Can someone explain why getting an airlid on an LS1 is such a big deal? It only inproves the lid!

K&N make a system that replaces the rubber bellow(to the TB) has its own pipe, and a large filter element that removes the entire lid assembly and creates it own look.

Would it not seem logical to replace the entire thing? The reason Im asking is because no one ever talks about the K&N. Is it junk. The only downfall is that it is pricey.Finally, does anyone have a K&N system for their LS1?

 

smooths out the airflow over stock. the fipk is just a aolt more expensive imo

mike

 

more airflow......

 

Yeah, I know why a lid would come in handy, but why not replace everything that has to do with airduction...the K&N kit? Why only do 1/2 the job? Thats really my question.

 

Because you won't see more power gains from changing everything. The only way you'll run faster is because of weight reduction from your wallet.

 

hahaha very true 2002Z28SSConv

 

lmao


but unfortunelty yet so true

 

I have the K&N FIPK and love it! The dyno numbers in my sig are with the FIPK and a cat-back. Those are the only mods performance-wise. It's probably not all that different from just a lid, but I like the appearance of it a lot better too.

 

WHAT????? Have you ever compared dyno results from a lid vs. KN FIPK. Lids dyno ~ 10 rwhp. The FIPK gets ~ 22 rwhp. Just do a search and see how much people have gotten. Numbers dont lie. The FIPK is worth every penny. I have it and love it. I dont have numbers to back it since i didnt dyno it, but there is a huge difference and I was truly amazed at the power gained from intake. Do not be afraid to get the FIPK. The power gain is more than double a lid.

 

You can throw dyno numbers out all day if you want, but the the draw back to the FIPK is its trapped right under the hood with little airflow. All the dyno runs are made with the hood open and plenty of air. The only real way of testing it is with back to back track runs, and no one has done this yet.

 

Dyno numbers are fine and dandy but I haven't found any 2 place dynos to race on yet. FPIK out performs on the dyno because of a straighter air path and more filter area. But with the hood closed going down the track......???
A lid + K&N + Fasttoys style ie SSRA, Whisper, ect. Will supply just as much air going down the track as the FPIK and the air will be cooler.

 

That is to bad that the LS1 went back to the 3rd gen. way of getting air into the TB. It is tuff to make your mind on this.

 

There's an interessting story in this month's GM HP magazin about their 4" crack pipe that they installed and tested. They saw HP gains on the dyno but not much at the track, they compared the 4" air inlet pipe and nothing at all.... just a filter.... yes, on a dyno with the hood open it's a difference but daily driving with the hood open or no hood is not that great...
The other question is : is it really noticeable HP ? Probably not that much that it's worth the extra money over a lid, well, this is just my opinion but if you just save some money and go with the lid you'll have this money left for something else ...

 

First for jamesz24 ... Two points. First the point about the FIPK having no place to draw air from ... it draws air the exact same way the lid does. But it is designed to make a more efficient use of the OEM designed air flow ... Besides, all the dynos are done with the hood up FIPK or lid ...

Second, yes, back to backs have been done at the track and the FIPK will and has consistantly out performed a lid alone. Now add the FTRA to a lid and they become essentially equal. But that aside ... with essentailly the same mods you have, I ran 2 tenths quicker with a FIPK.

Now for AL SS590 M6 ... The FTRA doesn't deliver any cooler air to the engine, going down the track, than the FIPK. But once you go to the FTRA you change the dollar value equation.

You can find an FIPK for $260 to $280 complete. Depending upon which lid and CAI system you get you'll be paying anywhere from $50 to $100 more for an FTRA over the FIPK.

Besides if you are going to mess with the radiator air flow, just remove the washer reservoir and the shroud underneath. It's less potetntially detrimental than physically blocking the radiator and delivers a heck of lot more air to the mouth of the air intake than the FTRA ... think about it what's going to get you more air a slit 2" by 14" or an opening 14" by 24" ... I knocked 2 tenths off my times with this mod ...

I'll stand by the FIPK, the times in the sig with a 3660 lb raceweight, a +1400 D/A and nothing but bolt ons ...

Good Luck

 

I'll stand by the FIPK, the times in the sig with a 3660 lb raceweight, a +1400 D/A and nothing but bolt ons ...

Good Luck [/B][/QUOTE]

Let's see you've got long tubes to my stock manifolds
cut out to my loudmouth
short belt to my stock set up
3.73s to my 3.42s
skinnys to my stock fronts
drag wheels to my stock rear wheels
3660 lbs to my 3590 lbs
3200 vig to my 3500 Yank
FPIK to my SSRA+Direct Flow (which does NOT block the radiator)
and 12.12 to my 12.15

I'll stick to what I've got