Ummm...tire irons and hammers don't go with changing plugs/wires...

 

Man I'm sorry to hear your problem bro. I really hope you get that plug out soon and get your car up and running again. Let me know how things go bro.

 

The tire iron (the flat side of it) was used in attempt to pry the wire off with the engine block as leverage but it didn't work... The hammer was used to give it extra prying force but instead that broke the sparkplug... ...Do you think I'm going to beable to get it off? The boot itself is torn into shreads and the plug seems screwed... I'm pretty hesitant that I might not beable to get it out... There's just not enough room down there for me to get enough leverage to pull it out. Too close to the fenderwell. Any other ideas?

 

i really can't believe you're having that much trouble getting a spark plug boot off. i've changed a few hundred spark plugs and i have never had that much trouble getting a boot off. maybe you're messing with the knock sensor?? (humor)

seriously though, what the hell?

try using your pliers and grip the boot, then rotate it around the spark plug, a few revolutions if you can. since you broke the spark plug, it should come off pretty easily.

also, if you can get a razor blade in there, slicing it longway will help release it.

 

I tried the pliers and rotating the boot aswell but the wire won't rotate in either direction period. The razor idea sounds nice but there's a metal boot protector covering the boot...

Thanks for the ideas though...

 

Edit: The problem seems to be leverage, I really cannot get any real pulling force toward it with only my left hand being able to fit down there, I can't reach it from under the car either... It would be deeply embarrasing to have to pull the whole motor out just to get a sparkplug...

 

Sorry to hear abought your mess bud.

My only ideas although they may not be the best are to break the porclyn off the plug since it seems to be broke anyway and get it out that way, sometimes ive used a long hook to get under the boot between it and the porclyn and that helps.

also in my car the boot slides back off the plug although i have a v6.

Good luck with it man, and have fun with it when its finished!

Don

 

so you broke the spark plug but the wire won't rotate in either direction ??? is the wire stuck inside the boot, or is the plug not really broken?

the metal boot cover doesn't extend past the end of the boot, correct? you should have at least 1/4"-3/8" on boot extending past the metal tube. slice that all the way around with a razor. if you can do that, the rest of the wire and the top of the boot should come apart pretty easily. then the tube will slide off, then you can remove the rest of the boot then the spark plug.

 

The boot cover extends well beyond the end of the boot, it also covers the sparkplug too making slicing that portion impossible...

 

Argh, this is becoming aggrivating. Day 3 and I finally was forced to remove the coil rack, but now the coil rack won't come all the way out because it is still attached to the #6 and #8 wire! I can't get anywere near enough grip or force to remove #6, less like #8... Jesus GM, what the ****?!

Edit: Removed the Airpipe aswell and gained tons more room but still can't get aquadate leverage... I pulled as hard as I could only to break pieces of rubbers off of the boot making it completely blunt with the metal boot protector...I'm running out of energy and paitence... It might have to be towed to a mechanic..

 

I FINALLY GOT IT OFF!!!

It took alot of effort though, Coil Packs, Air Pipe was removed and it still wasn't easy... I finally pulled the boot and boot protector off when I found the right leverage. Unfortunately though, thats all that came off... I found it also broke off the wire puck (that connects to the plug) and the pluck was STILL connected to the sparkplug along with a short piece of wire meaning I still couldn't get a socket over it... Alot of prying and pliers took care of that... The spark plug itself was devistated, Absolutely no white insulation between the bolt and the boot, it was exposing bare metal conductor. Basically, the Wire, Boot, and plug came out in about 5 pieces making this the hardest plug I've ever changed... Whoever installed them installed no Dielctric grease. I replaced both the wire and plug as necessary leaving #6 and #8 next... I needed my car today however so I havn't touched them yet...

I felt no accelleration improvement from the installation of only 6 of 8 Taylor 8MM Spiro wires with the exception of smoother accelleration but my gas milage gauging from the fuel gauge seems to have taken a signifficant increase, by how much I'll soon find out...

 

Completed!!!

#6 and #8 were completed without the removal of the coil packs...

The #6 plug still looked... decent... but #8 was fowled and covered with oil... I replaced both the plugs and wires for both and holy crap I felt a TREMENDOUS difference in just two plugs!... So much less effort to get the car moving throughout the mid-rpms... I'm sure this is only reattaining lost power because of fowled plugs but I didn't know they were that bad...