Well I decided to jump ship and become and owner of an LS1. It's a black on tan t-top M6 with only 10K on the clock. I couldn't resist. I traded in a 95 MOnte Carlo and after that it came to like 17K. It' a 2001. With that being said:

I think I should expect around 315 at the wheels right? This doesn't have an optispark like the LT1? Does that mean it isn't 8 hours to change plugs?

I bought Weld in SFCs for my 95TA and never installed them. They should fit on the 01 Formula right?

Good first mods are a CAI and catback I'm assuming? A lot of people are going with SLP LM, and I'm thinking that might be my best bet because it's a lot cheaper and from what I hear loud as hell.

 

congrats on the new purchase!

i'm unsure if the sfc's for your trans am will fit the formula, but if you checked with the company you bought them from, i'm sure they'd be able to tell you pretty quick. maybe if anything, jack up the formula and just kinda test fit the sfc's to it and see if it looks like everything meets up.

i would expect more around 300 hp to the wheels. i'm pretty sure my 02 z28 would have dynoed right around 300 stock. it dynoed 328 rwhp with an intake lid and borla.

i hear good things about the slp loudmouth, but complaints about the noise if they also get headers and off-road y. i'm not sure if maybe you get long-tubes but keep your cats on, if the sound is still bearable or not. but i hear the most complaints when guys run no cats and the loudmouth.

..and yeah, as far as i know, ls1's don't have an optispark.

good luck and have fun modding the new fbody...

 

Grats on your new ride! An M6 low mileage Formula you SOB I am so friggin jelous!

Since you got the M6 and it's an 01 with ls6 intake, I'll be a little more optimistic and say you got a good shot at 310 RWHP stock. I have no idea if the SFC will fit from a 95 to a 01 model so I agree with the siberiankiss and think you should ask the place you bought them from.

Great first mods are Lid or FIPK II, CAI, Cat back. Since it's a manual then you should also upgrade the shifter and clutch. Then some Drag radials on the back would be sweet for traction.

Just be careful with that 10 bolt rearend. They don't hold up well to a lot of mods with the M6 cars once you add sticky tires. Muhahaha you have joined us on the LS1 darkside and we now OWN you!

Good luck with your new ride and Grats!

 

Black LS1 six-speed Formulas > all.



I don't see why the subframe connectors wouldn't fit (unless your last car was a convertible,) but call the manufacturer and find out. The first mods people usually start out with are lids and exhausts. The Loudmouth isn't bad, but if you're going to want headers in the future I'd look elsewhere.

 

And these aren't true duals are they? They have one cat or two? If they have one, what size cutout would I need if I'm putting it right infront of the cat?

 

Oh yeah I almost forgot. Slp LM is great if you are keeping cats and not putting on headers. If you plan to dump the cats and put longtube headers on down the road then I might rethink the LM as a cat back. They are waaayyy too loud and raspy with Lt's and no cats. A few people like that but I think 9 of 10 end up dumping the loudmouth after headers go in.

If you really like the loudmouth then get it. Once headers go in (if they do) then you can get a 18" dynomax bullit race muffer for about 40 bucks and have an exhaust shop mount it in place of the resinator SLP gave you. That should help the sound a lot. Just beware that the loudmouth has gotten people tickets from local cops for having a loud exhaust. If you see a cop around then go as easy on the gas as you can to keep the noise down till he/she is gone.

Good Luck

 

No you don't have true duals (although alot of folks have them made for LS1's ) but you do have two cats. Both cats are right up by the engine manifold. You'd be hard pressed to try and get cutouts before the stock cats. Generally speaking people who get a cutout will put it in the I-pipe after the cats but before the muffler.

But even more popular is LT headers and a ORY with no cats. Then the cutout will really be unrestricted exhaust flow. If you are going to get a cutout then I wouldn't get a LM exhaust. Just get a hooker catback or even just a muffler. Keep a quieter tone until you open the cutout and then go loud as heck till you want to be quiet again. Just spend the extra dollars and get a cutout with an electic switch. That way you can push a button and be loud as heck but when you see a cop or have your mom in the car you can make it quiet.

Enjoy

 

Thanks for the replies guys

Looks like a friendly forum...who's the trolls/post ******? JK

Whoeevr said I should get 300: didn't LS1s change in 01 for a little more HP?

I can't go CAI and Ram Air, can I?

I think I want to go COld Air because I LOVE cowl induction hoods (have one on my TA) I feel there's 10000 LS1s that are Ram Air, but not many with a cowl hood.

I looked in Thunder Racing and their BMR SFCs fit 92-02, so I should be OK

First mods: cutout, weld in SFCs and that's it....for now

 

I need emissions, so I can't go LTs/ORP...I need the cats.

How loud would it be to get the cutout welded in the IPipe for now? I really wanna go with the LoudMouth, and I think I'll end up with headers-high flow cat-(cat)-cutout-Rest of LM cat back)

How's that?

 

Since your not in California you should probably be ok with LT headers and ORY. You can get HF cats and have them welded into the y-pipe. This will allow you to pass the computer test and sniffer test. The only way you would have a problem is if they do a visual test and know what they are looking for. Check with some local gearheads and they should know if you will have a problem or not.

If you go Loudmouth and have HF cats it won't be as bad but your still looking at very loud and rediculous loud. This is fine for the track and daytime driving but do you really want a car that loud at 2am when the cops have nothing better to do?

If I were you I would do what I did. Dynomouth all the way and here is why I say that:

1). dynomouth and loudmouth are 2200 cmf and thus produce max HP gains (better then the muffler catbacks like borla, corsca, hooker, ect).

2). Dynomouth is almost as loud as loudmouth at WOT but a lot quieter at easy acceleration allowing you to be stealthy late at night, early in the morning or when a cop is behind you

3). Dynomouth is less expensive. Cost is $150.00 with reusing stock tips or $250.00 with new stainless steel ones.

What you do is buy a 12" dynomax race bullet muffler (looks like a large piece of pipe but it is very effective). That should run you $36.00 and with shipping maybe $50. Then bring the bullit muffler to a local exhaust shop . Have them remove the stock muffler and weld in it's place a fabbed pipe that they will provide to keep the dual out continuity. Then tell them to weld the 12" bullit in the I-pipe right behind the rear axel. Then while you are there you can have them install the cutout in the I-pipe somewhere before the bullit muffler.

The stock pipes are 2.75" stainless steel mandrel press bent. Cat backs are normally 3" stainless steel mandrel press bent. So really all you gain from the loudmouth itself is .25" pipe increase which is not going to make a huge HP difference.

Now I had the parts/labor cost me $100.00. So the total was:

$50.00 for muffler
$100.00 labor

$150.00 total but that is with reusing stock tips which I didn't care for. So I found a sweet looking pair of stainless steel 3" dual/dual tips for $85.00 at fasttoys.net. So it was $100.00 shipped to my door. With the new tips I spent a total of $250.00 but I got a better sound (IMO), little to no drone, maximum flow and a wicked sound.

It sounds deep at idle, mean at acceleration and screams at WOT. I am very happy with it. But if you want the loudmouth that is cool. It will sound good until you get headers. But like I said before you can always replace the resinator with a bullit muffler later if you want to.

Good Luck

 

Changing plugs is no problem unless you have really big forearms and then you will have trouble with the back on on the passenger side. The rest of them can easily be reached from the top once the AIR tubes are pulled away (2 bolts each side). Congrats

Dustin

 

28rwhp gain from lid and cutout?(borla, the $600 cutout).. not likely.. You probably gained about 12-16rwhp.. so look at your car producing about 312rwhp bone stock.. see my numbers? thats right on par..

 

the best bang for the buck on a cat back is an electric cutout! it sounds great on a stock car, a cammed car, and a HEAVILY cammed car with LT's and no cats (10 second car on spray)

also, DON'T get the ripper, get the pro5.0! i have had the hurst, the ripper, and the pro 5.0 and if someone tried to take the pro 5.0 i would break both there arms off! its SUCH a nice shifter.

do all the little free mods you can. i took the front swaybar off last night and it REALLY made the tires hook

a t/a rear end girdle is good to have (thus the reason i got mine), SFC's, a panhard bar, and LCA's are all good investments.

just buy a lid. on the dyno it will be less than the fipk but i don't c many ppl racing on a dyno and when wind gets built up it really forces it in there. a ws6 hood (ramair hood) would be a NICE addition in looks and performance since you can seal it off and have nothing but cold air going into the engine and i bet at high speeds it actually builds a bit of boost

thats my take on things and if you ever need any help my SN on aim is ramairstyle00. have fun with it!!!

 

My current set up on my TA was VERY loud, so I'm used to it. I don't mind doing it at 2 AM

I'm prolly just gonna get a lid and catback with cutout for now....after awhile I'll do headers and such.

I have weld in SFCs already that are going in and will proll ybe welded when the cutout is welded. I have to wait and see.

 

congrats on the new car, I love Formula's