No biggie. That's what sites like this are for. 1/4 mile ET's are all about the 60'. With a M6 it gets hairy because they tend to blow up the 10 bolts so easy but stalled autos (like mine) can just rip out of the hole with the right tires. I'm hoping to push a high 11 out with a LS6 intake, underdrive pulley and about 200 lbs of weight reduction. But if properly setup, any cam and bolt-on car (a4 or m6) will be well into 11's unless they are at very high elevations like Denver and parts of New Mexico.

I would go with the F13 if I were you. That cam on a 112 LSA behind an M6 has been putting out fantastic numbers. It's probably the #1 recommended cam on ls1tech. I have a feeling if you go with the F11 that later down the road you'll be wishing you had gone a little bigger.

Good luck either way.

 

I would match the cam to the stall convertor, so plan accordingly...

 

The point I'm making is that YOU need to have at least an idea of what YOU want beside just below 12's and daily driving. Otherwise all you're going to get is people telling you to run what they are or would run. It'll be all opinion until then.
Narrow your parameters. Are you wanting to spin to 7k rpm to make peak hp or have your power in by 6k, do you want lope or to be a sleeper, do you need to pass emissions, is cost a factor, are you looking for an off the shelf grind or custom, how often do you want to be changing springs, is spring longevity even a factor, what are you future plans, what are your supporting mods???

See what I'm talking about yet?

Your question is about as broad as coming in and asking, "What should I have for lunch tomorrow?" How should we answer that? We know nothing about what your likes/dislikes, what your pallet can handle or what you may be allergic to. What do you think people will tell you? Probably what they're craving.

Don't like what I have to say? Tough, because this is the reality of it. You will get nothing but opinion until you have a better idea of what YOU want.

If you're wanting an simple explanation of cam specs? Fine! Ask THAT question so you can make an informed descision instead of going off the common concensus. I'd be more than happy to give a broad overview on cam specs.

Excuse me for expecting people to not be such lemmings.

 

hey greed,, I'm looking at the basic bolt ons.Lid, ported tb, stall, 3.73s, qtp headers and y pipe, plus later on down the line ported heads and the cam. I think I can get away with a shelf grind. Want the power by 6k. I'm going for speed and daily drivability now, and possibly all out drag racing in a few years. I have 50k now, by then probably around 75k. Will that be an issue? Of couse $ is an issue, if it wasn't I would have just taken it to a shop, handed them $10k and said make it fast. How often to change out the springs, I don't know. We'll see how I drive with some speed available.

ps I'm a lemming? I can't get mad b/c that's the funniest put down I have ever heard.

 

I think his lemming metaphor is funny also. Because thats what it sounded like you were headed for... the drop-off. Sheesh greed dont get mad lol. We all love u!haha

Maro- I am about like you, i kinda change my mind alot and I can get along driving anything. Thats why I'm suggesting waht I'm going to buy. Its not really what my apetite is, but what i think you should go with. A cam like the f13/14 will give you some serious power, and low 12's to 11's. Then if you want to shell out more cash in the future, add a better bottom end and heads + an NO2 shot and be in the mid-low 11's

 

not many cams on the market are designed to get power in by 6K rpm.

especially not the bigger power cams.

my TSP torquer makes killer torque across the board, but peaks hp at about 6500rpm.

the LSx engine flows so well in the top end, it's hard to not take advantage of that.

 

I red line at 5.5k. plus the milage already on the vehicle. How's your ride holding up 184? How many miles do you have, and how hard to you push it?

 

say what???

your factory red line is 6200rpm or something like that!!!

the car is running good. holding up well after a close call with hurricane wilma...she got a bit water logged.

cam is alot of fun now that i have some good tires to keep her planted.

still surging alot from the poor part-throttle tune. debating on getting heads and new tune....or saving the money for other things (boat or bling for my girl's hand)...and just getting a good tune and staying cam only.

i've got about 5k miles on it i'd say since the cam (64k total), nothing major. it's my primary car but i ride my bike to work almost every day. so basically it's my grocery getter

would really love to get a good tune, and redyno it since i've put the true duals, clutch w/ alum flywheel, roller rockers and fixed some bugs. i'm very comfident i'd break 400rwhp now. was kindda disapointed with 382hp.

but that was through a single 3" catback, iffy tune and come to find out my throttle blade was only opening about 85% due to misadjusted throttle cable now it's got the bumpstop ground down, and properly adjusted cable and it opens 98%

 

It'll be difficult to break the 12's with an off the shelf grind cam that'll get your power in by 6k w/out heads.
How much lope are you expecting? Do you need to pass emissions?
See, you need more research into this before we can logically answer your question.

Glad you like the lemming comment. Nothing was written to anger you, just to get you to realise how broad of a question you asked and that you need to know more for us to be able to help you beyond opinions.

 

Yeah dude, redline is in the 6k's and I've heard of some people spining the motor to 6500+ stock.

 

I'm looking for a cam with an agressing ramp, that'll give me good low end torque. I want a good push off the line without sacrificing too much top end. Is that asking too much? I'll get back to you on the emissions part. My buddy says he knows a place where I can get a brake tag without inspection(new orleans,la by the way). My factory gague reds at 5500. Is GM just being conservative? I know people that make a living off rebuilding GM transmissions, so I just want to be careful. A fast ride with no tranny ain't worth ****! I read the cam guide, but maybe someone can help me a little more. Take the f13/14 what do all these numbers means, like 224/230, 114-2 etc...I know it explained this in cam guide but I need a crib note explanation if anybody can. This could help me determine if I may need a custom grind. I just want a general idea of what I'm gonna be looking for when it comes time. thanks!!

 

i think your best bet is going to be to go with a mild cam, and some good small runner heads like the Dart 205s. the cam will make good power at a reasonable level, and the small intake runner of the heads will keep velocity up and boost your low and mid range power.

do a search for my cam ...TSP torquer...i have a dyno graph posted. it shows the flat torque curve from 3500-6300rpm. i'm hoping to boost that even more with the Dart 205s.

as for the cam numbers...using my cam as an example: 233/233 .589/.589 112lobe

the first 233 is the duration in degrees (as the cam spins 360deg) that lift is generated on the intake valve. basically how long the valve is open from when it first starts to move to when it closes fully.

the second 233 is the duration of lift on the exhaust valve.

the second pair of numbers is the amount of lift that the cam generates. first is the intake valve, second is the exhaust.

the last number is the lobe separation, the number of degrees that the peak of the intake lobe is separated from the exhaust port. typically the higher the lobe angle, the better the idle, higher the peak power, and easier on emissions the cam is. examples of that would be 114-117 degrees. while a choppier cam is something like 112 or 110, which will make power lower, have a rougher idle, and probably not pass emissions. it's a trade off.

 

Teke pretty well covered it.
For emissions, you have to figure overlap which is based on duration and lsa. A 224 duration @ 114 LSA is the most you'll want to try to pass emissions.

Generally, the more duration the more power you'll make, but it'll be in higher RPM. Shorter duration gives power in lower RPM and the torque numbers are usually closer to hp numbers.

If you want an agressive ramp rate, you'll be changing springs more often and will be better off getting some good dual springs.

If you want to take the time to research things, look into the short duration tight LSA custom ground cams. They don't cost anymore than an off the shelf grind. If you end up buying a new cam, from what you've been saying I think these would be your best bet.

They key with anything is SET UP!!! You can have a big cam and get beat by small cammed cars just because they have a good set up that keeps them in theri power band.

Oh and to answer your earlier question about used cams. Hell ya! You can find some great deals. I'd steer clear of used F13 cams though. They had some problems with the blanks for a while. Get used hardened pushrods too.

The place NOT to go cheap...springs, but you can get a Patriot Gold kit (same as the PRC springs) for $250 shipped.

Also the LS2 timing chain is a great part at a great price. ~$40.

 

I'm thinkin QTP headers and y pipe with QTEP, I already have a magnaflow catback. Lid, maybe CAI, and I think I might stick with stock intake manifold. I'm not sure if I'll port and polish the stock heads and tb or go with different one. Should I look for a reverse split cam? I really don't want to have to go back and get a new cam in a year or two.

 

your car came with the ls6 intake from the factory, no reason to upgrade that till much farther down the road. only logical step up would be the $1200 FAST LSx 90mm intake and matching TB.

heads are a big help if you're trying to stay street friendly. you can go smaller on the cam but still make big numbers from the added flow of the heads.

ported stockers are good, but there are a few new head designs out there that are really making a name for themselves. namely the Dart Pro 1s and the TrickFlow.

if you're gonna do any cai...go for the SSRA. much better than the other cai kits out there. at slower speeds it acts as a regular cai, but at higher speeds it becomes a true ramair. do a search...lots on it.

no real need to upgrade the TB...there isn't much to be gained. if nothing else just port the stocker. frees up a little more air flow. nothing crazy but it can't hurt.