your not lowering a lot I would not get the Lower LCA's brackets. The strut tower brace is minimal but there cheap so if you want to go ahead on that.

good luck.