racer12306

I'm looking at getting a 4th Gen in the near future. I started looking at LT1s exclusively because I figured I couldn't afford an LS1 car. But it appears LS1 cars are cheaper than I thought.

Is there anything to be concerned with an LS1 that has 100,000 to 120,000 miles on it. As long as maintenance is done, I don't see any issue with it. How are the autos at that mileage? I'd like a manual, but I'm not opposed to an auto as I don't want to limit myself.

EvilBird

yea man i would rather have a Ls1 with over 100k then a lt1....the Ls1 seem to be okay if they arent to beat on, my buddy has a 99 z28 with 160,000 and its still goin strong.

johnny6

If it's well maintained you won't have any issues.

99 z28 Haas

I would definitely try and find one that is as close to stock as possible. You can be certain that if the owner put mods into it, that they most likely beat on it to some extent. If you're looking into an auto be sure and look for any shifting issues when driving it. If you happen to go manual, then its imperative that you be able to shift into every gear smoothly and that there is no clutch slippage. Again, these problems are all more likely once the car has been modded, thus stressing the importance of finding a stock ls1. The best thing to do would be to have a buddy who knows about f-bodies assist you in making your final decision. If you dont have any friends that are knowledgeable in the field then I would recommend using this forum as a resource. good luck

racer12306

I don't have any friends that are knowledgable in F Bodies. However, I should be able to work my way through it as long as I know of special things to look for. The transmission stuff seems pretty standard. Is there anything specific to look for on a 98-02 car?

Kraest

Drivetrain-wise it'll be fine great.... It's an LS1

However:
It's a 4th Gen car. GM really cut corners on fit/finish and longevity of the smaller details.

Expect pretty much everything else to be rough on an older car like that with high mileage --- remember -- EVERYTHING has a bunch of years/mileage... not just the motor/transmission... the drivetrain is the least of your worries.

Suspension - bouncy, rattly, nasty feel -- replace it with cheap Bilsteins and Eibachs -- bushings worn on other stock pieces, rubber deteriorating on joints/inserts.

Electronics - window motors shot or on the way out, AC on its last leg, interior pieces missing/broken, etc.

You pretty much get what you pay for every single time unless you hit an AWESOME bargain like my 98 Z28 was --- it had 138,000 miles, but it had a new motor installed in 02, a newer T-56 installed, the entire suspension was completely redone (new aftermarket LCAs, new aftermarket TA, new aftermarket SFCs, new aftermarket STB, new aftermarket motor mounts, new Billstein shocks, new Eibach springs, etc.) along with the clutch and a few other things.

The 98 TA I had was such a POS, I don't even put it in my sig.

Mike

Kraest

If you're looking at 100,000+ mile cars, I would honestly buy the one that has the most suspension work done to it --- and not an auto --- also, a newer clutch wouldn't hurt.

johnny6

Pretty much covered everything, especially on the suspension category! I'm still on a stock setup and it rides like *** and now that i got some mods everything shakes and rattles.

racer12306

hmmmm, interesting info.


How about tuner boxes, like the Hypertech or Diablo Sport? Do these provide nice gains? I'm not looking to stop the world, but some small stuff would be nice to do.

Whats wrong with an auto other than personal preferance?

Kraest

Handheld tuners aren't even part of the issue -- read what I said above.

The 4L60E is weak. If it has 100,000+ miles of abuse on it, it's only time before it starts slipping and going out. A T-56 is easy. Drop in a new clutch and no big deal.

racer12306

I get what you said, I'm just asking if they do anything. In the Neon world we would end up getting the shaft for 03+. Stuff will be released and they don't do a thing.

johnny6

You can only do so much with a handheld tuner, clear codes, set shift points (some), set rev limits, remove speed limiter. If you want to get the max out of a stock LS1 you'll have to send the PCM to a tuner, if you have zero knowledge about the basics of tuning i wouldn't even bother with a handheld. Another thing, you won't get a huge benefit from a stock tune, start off with the basic bolt ons etc. etc.

00ls100

basically listen to what these guys are saying.

look for a stock or as close to stock ls1 you can find.

then once you find one, install any mantainance parts it needs. then you can work on more power-if thats what you want. Most will be happy with the stock ls1 power for a while.

baalic

Dyno Tune should net you a good gain,WAAAAAAY better then any handheld could net you, and to whoever said not to worry about the drivetrain.....umm what about the 10 bolt rear? or the aluminum driveshaft...both junk

johnny6

You do realize he was talking about a stock setup right? You're not going to going to harm a 10 bolt on a stock setup Unless you take it to the track and do 6k rpm launches on slicks every weekend.