So today I started my car like any other day to go to school and while it was idling it shut off (I believe it was when I turned on the A/C).

Start the car again, it's idling fine...not sure if the faint whine was my imagination or not......

Pull out and head to school.

CHECK GAUGES light comes on, car stumbles a bit and shuts off while I'm driving (put it in N and started it) and continue to school.

A/C doesn't work anymore (it was ice cold yesterday and everyday prior).

Popped the hood, made sure no connections came loose to include the PCM connection. A/C components aren't cold at all when touching them.

What could be the issue? No engine light on either and the car runs fine and idles fine. A/C is non-existent.

 

Probably a dumb question, but is the AC belt there?

 

Not a dumb question at all!

Yes, both serpentine and accessory belts are still there in place and in good condition.

If the A/C is out, that's one thing but it went out the same time my car died which is what really bugs me about all this.

I had to drive around a few places, and in traffic, and the car runs and acts perfectly normal. Maybe it was the A/C going out that made the car die and fortunately it only happened that time but still...why would that happen?

I'll have someone look at it that specifically works on A/C units, but beforehand I'd like to find the source of my problem in an attempt to take care of it myself.

Friend and his dad (both mechanics and own a shop) couldn't figure it out either. Relays are good for the A/C as well, we swapped them with the fog lamp relay (and yes fog lamps still tested good on the suspect-relay).

 

I guess the next thing is maybe the AC compressor went bad and momentarily locked up, causing the motor to stall. Is the clutch cycling at all when the ac is turned on max?

Maybe pull the belt, and spin it by hand and see if it sounds ok? lot of work, I know.

If the system still has a charge, (get an at home fill kit with a cheapo guage at walmart for like 12-15 bucks. or cheap guages at harbor freight); then I'd try to jumper the connector on it to make sure its not a problem with the controls. Read up on this to make sure the f-bods can be done that way. I know my mustang can, and sometimes to make the compressor run with no charge in the system; you have to do this so it will "prime".

I know this is the "hack" way of checking things, but I got the ac working in my stang and its been holding a charge for 2 years after a "shop" failed to replace the o-rings to the condensor; when they switched it to 134. (before I bought the car).

 

Either disconnect the cycling switch and jump it, or remove the AC clutch relay and jump power to the clutch coil.

Tell us what happens

Oh, and it would be nice if you could also tell us what kind of vehicle you're working on...

 

Kind of lost me there lol....

I switched relays and they're working fine but the A/C is still dead. I'll do some research on what you suggested.

As for the vehicle, it's a '98 Trans Am WS6 (Auto, not sure if that matters).

 

Just for the heck of it scan for any codes - AC codes don't illuminate the SES.

 

I remember someone mentioning that the computer controls the AC and if it trips a certain code; it wont let it work.

If you haven't, reset the computer (unhook battery for ~30 mins, or pull the pcm bat and pcm ign fuses underhood); and see if it works.

Someone jump in if they know for sure that the pcm has AC control. I might be thinking of a diff vehicle.

 

If you jump the cycle switch and the compressor runs, you either have a low charge or a bad cycle switch. Jumping the relay will tell you if the compressor side of the electrical circuit is working. These are the first things you should check when the AC stops working.