So, I'm new here. Sorry if this has been addressed before, I searched for it and couldn't find anything. I am looking to take an LS6 out of a 2001 Corvette Z06 and put it into a 2000 Z28. I was just wondering how difficult it would be (I have never done anything like this before). Also, if you have any tips on how to go about this, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

 

I am going on the assumption that you already have a working LS1. In my opinion its not worth it, you can throw some heads/cam on that LS1 and murder that LS6 in the amount of power you will make over it. Especially if its the LS6 out of an '01 Z06.

 

It's not worth it unless your engine is screwed or you're getting the motor for basically free.

It's 385 horsepower vs. 345 horsepower. The only worthwhile upgrades on the 01 LS6 motor are the heads and intake manifold over a 2000 F-body. Even those aren't worth much stock vs. stock.. 30 horsepower at best. The cam was a little more radical in the 02 LS6, but the 01 LS6 cam wasn't worth much over the 01 LS1 cam.

Basically the LS6 motor makes a little more power due to increased compression, slightly increased headflow (stock vs. stock), and increased intake manifold flow (10 horsepower stock vs. stock). All 01+ LS1s and LS6s got the LS6 intake manifold.

There's nothing magic about LS6 motors at all.

Also, the rings are garbage in 01 LSx engines. Avoid like the plague unless you like oil consumption.

You can easily make 400-425 horsepower (350+ rwhp) on bolt-ons with the LS1 (Lid, catback, headers, LS6 intake manifold, etc), 450-500 horsepower on a cam-swap (380-420rwhp), and 500-550+ horsepower with a heads/cam/intake manifold swap (420rwhp-500rwhp).

Mike

 

^ From what you both said and what I have read, it seems like it really wouldn't be worth it. One thing I just want to throw out there is that it has a head/cam package and was dyno'd at 405 rwhp. Would you say that would make it worth it, or still not?

 

What??? The Z06 would dyno in the 340-365whp range, 405hp in the advertised ratings 02 and up...

Like it's been said before, the only differences between the LS1 and LS6 are the block (nothing significant), 243 casting heads (LS1 will use 853, 241 ect), the LS6 intake (01+ cars all had them), and the cam 204/211 for 01 and 204/218 for 02+...

Not worth swapping...Search vendors such as Texas speed and performance and whatnot...You'll find ported stock and aftermarket casting heads, as well as much better cam options out there...

 

^ Thanks for the responses guys, but like I said before, there is a head/cam package on it and I have the dyno chart that shows 405 rwhp

 

You can get 405rwhp cam only...

Heads and cam cars start at like 420whp for a mild setup, up to over 500whp for a ***** to walls perfectly engineered setup...

You could always go cam only, and pick up a set of used LS6/LS2 (243 castings) for about 300$...SO for around 1000$ you could have over 400whp no problems...

Also, you'll need longtube headers, an LS6 intake, and a lid and little stuff like that for it all to work well

 

Yeah dude,
I have been looking really hard at Texas Speed and the PRC Stage 1 LS6 CNC'd heads with 67cc chambers and a 205-ish/215-ish @.050 cam, .550-ish lift with a 114 or so LSA for better idle...and I live in Cali so I cant get too nuts. Whenever I have my baby to play around with...my wife says that I can do a new engine and I say Negatron!..and I gotta build the hell out of that 4L60.

point of the story, I have personally seen natty aspirated LS1's get 425-450hp to the wheels no sweat.


Cameron

 

I did a crate motor LS6 ('04-up) in mine when my stock LS1 developed a knock. I put down 385 RWHP.

I did a complete write-up on what you need for the swap at my website in my sig. I'm VERY happy with my choice of motors!

 

Check out thunder racing and their CheaTR cam...Great for stock manifolds...You can do shorty headers in cali, eh??? But not really worth it...

 

Si senor, it is a true statement that I may do shortys here, but here's the caveat....

The camshaft: I wanted to go with something that closely resembled the LS6 cam because A: I know that that cam is already smog legal in that engine according to my beloved CARB. B: the cheaTR cam might (emphasis on might) be a little to wild for smog testing.

my Father in-law is the proud owner of a SMOG Test only station and as long as as my EVAP and emissions numbers are good to go, he could care less about the visual inspection

I think that mid length tubes are in order so that the cat aint moved that far away from the motor.

opinion??

 

Mac midlengths perform almost as good as the budget longtubes out there, but your cats will be in pretty much the same location as longtubes put them...And i must say that the header to Y pipe connection on the Mac's is a real PITA...I used to have to fix it weekly...

If you can get away with longtubes, go for it...If visual inspection is no concern, why go with cats???

If you do longtubes, all brands are good, just depends on what you're looking for...

Value- pacesetter hands down...

But if you want stainless...GO QTP, ARH, or Kooks...Dynatech are alright but pricey....SLP fit like ***, and i'm pretty sure it's cheaper stainless material..

Then you have edelbrock which you have to pretty much weld together...

I've had QTP, Mac, and Kooks...SO i can attest to them...I've installed pacesetters and they went in good and have decent quality...

 

Cuz, dude, if the cat aint there, none of the various gasses will be burned off enough to pass the emissions portion of the SMOG test.

But yeah, I would go with Pacesetter LT's with more coats of black ceramic high temp pain on there

besides, I like cats because they are soft and furry

 

Yeah i am new here but i was hoping you guys could help me. I swaped my LS1 to a LS6 out of the 2005 CTS-V. My problem is my tranny wont go in flush b/c the spilnes on the input shaft are hitting the pilot bearing. I was wondering it any one had any suggestions...