Hi to everybody
i own a 99 z28 6 speed manual ,130 k miles on the odo, this summer the clutch begun to slip so i thinked to go to something better than stock
I bought a Ralco RZ Stage 2 Carbon Kevlar Clutch Kit from horsepowerfreaks.com and my garage have done the swap
now the new chutch doesn't work well
it doesn't desengage completly , shifting is very very VERY hard , specially downshift, also with the car stopped and the cluth pedal completly pressed is very difficult to shift between the speed, if you put in first with the pedal pressed the car move forward
the guys from the garage assure me that the work was do correctly ( they said to me that there was only a way to put togheter the parts ) and that they have the feeling that the clutch disk have not enough "travel" to desengage completly
In the kit there was an iron round plate to put above the slave cylinder and they have installed, if i increase or decrease the thikness of this plate can this help to desengage completly the clutch disk ?
If someone have some advice or idea about this problem please let me know and help me, here where i live mechanics have no big experience about this kind of car and any suggestion will be VERY welcome
thanks a lot in advance
luigi

 

sounds like you need a tick adjustable master cylinder,or they didnt bleed the clutch good .i had the same problem with my monster 3.the stock hyd. suck the tick pushes a lot more fluid to disingauge the stiffer clutches.

 

It might need a little more thickness to the plate. Often a thin shim has to be added to get complete disengagement.

But the first thing to do is bleed the system a lot. Make sure that there is no air in there at all because the tiniest bit of air will cause the symptoms that you have.

 

hi guys
thanks for your advice
today people from horsepowerfreaks.com answer to my question abuot the kit they sold to me and tell me to DECREASE the thickness of the plate ... to me seem more logic to increase that thickness , as said also by AL SS590 M6 ... what do you think ?
Helppppppppp i'm really confused

 

The slave is a push type in that when you push the pedal down fluid goes into the slave expanding it to push forward on the pressure plate dissengaging the clutch. If it's not totally dissengaging then it needs to push farther, thus more shim is nedded.

 

today update
guys of the garage have bleeded a lot the clutch and do "something" on the pedal to gain little more " travel space " ( i think they put out a littlle bushing under the pedal )
the situation is a little better but not too much , the clutch seems to desengage completly but but is only "barely" usable ... the switch between the speed is still very hard , specially fifth, sixth and reverse and the clutch begin to engage as you lift the pedal a tenth of inch (maybe less) from the
bottom...
with the car stopped and the engine not running the switch between the speed is easy, soft and smooth, both with the pedal pressed or not, if you start the engine all change and the selection of the speed became suddenly very hard also with the pedal pressed til the last millimeter ... the car doesn't move forward ( as before) but it's not that better
i think that also if i put a shim to improve the desengage of the clutch this will not arrange the problem that the clutch engage too early ....
PLEASE let mme have some comment or idea , mine now is that i have to find another garage with a little more knowledge about chevy and clutch ... maybe in milano ...
any idea VERY welcome , thanks a lot in advance

 

It needs a shim.