Hello all.

I just broke my second set of 4:10 gears in the stock carrier in my 2000 SS, and so
I've decided to upgrade the whole rear diff to prevent the need to replace the gears
again any time soon. However in the new setup, I plan to go with 3:73s, since
4:10s would be too low for the supercharger I plan to have installed in the near future.

The problem is that there are certain things about rear diffs which are a mystery to me... for instance, what difference does the number of splines make? And on a 12-bolt, what's the difference between Full Spool, C-Clip axles, and non-C-Clip axles (looking at http://www.spohn.net/index.cfm?fusea...productid=52)?

I'm hoping to get this figured out pretty quick so I can get the parts on their way, and can get the car back in its feet. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Hot Pastrami

------------------
Onyx Black 2000 SS M6
!CAGS
160* Thermostat
Flowmaster
Direct-Flo Lid
4.10 gears
Z06 clutch
Hypertech Power Programmer
NEXT: H/C or 6psi SC...undecided

 

That sucks i have nothing to help you maybe you can help me. I just had a set of 410s put in my 01 ws6 and got to take it back to get resetup, because they wine bad, do yours wine at all? why do your gears keep breaking? what are you doing to cause this? was it worth the swap to the higer gear performace wise? what are you running in a 1/4. thanks alot havent had a good chance to drive my car.

 

Yeah, my gears whined a little, but mostly between certain RPM ranges, and it wasn't too noticeable. Very liveable. Quality of the gears as well as quality of the install work will both effect how much noise the gears generate.

My gears keep breaking because Chevy puts a sissy little 7.5 inch rear end in these cars, so the 4:10s have to be made pretty small to fit in that carrier. Smaller gears means weaker gears. That's why I'm swapping to a 12-bolt.

As far as performace, I am convinced that a 6-speed LS1 is made for 4:10s. It drove perfectly in town with those gears, great for stoplight-to-stoplight racing, and freeway performance is still awesome. Only drawback is that you'll be hitting 5th on the 1/4 mile. I absolutely love my 4:10s (when they're not broken).

As far as 1/4 mile times, I can't help you. Haven't had it to the track since I first bought it... most of what I see is on the street. But there isn't much in town that can beat me now, the gears give a real edge off the line if you can master the launch.

Good luck and enjoy the gears,

Hot Pastrami


------------------
Onyx Black 2000 SS M6
!CAGS
160* Thermostat
Flowmaster
Direct-Flo Lid
4.10 gears
Z06 clutch
Hypertech Power Programmer
NEXT: H/C or 6psi SC...undecided

 

Swapping the differential and changing to a 12 bolt are two different things. Waaaaay different.

You may want to check out: http://www.moserengineering.com if you are looking to go to a 12 bolt. Call them up and ask questions. I spoke with Rob Moser before I purchased my rear and he was very helpful.

If you are just changing differentials, check out: http://www.auburngear.com and call them up too and ask questions. The proseries is pretty rugged.

Of the two options, if you plan on racing and making your car faster, strongly consider the 12 bolt. It isn't cheap and should last a long time. It will make some noise (most likely), but long term it is the better investment.

If you are just going to the track a couple of time a year, look at the Auburn Pro unit.

Just my .02

------------------
'94 Black Z28, 383, 700R4
1/8 ET: 7.49
1/4 ET: 11.86
1/4 MPH: 112
http://www.downtime.cz28.com.index.html

 

Splines are kind of the number of teeth that allows the female and male to match... I would suggest you get the 33 spline... will allow for better power-distribution on your rear-axle.

I would strongly recommend you get the C-clip eliminator... C-clips are a bad design from GM.

That's wht holds your spool together... if you were to race with your car on track, with C-clips, you have the chance of loosing the wheel on a curve if that clip brakes.

I personnaly rather have it solid than having my wheel-setup held by a c-clip on each side

My 2 cents.

 

Where can you get the C clip eliminator?

------------------
--Michael
'01 Camaro SS A4
Mods Include:
Superior 3.73 Gears, Jet Chip Racing Chip, K&N Air Filter, Free Ram Air Cut-out, Granatelli MAF, Whisper Induction Lid, Corsa Cat-back Exhaust, Jet PCM Controller--Calibrates for my gears, Auburn Carrier, Hypertech 160 Degree Thermostat, SLP Strut Tower Brace, Sub Frame Connectors, Throttle Body Bypass, Powerslot Slotted Rotors, Hawk Performance Brake Pads.

Best 1/4: 13.192 @ 106.38MPH w/2.086 60' on GoodYear Eagle F1 tires.

Recent 1/4 run on 4/10/02: 13.502 with a 2.367 60' on 275x40ZR17 Dunlop SP sports, without the 160 thermostat, STB, SFC, or TB Bypass--With Some DR's, maybe run a 12.8, or 12.7? Fingers crossed. Headers coming soon.

See "Cammie" at http://members.cardomain.com/ozorowsky

 

Let's say I insist on sticking with my current rear end and swap for 4:10's. What advice can you give me. slpeng.com the place to go? Is the computer speed box tricky to install? I'd love to get more low end and also use 5th and 6th gear. Thanks for all advice
-------------------------
01 SS Red Convert, M6 Hrst, all SLP options with center exhaust, FIPK, Nittos

 

madmanmike:

My advice would be to perpetually save for your next annual gear change if you go with 4:10s. They're dang fun, and they really wake up the car's low-end, but they're fragile, especially when you're on some sticky tires like those Nittos.

The speedo changer was a very simple install... a couple of wires clipped into a litle box... but it caused serious problems with my cruise control, so I eventually just bought me a HPP+. Which, by the way, I'll be selling soon, if anybody is looking for one. I gotta go back to stock programming before I get my 6# supercharger installed and the ECM adjusted for that.

Later,

Hot Pastrami

------------------
Onyx Black 2000 SS M6
!CAGS
160* Thermostat
Flowmaster
Direct-Flo Lid
4.10 gears
Z06 clutch
Hypertech Power Programmer
NEXT: H/C or 6psi SC...undecided

 

I know you can get the C-Clip eliminator kit when purchasing a 12-bolt, but don't know if you can simply just buy that off the shelve... I guess you'll have to look into it.

Eugenio_SS