Heads and Cam done; got some questions
iirc there was a tsb on oil pump oring leakage. although, i'm not sure about it causing low oil pressure; but it did cause aeration which was known to cause lifter tap...
probably all that's needed to fix it. "hopefully"
probably all that's needed to fix it. "hopefully"
good thing people are mentioning lifter tap now, because **** if when I was just driving home from the exhaust shop that car was tapping like crazy from the driver side. I'm hoping its just related to this o-ring issue, but if its something small like a loose rocker then thats fine too with me just as long as its a pretty simple fix and nothing expensive
but an x-pipe dumped from two 4x9 magnaflows sound great
no drone or anything inside and nice and smooth on the cruise home...don't want to open it up to over 2500 rpm right now to hear it because i'll be more paranoid about the ticking... hopefully we'll get it straight this weekend when we've got some time...
but an x-pipe dumped from two 4x9 magnaflows sound great
no drone or anything inside and nice and smooth on the cruise home...don't want to open it up to over 2500 rpm right now to hear it because i'll be more paranoid about the ticking... hopefully we'll get it straight this weekend when we've got some time...
Nah...it had 85k on it when I bought it... This is the only time in several months that happened...I was driving down the highway and it came on (or off I guess...) I haven't started the car since because of this oiling issue so I don't know if it still does it. Thanks though
Jmmullin, the tap you hear may be piston slap which is common on the older ls1 fbodies (98-00 I think), but make sure your o-ring isn't pinched like others has stated. Also, recheck your rocker arms to make sure none of them didn't come loose after the h/c install.
Your erratic idle, along with the tcs light staying on is all in the tune. I wouldn't drive it hard until you get it tuned. I have the exact same setup and had the same problem except i'm an A4:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...020&highlight=
Your erratic idle, along with the tcs light staying on is all in the tune. I wouldn't drive it hard until you get it tuned. I have the exact same setup and had the same problem except i'm an A4:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...020&highlight=
ASR off light was odd, but it did follow your car's symptoms too...it came on once I turned the A/C on, I didn't even connect the two...as what is there to connect between them??? haha This tapping wasn't the piston slap, the car had been running for several minutes and was completely warmed up, it was a much sharper tap tap tap than the wap wap wap the piston slap makes. forgive my sound effects.. lol
Jason should have known to use a new pickup tube O-ring, and to use the correct one for the pump. Are you still using the stock pump? What head mill, gasket thickness, and pushrod length did you use? Hopefully you updated to the LS7 lifters! Finally, VERY CAREFULLY inspect the seal on the cam retainer plate. Any irregularity or minor imperfection will cause oil feed problems to the lifter oil galley. You're more than likely find a new retainer plate fixes the oil pressure issue rather than the O-ring
Last edited by Marc 85Z28; May 8, 2008 at 07:17 PM.
Alright the problem was solved. O-ring was replaced and pickup tube bent back a little bit and now I'm running around 50 psi at idle and 60 when accelerating, hot or cold
Time for a tune!
Time for a tune!
Same with mine- new oil pump, oil pressure was dropping to 0 at hot idle-
There should be a sticky about, if you change your oil pump on a high-mile engine, that you need to replace the O-ring- they take a 'set' and loose their flexibility.
New oil ring, and several hours taking the front of the motor off, AGAIN, solved the problem- thanks for the ideas- ( I responded originally over on LS1Tech, but can't get to that board from work- I will do that later, from home) Appreciate the good info, and someone show sticky this- I didn't even think about needing this part before I started-
There should be a sticky about, if you change your oil pump on a high-mile engine, that you need to replace the O-ring- they take a 'set' and loose their flexibility.
New oil ring, and several hours taking the front of the motor off, AGAIN, solved the problem- thanks for the ideas- ( I responded originally over on LS1Tech, but can't get to that board from work- I will do that later, from home) Appreciate the good info, and someone show sticky this- I didn't even think about needing this part before I started-
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