alrighty guys, Im getting a 2000 camaro SS, I would like it to run low 12s, high 11s. Im not a mechanic so i need opinions of what others have done down the road to get this far.

What im trying to see is a list of mods
The price of the mods
thats the hp gain for it
and just a qucky question. Is the automatic trany in a Camaro actully just as good or around as good as having the stick? i hear this from alot of people saying the automatics are awsome. i also hear that with a good driver they can reach into the low low 13s, and was not sure if that is with a automatic transmision as well. thx for ur time, sry if im asking n00b questions

 

Fist things first. Most People do a lid, filter, Ported and Polished Throttle body. POLISHED MAF not Ported. (around $300 for all that) The stocker is fine to a considerable amount of HP. Nitrous can help coax it into lower #'s. These motors respond well to nitrous. I'm kind of leary about spray. But if you do it make sure you get all the required saftey equipment. (window switches, fuel saftey switch, etc... and a tune)

Cat-back exhaust (actually it's a Y-pipe back) Long tube headers and Y-pipe, Cut out... Catbacks range from $500- $950.... LT headers can be had from $350 for LT's themselves, Y-pipe and cats maybe add an extra $400... again prices vary...

Lower COntrol Arms for the back, Subframe connectors, Torque arm, Light duty drag radials (not wrinkle wall)..

Do some weight reduction. THese cars w/ minor upgrades and placed on a good diet can run low 12's.

Hope that helps...

Here's a link for some good performance sites.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466193

 

well with a good stall and sticky's, i've heard of the front wheels poping up an inch or two on otherwise STOCK A4 camaros. So ya, i'd say the auto is a good choice, if thats what you want. the only downfall is its not as much fun to drive. and the downfall of the T56 is breaking your rear on minimal mods.

 

search is your friend!

This was just 7 threads down.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465884

 

ya i hear alot about the rear axles being crap with higher HP, if i do get alot of HP i dont plan on launching it so that would mean no track time for me. but i would do alot of 30 roles and such since i live right next to the highway, thats what about 90% of the races are hear anyway. i just say high12/low 11 sec car b/c ive seen them on the highway b4. So ya a set up for doing like 30-120 would be nice

 

in the autos with a stall the axles are good. Its difficult to blow out a rear end with the autos, but if you arent smart about it you'll snap one.

 

Its the gears grenading more than the axels breaking.

 

The 10-bolt will stand behind the automatic for much longer than a 6-speed car. I've seen guys break rear-ends with the 6-speed on the street. I've seen auto cars go low 11s on the stock 10-bolt. This is typical because the auto doesn't shock the drivetrain like the 6-speed does. You take the slack out of it when you brake-stall the converter.

As far as reliability goes:
The 6-speed is a much nicer piece, while the 4L60E is on borrowed time. However, both will need to be rebuilt in high-horsepower applications, so don't be fooled into thinking that the 6-speed is bulletproof while stock.

The automatic will need to be rebuild with Redline bands, billet servos, kevlar clutch packs, 4L65-E planetaries, and "The Beast" sunshell to really live behind a high-horsepower application.

The T-56 will need steel shift-forks, hardened gears, and carbon-fiber blocker rings.

Mike

 

I broke my T56 before my rear, running almost 400ftlbs of TQ @ the FW... ... Got my T56 rebuilds on the way.. hehe..

I think that rear is a bit stonger than ppl say... of course it's not going to last w/ nitrous, slicks and a couple hundered HARD passes..

This is true... I don't beat the heck out of mine, tho... The theroy of it is 100% accurate. You can get a good, true bolt in replacement 12Bolt through Strange for a bit over $2000.... I'll get it eventually.