Well I was considering investing money into my LS1 to make it a little more peppy, but now I'm thinking I might put some use to my iron 6.0. It was going to get disassembled anyway to go to the machine shop so I think I might build a stroker out of it. I had a guy who wanted it, but never came through so I'm not gonna hold my breath anymore. The LS1 has 142k miles on it now, so I'm thinking since it still has life in it I can take my time to build a replacement engine, then set the original on a stand.

Anyway this is what I was thinking. This will be my first HO N/A LS build so somebody please look over this to make sure I'm not messin something up, please. Every LS1 I've built so far were close to stockers. It will be a driver.

iron 6.0 block
bored to 4.030, 4" stroke, 6.125" rod
aluminum flywheel and centerforce clutch
L72/L96 head and intake combo, out of the box
G5X3 HR cam (LG), 232/240 112 LSA
OEM roller lifters
comp 918 springs
SLP oil pump and timing chain combo
ARP main stud kit
ARP head bolts (for ease of removal in car)

I figure I can complete the build for $4000-$4500. Quote on machine work was $450 to bore, hone, deck and balance(have friends at a good machine shop) Car already has a NLP 224 cam in it now, longtubes and exhaust, pulleys, etc that will be transferred to the new engine.

Questions, comments, flames?

 

There is no way I would add all that weight to the nose of a Vette, especially with a buildup that mild. Stick with an aluminum block unless you want to kill the handling dynamics in your Vette.

 

I agree

 

could do the Lunati stroker kit for the stock LS1 Block. 383ci.. I understand you'd like the iron block for the added strength, correct?

Pistons?

 

There's 2 options that I think you'll like much better than the iron block and reasonably priced.

1)Keep your LS1 block and do a 383 forged stroker motor, topped off with some Trickflow 215cc, AFR 225cc, or Dart 225cc heads, a FAST 90/90, . (I'd go with the All-Pro or ETP heads over any of these, but they are $$$$$) and a custom grind hydraulic roller cam, preferably from Futral Motorsports or LG Motorsports. If you're set on a shelf-grind, the FM F-15 or LGM G5X4 will work nicely.

2)Get an LS2 Aluminum block, bore/stroke to 402ci (you can get the shortblock for right under $4000), topped off with some L92 heads and a matched L76 intake and the same cam options I previously mentioned.

 

Biggest advantage to the iron block is that I already have it. Didnt cost me a thing. Naturally, if I can sell the motor to the guy who wants to use it, then it wouldnt be a whole lot more just to go with an LS2, in which case I will. If not, I would have to live with the ~90 lb difference.

I would rather stick with a 4" bore so I can take advantage of that new combo. I would think it would be rather difficult to beat flow like that for the price that combo is going for maybe $1500 for the top end?

I dont mind building the engine. I like doing it and it's not that big of a deal, so unless I can save by buying a built shortblock, I will just build it myself.

What about the combo in and of itself? Looking for a noticeable but not overly rough idle, and decent power around 2000 RPM to take off with. Want to be done by 6000, 6500 TOPS.