I would like to know which system peforms the best. S.F.I.K. Super Flow Induction Kit or Volant Cold Air Intake?

 

I personally like the lid design the best. The problem with the FIPK kit is that the filter is open, so it sucks in hot air from the engine compartment. That's going to hurt your 60' ability at the track since it's not going to start pulling in cooler air until after the car is moving. The inlet air temps have been confirmed to be significantly hotter w/ the FIPK vs. a lid like the G2 lid we carry. With the lid, you're only pulling air from the front of the box (and the bottom if you have the free ram air mod). More than one person has verified the IAC temps with AutoTap.

Trevor - LGM

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'02 SS: 11.63 @ 114.06 MPH, 1.588 60'; 3,515# raceweight, 1,102' D.A.
naturally-aspirated with bolt-ons, a cam, and a fat converter!
L.G. Motorsports (972) 272-7753
Check out the SS!

 

Thats why the Volant has the heat sheild.

 

I would stick with the lid design as well. Its dyno proven and has the factory appearance. I find the exposed filter designs a bit ugly IMO.

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- Steve - 1998 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
LS1 A4, 2.73's, Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 245/50/ZR16's, Direct Flow Lid, GMAF, !FRA, Loudmouth, 3" Y-Pipe, AIT Mod, Fan Switch Mod
13.774 @ 103.33, 300rwhp & 308.6rwtq, 97+ RPO Codes, Join The CamaroZ28.Com Users Webring

 

I have a Lid, K&N filter, and the Fast Toys Ram Air. You can check it out at: Fast Toys.net ...its seems as they are closed until Aug. 12 - FYI.

 

Thanks for the info, I already have a lid though, so would it be worth getting any other parts for the air intake or should I leave it as it is.

 

Trevor ... that isn't absolute BS, but it's close ... the only time anyone, that I'm aware of, has pulled lower IAT temp with a lid is when it was coupled with a sealed FTRA or like induction system. Which is the only rationalization to consider caniblizing your cooling system in favor of an FTRA.

A lid, FIPK and Volant all draw thier air from the exact same location. There's no magical cooler air source for a just a lid.

As far as performance, the FIPK will out perform just a lid and it's performance will near or exceed that of a FTRA or like system. All, without making concessions to any of the risk factors associated with a FTRA or like system - higher operating temp/hyrdrolock exposure.

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'01 Mystic Teal Z28
A4/3.73
Mods List Here

12.12/112.81/1.70 60'
325 rwhp/341 rwtq
www.MysticZ28.com

NorCal LS1/LT1

"To play it safe is not to play"

[This message has been edited by V6toZ28 (edited August 08, 2002).]

 

That's just a little incorrect.There was a member of LS1.com who dynoed with a lid versus stock versus a K&N FIPK on the same day.With the hood open the K&N had a slight edge over the lid.However,since most of us don't run the track with the hood open,he then did some back to back runs with the hood closed.The K&N setup actually lost power even over the stock set-up with the hood closed and the car sitting still.Now this proves that the K&N does pull in hot air with the car not moving.So how does it do in the real world when moving?Not sure.It's kind of hard to simulate that on a dyno machine.
Kevin

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1998 Black Z28 A4
-------1/8-------
8.584 @ 83.64 MPH
Pics
Camaro/Firebird Birthday Bash

 

Actually it was on LS1tech - though he may have also posted the results up on LS1.com - and it wasn't stock, it was an FTRA. Which when sealed is not drawing air from the same place as stock, a lid or a FIPK. As I said, that maybe the only rationalization for an FTRA over and FIPK, but not a lid.

As far as a slight edge, again in that particular test, I believe that was on 422 stroker and I believe it was still 2 or 3 rwhp. On a typical stock set up, the most gain I've ever heard of with a lid is 15rwhp, and typically in the 10-13 range. The FIPK is at least 18, as high as 22 and typically in the 19-20 range. On a stock engine, that 7 rwhp is going to be significant.

What it all comes down to is budget and what a person is trying achieve. If your budget is tight and you've got the mod bug, by all means get a lid. If your budget isn't an issue and you're building a primary drag car, the FTRA is probably the best option. If you're looking for good street/strip daily driver combo and your budget fits, then thr FIPK or Volant is good fit. Or if you just think one is prettier that the other than go with that.



[This message has been edited by V6toZ28 (edited August 08, 2002).]

 

whats and s.f.i.k.?

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01 M6 STRIPPED BLACK Z28 (ONLY OPTION WAS THE REAR DEFOGGER)

KN FIPK installed 02-06-02

 

I think we may be talking about 2 different guys.This car was a stock LS1.I looked for the thread again and I couldn't find it.You'll have to forgive me though,my memory isn't what it used to be so I can't be more specific
Kevin

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1998 Black Z28 A4
-------1/8-------
8.584 @ 83.64 MPH
Pics
Camaro/Firebird Birthday Bash

 

There's no difference it operating temp w/ an ftra unless you live in AZ or some other insainly hot place. But for the rest of us in the other 49 states the FTRA works pretty damn good even in the summer. As for the "hyrdrolock exposure" problem, it is really not an issue unless you like to drive in 2 feet of water. I know many people who have no problem w/ drving in the rain w/ their FTRA. For those who are still insecure about it, they provide a block plate for harsh weather, but u don't need it anyway.

 

Actually it's people in Texas that have ATAPed and noted the higher temp, typically around 220* in the summer for an FTRA car as opposed to 210 or less for a car without FTRA.

Now is this a problem ... depends. 220 is considered within the operating range of the F-body. Some people don't care ... some of us feel it's a little like smoking a cigerette ... I see people every day that light up and don't immediately keel over ... but that doesn't neccesarily mean it's a good idea.

As far as hydrolock not being a concern ... why do think FastToys supplies that block off plate? If it's a non issue they could put more money in thier pocket by not supplying it or they could charge for it ... but they supply it at no charge ... why, becasue they know it's risk and if you hyrdrolock you can't come back and sue because they supplied you with a block off plate. It's your fault if you failed to use it.

As as the FTRA not working .. never said that or implied it ... work's great. And may very well be the best N/A induction mod you can do for improving your 1/4 times ... if my car was going to be used primarly at the track and only occasionaly driven on the street, that's the way I would go. For a daily driver that is used at the track, the Volant or FIPK presents a near equally good - possibly better - solution. Without the inherent risks, that provide no real viable retun in relation to the potential risks.

 

No there is no heat problem in 107 deg weather. The temp's w/ a 160 thremostat never rises above 170 except in traffic, which happens to any car w/ or w/o a RA kit. The block off plate is supplied to cover fast toys a$$ so they dont get sued. I know many poeple who drive w/ their FTRA in the rain and have no problems. They had some concerns w/ it at first, so they checked the filter after driving in the rain and the filter was a barely moist. The air dam is well in front of tires so you don't have to worry about them kicking up water in to the air box. How often do you hear about people hydrolocking from an FTRA. I've heared of someone sucking up water when he hit a puddle in a 5.0 w/ a homemade ram air kit, and the only think that happened was that the motor stalled because the water cloged the air filter , but did not go past it.

[This message has been edited by texanmutt (edited August 12, 2002).]