Guys need some opinions on the Jet Hot LT's. Most of the search's I've done have come up with posts that are at least a year old detailing fitment problems. Have these problems been cleared up since Jet Hot has basically redesigned the Hooker LT's ? How is the fitment, ground clearance, quality (flanges, etc.?)

Opinions on the new catted y-pipe (looks like it comes in 53 pieces) that can be converted to an ORY? Any experiences? I'm leaning towards keeping the emissions...not sure though.

I know most people say that all LT's produce about the same rwhp, but does anyone have any recent dyno #'s.

I'm leaning towards Pacesetter, Jet-Hot's, Hooker, or Kooks. Any help or opinions would be appreciated.

 

given the same size tubes...primaries...all LTs will produce the same hp give or take a standard error.

the advantage of something like Kooks are they are stainless, so no worries about rust or bad coating. but they are very $$ compared to others.

i'm happy with my flowtechs

 

i have jet-hots, had them for over a year now. im very happy with them, no fitment problems whatsoever. i personally did not find the install that hard at all. a few people have complained that they started to rust on them, but i have not had that problem (probably because we have no snow/salt here). i can't comment on their y-pipe because i went with true duals. jet-hots, pacesetters and hookers apre pretty much the same thing. kooks are nice, but a bit $$$ due to stainless steel construction. like teke184 said, with the same size tubes the hp gains will all be very similar.

 

I bought jet hot lt's about 6 months ago and they have been sitting in my garage which is also where the dryer shoots its hot air out and rusts every damn thing in my garage but the headers are still spotless

 

Thanks for the reply guys, but I would still like some more feedback in terms of fitment quality issues as well as the opinions on their Y-pipe....thanks in advance

 

Jet Hots are a good header with no issues in fitment, quality, or clearance. However, Pacesetter LT's offer about the same quality for about $100 less (both 3/8" thick flanges, 16guage steel). The only thing you give up with the Pacesetter is inside coating.

Jason

 

JET-Hot has fixed all of the fitment issues that they had. The catted ypipe if a little iffy in terms of installation, but once it's on there the fit is ok. I say this only because I've installed close to 100 sets of Jet Hots on LS1's (i'm a dealer and worked with them on a lot of the R&D) and the catted ypipe is a pain. If you're lucky enough to live in a state with a lenient emissions program or one with no visual inspection, you can get away with no cats. Just use LS1 edit or HPTuners to get rid of the trouble codes. They've come a long way with the coating since they came out with the LT's. As long as you don't scratch the coating or weld to it, you wont have any problems. The issues arise when you damage a spot of the coating which allows moisture to get under it and rust and cause the coating to bubble.

 

There's more of a difference between the pacesetters and the Jet Hots than that. The flanges used on the pacesetters just plain suck. They're not true, so the dont seal well to the head. The weld's aren't as nice. You get what you pay for. If you can pick up a set of nice Jet Hot's with ypipe for $710, why would you assume the risk with the pacesetters? I've done 3 sets of the PS headers, all of which WILL NOT SEAL on the head. 2 of those 3 customers took them off and bought jet hots. If the Jet HOts are out of your budget the PS are a better option, just be aware that you will have issues.

 

I bought Jet Hots about a year ago with their catted y-pipe. The installation was not incredibly hard I did it myself in I think 4 evenings. I did have to cut part of the k member because the header was VERY close to it, any movement of the engine and the header would have hit. Shaving the edge of the k member gave about 3/8 of an inch of clearance and it does not appear to be making any contact. I'm somewhat disappointed with the y-pipe as it did not have any hints or instructions whatsoever. I think with experience or a manual I could have had it turn out better than it did. I'll agree with NastyTA and say it's just OK. It banged the floor at first but after some monkeying and a few passes at the track it has settled down. The headers have some light surface rust I noticed when I changed the oil Sunday. I think it would wipe off with a rag.

 

The problem with the catted ypipe is that it's in too many pieces. All of the pieces are bent and if you don't have them oriented exactly where they need to be at each joint, the rest of the setup wont line up and you'll also lose clearance. For anyone reading this that is planning on installing the catted ypipe the best way to get it to fit "well" is to get as much ground clearance as possible even though you may be sacrificing some clearance with the floor. Once everything is tightened up and in place, weld a stock or used valve spring between the pipe on the drivers side and the floor. Sounds odd, but it works perfect for stopping the pipe from banging the floor.