Torque management is part of the smooth shifting of an automatic. M6 cars don't have it as bad as they have their own torque management, ie the driver's foot. On a shift the drivers right foot comes off the gas, the clutch goes in, the driver then stomps on it.

Torque management on automatics explained:

When shifting, the pcm will reduce timing in order to reduce the torque generated on the engine. Well why is this done? This is to lessen the force applied to the drivetrain. Once the drivetrain has rengaged with the engine, the timing is brought back to normal levels. How bad is it? On 98-99 cars, torque was reduced around 15%. For 00-02 cars, this was raised to almost 40%. What shift does this occur at? It only happens during the 1-2 shift on automatics. This is due to the close nature of the gearing of 1-2 vs the large difference in gearing of the 2-3 shift. As far as overdrive is concerned, you can't get into 4th (0.70) ratio at WOT, so its a moot point. What do I gain if I remove torque management? Maybe a tenth, I don't know for sure, but I figure if tm is off, you will have all torque available to you on the 1-2 shift thus keeping your acceleration more or less constant thus giving you a better trap speed and time hopefully. Trade off is your drivetrain will take a good chunk of abuse for the 1-2 shift. Chirp chirp bang says the 10 bolt.

 

Very good explanation. I can understand why this has to be done with street tires. Believe it or not, my 01 (m6) spins its street tires so hard when shifting fast (not power) into 2nd that unless there's better than average grip with the throttle open, I end up bouncing off the rev limiter before I realize I've lost all traction. I thought about getting stickier tires but worry a little about the drive train. I already removed the restriction in the clutch slave line which apparently adds a little manual torque management of its own.

My LT1 A4 hits 2nd so hard at open throttle that the car fish tails for 50 feet or more before settling down. I can understand why TM is there and I can also see how it would benefit track times with it off if the traction is there.

Thanks!

 

Uh, yes you can. I don't know how the PCM affects the timing directly between shifts, but f-bodies have a mechical linkage to the throttle, not a e-throttle like the Vettes/newer GTOs; I have gone into 4th around a buck thirty with my foot on the floor, and it sure as hell shifts. The torque management on the newer GM's closes the throttle blade between shifts (even on manuals), but without an e-throttle, the PCM has no way of doing this, so the throttle is definetly open on the shift.

 

More on TM from the helms, my '01 manual says the same. Completely deleted mine after my converter install.

www.ls1camaro.net/article.php?sid=50

 

Quote : (The changes you mention with the tuner haven't increased your engine's performance. Turning of the ASR (torque reduction) will make the car feel wild because the computer no longer inhibits wheel spin although I'm pretty sure you must have done this with the switch from time to time? If the hand tuner has a performance option, and you chose it, then you will likely improve your track times. If you break into the 12s I'm going to be impressed. I will watch this thread.)



( Track Times )
Went a best of 13.07, I think the Nitto's are so sticky they slowed me down. I was reving 2500 rpm than side stepping and flooring it and it dead hooked and felt like first gear was very lazy. I had a tranny problem and had to drive over 100 miles home with no 4th gear and popping out of 3rd. I will post more about that in drivetrain...

 

Soooo if you guys say the diablo is a pretty useful little tool, should i hold out for a dyno tune or get a diablo and re-tune every upgrade i make? If a pro dyno tune is only gonna grab me about 5hp more at the wheels, then i'd rather do the diablo.

 

The determining factor should be:
How close is the dyno?
How busy is the shop? Will you have to wait weeks for an appointment?
How good is the tuner? Just because someone has a dyno and software doesn't necessarily make them a good tuner.

And if you buy a Predator make sure that the vendor is a tuner. Some just sell the programmers. Some charge extra for every tune modification.

 

they say this guy in broken arrow (about 9 miles) is supposed to be one of the best at ls1's

 

Darn, I wish. The closest to me is 90 miles and hard to get an appointment with plus I'm getting some mixed reviews. Some of which I'm sure are sour grapes because their cars don't put out what they had imagined.