Alright...


Recommend a Heads/Cam package that will get me over 400+ horses & torque to the wheels. Thats what I want.

It's a street daily driven car, can you predict any kind of mileage I'll be getting with my gas? How long will the power last through the rpm band, and where will redline roughly be? Street car and the track once a week.

I want to smash my friend's supercharged Mustang GT who puts out 380 horses/torque, and thats without any other mods besides his supercharger.

 

A otherwise stock GT (sohc) with a supercharger putting out 380 RWHP? Where's the dyno?
You could get close to 400 RWHP LS6 heads and a cam in the 216/220 @ .570/.580 range. Get some Comp 918 blue stripe springs and Comp pushrods for some added insurance.

 

Call Texas Speed. My buddy has a set of Patriot stage II 5.7 heads and a huge camshaft from them and dynoed 391 with no tuning. His A/F ratios were way off too. He also has Pacesetter LT's with ORY.

 

ive seen guys put down 430-450rwhp with AbsoluteSpeed heads, and TR230 cam

 

You won't even need heads for that... Theres a zillion cams that'd do it without heads:

tr230, tr236, x1, tsp 228, tsp 231/237..

You'll need longtubes, ls6 intake, and a few other boltons.. but on a good tune any of those will make over 400horses


If you want to be a sleeper.. I'd suggest a good set of heads with tr220, 216/220, MTI Stealth Cam, Tr's Old Man Cam.. any of those would make 400rwhp+ with a stock, or slightly choppy idle.

Peace,

 

Just get Pacesetter headers, ORY, and a cutout for all less than $500. An LS6 intake, lid for about $400. You can port your MAF and TB at home for free, check out installuniversity.com for that. You can also get a smooth bellows from Home Depot out of do it yourself parts for about $10. Jack the windsheild bottle out and for less than a $1000 your car can breathe really nicely to maximize the potential of heads cam. You should easily get into the 340+ rwhp range with this alone. A good sized cam if you dont wanna screw up idle too much is a 228/230 cam, it will be a little rough comparing to stock but still daily driveable. Patriot has really good deals on heads. Be sure to get Stage 2 heads though. Stage 1 is a good solid waste of money as they dont perform too much better than stock. With that H/C and the bolt ons you will get 420+ rwhp easy with a tune. Then if you have enough money left over a 3500 stall with some DRs and you should be pulling low 11 time slips easily maybe 10s. Some spray will put you in the 10s for sure.

NOTE: I would STRONGLY recommend getting a stall before a cam, but its up to you and how you wanna set up your ride.

 

I WOULDN'T call them, those numbers sound terrible (depending on how huge the cam is). I consider the G5-X2 cam to be huge, and with full exhaust will make 420+ rwhp on STOCK heads.


Where do you want the rpm range to be, and how terrible are you willing to go on gas mileage?


Personally, i'd go with a powerdyne. You can find them for 1500-2000 used, and will make over 400hp/tq and drive much better than a heads/cam car.


-Mike

 

Mikael is right those numbers BLOW REALLY BAD, even with no tune.

 

Mike,

You wouldn't call us because you see someone post results from ONE setup? Sounds like you do a lot of research before you buy parts or packages. All I'm saying is maybe you should do some research(on other boards as well) on some of our packages and the numbers they put out before you go making judgements about whether or not you call us.
The last couple of local cars that have come through for Patriot heads(5.3) and cam(231/237) have put down over 440RWHP with all the bolt-ons. There are multiple cars out there running just our 231/237 with bolt-ons putting out 400+RW.

I will be more than happy to find the dyno graphs of the heads/cam cars and post them up Monday or Tuesday.

Thanks!

Brian

 

I made 425rwhp with a set of CNC Stage II heads and a low(er) lift, big duration cam. I also have Hooker LTs, LS6 intake, ASP pulley and a Dynomouth exhaust. I think with a ported TB and true duals, I could hit 440rwhp.

 

I agree i put down 385RWHP and 371RWTQ with all the bolt ons and a sm-med size cam(see sigs for mods) But with good set of heads around 420-450 I would think. I have a friend who will take a set of LS1 heads and have them full CNC ported and will charge about$2,000 and your heads as trade in so their I guess a stage 3, very good deal.

 

Some of you guys really need to be specific on what kind of horsepower you are talking about. Flywheel or dyno? Mustang Dyno or Dyjojet? Automatic transmission or manual? It all matters when you are talking about one car's power comparing to another.

I have 331 RWHP on a Mustang Dyno. With my manual transmission, that means I am making something like over 370 at the flywheel. I could very easily say that I have over 370 hp on a relatively stock LS1 Camaro.

 

I've also seen more than one person post and whine about how all they could get out a G5-X2 was 370 with a full tune ...

It's all relative to what you start with ... 400 rwhp through a M6 and a 10 bolt, isn't the same as 400 rwhp through a TH400 and a 12 bolt ...

As to beating the Mustang .. what's his ET/MPH? Work the problem for the right solution. You can get yourself to 400rwhp and still get beat ... you can run low 12s high 11s on 330rwhp as well as high 12s low 13s on 400rwhp ...

 

My friend's mustang runs 12.9's, and thats on street tires - he still gets 2.0x 60's as well.

I know that my car with drags should be able to hit that, but then he'll just spend money on exhaust and I'll be in the same boat.

If I can produce 400+rwhp/tq I know I'll spank him around on the highway and the track, and that will give me time for let him try to recover. Remember, he's got alot of mods to go... stock GT+supercharger.

What cam is best for my street driven car, so that it will idle smoothe, and produce tons of power, while hopefully getting me 20+mpg?

 

don't forget altitude too (air density)