I just bought a 98 Z28, M6, black, leather, 75k, T-Tops, paid $9,950. It's bone stock. My goal is to run mid 12's with a minimal cash investment. What is the best combination of parts to reach this goal. I'm new to American Muscle cars. My last car was a 91 300zx Twin Turbo. Money is tight, so the performance/dollar ratio is important.
Thanks in advance.

 

Just learn how to drive it to its max capacity, then get some drag radials and you will be there most likley

 

others have posted things like a different pulley, cams, headers, gears, torque converter, beefed up axle, etc...etc..and i guess nos.

 

Congrats on your car. I just got the same thing, '99 though with a few less miles. Well, first off LS1s are expensive. A lid is a must, pullies wouldn't be a bad idea, even a CAI might help. Those will put you at high 12s probably. Tires would do it the rest of the way and gears would benefit even more.

That would probably be your best bet to save some money route imo. Headers really wake these cars up, but are very damn expensive. A cam would also work some wonders too. Of course, the cheapest route you could take would be some nitrous. I think a 100-150 shot would put you nicely in the mid 12s with no other mods.

 

sorry, i am a bit more scientific so to minimize any waste of $ I would get to a track and on a dyno..

see what the car is doing right now..

From there make adjustments to your car...

Often times people think POWER POWER POWER... They are running 2.1 short times and think.. hmm I ran 13.2... I need more power... In reality they need traction.. Power without it is worthless.. Get tire first so you have traction.. from there, see what your ET is.. IF you are not already at the 12's, then add power and more traction (LCA's, Panhard, Poly Bushings, etc...)

Most people start off with a lid and a filter (i would suggest a Holley over a K&N since it fits better and is essentailly the same)

From there see what you need...

Good luck..

 

Whats wrong with my reply? If you cant drive the car well then you cant very well get into the 12s can you....Drag radials and good launch will put you in the 12s...People dont get it that they can have all mods on in the world and if they cant drive their car, they are useless to them......Read psychocabbage's reply, he gets what I am saying, in fact we are basically saying the same thing. Most people go and change their cars around so often that they can never maximize the potential the car has cause the car is never the same as it was before. I know multiple people who with drag radials alone are in the 12's...My TA alone when it was stock ran 12.7 with dr's and a 4k launch...I know a bonestock WS6 running 12.6 as well with dr's...12's are not that fast when you think about it...If you can cut your 60fts down with an M6 car and some Dr's then you will hit the 12s....

In your reply you said "torque convertor"...Where do those go on a 6spd car? A good cam will get you in the low 12/11 sec if you have headers and a stout rear end and some driving skill...Go to www.ls1tech.com and read around there some...

 

Good Drag Radials and N20 will get you into the 12's

 

Hey, congrats on the car from me too!
I also have a 98 M6 Z. Also, just like you, I have little cash to work with because I have so many other 'irons in the fire'.

Here are some suggestions on the cheap (as possible):
Free mods. www.installuniversity.com is a good place to start.
FRA is a must (free ram air)
Free thermostat mod http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=180
Auto fan switch (~$20) http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=222
TB bypass (~$5 from auto parts store)
Throttle stop mod (Get the throttle blade opening fully for free)
Lid (high priced at ~$100 IMO, but is a quick source of HP)
Dynomouth (The absolute best bang for the $ exhaust at ~$140 with install)
Smooth bellow for $12.80
Putting your car on a diet! 100 lbs is worth .1 second in the quarter. (totally free)
*The Dynomouth saves you about 15 lbs, then you can get into things like the spare, back seats, running .25 tank of fuel (7 lbs a gallon) when at the track, running with the window wash tank empty (weight off the nose of the car is very good), and if you are really into weight loss the possibilities are endless.
= $277.80

Those are the easy and relatively cheap things. Good driving with these things should get you very close to your goal if not high 12s. Sticky tires would surely do the rest if you shelled out the dough for them. You do have to be careful with sticky tires though, our rear ends are not very strong, and if you hook, their days are numbered. On a further note, 4.10 gears are very fun in an M6 (on the expensive side though). You could also try MAF ends or a ported MAF with an M6 (ported is free), but be careful of detonation. If you do the stat and fan mods along with the TB bypass, you have less chance of detonation, and will make good power with this mod. Lastly, get rid of the old plugs. Shorten the gap a little to .040". The best plugs made IMO are the standard Bosch platnums. Nothing fancy. No platnum disc to fall into the engine like other platnums, however it's no standard plug that has to be changed every few thousand miles.
Good luck
Dave

Btw, I have a couple pages of mods I have done to my 98 that you might like to look at on my site.

 

Well i don't have a LS1 but from what i have heard a Lid and a cut out would probably add 35 hp or so and only cost like 250bucks. Cut out some say 20ish on LT1's and i would think a LS1 would benefit more since they breathe better anyways. A lid would be 15hp probably. Congrats on the lucky find i wish i could have an LS1 that is cheap for around here. I think it said you were in fort riley kansas, you should look up my fellow fbody friend Brad, his name is Turbo_z he goes to KSU he knows someother fbody guys around there. I am sure he would like to get a chance to run his LT1 against a LS1 and get his butt handed to him .

 

Wow, thanks for all the respones. It looks to me like the free mods, plus a lid and dynomouth exhaust+ tune-up and good driving is all I need. However I'm not so sure about the platinum plugs, I perfer NGK. Replacing the plugs every few thousand is way to much of a hassle. I may also spring for headers, which are the best? I've noticed alot of people have Hooker LT's. If I install these will I have to do any ECU reprogramming, such as with the JET module?
Z95m6....I'll try to find Turbo_z, I don't know anyone around here into F bodies yet.

Thanks again

 

Learn to drive, some minor intake work, shorties, and drag radials..... easy 12's.

 

Cobrakilla

I owe you a big apology...as you can see, i edited my first post to take out my stupid comments. sorry, i was a bit drunk when i wrote that post... you are right, and i didn't mean to get on your case... you mean well. sorry.

 

You shouldn't need a whole lot to do mid12s if your driving skills are average or better. Sticky tires are a must for your short time. Cheap mod route would be lid, used MAC headers, no cats, tuneup, cutout, free mods and traction. IMO TB bypass is a worthless mod, 80mmTB is a worthless mod, K&N is a worthless mod. Eliminate weight wherever possible, lose the AIR and EGR, move the battery back and/or get a lightweight one. You can also take off the front swaybar and bumper support. Make sure you ice the manifold between runs and don't overrev between shifts (tagging the limiter or going over the power band). Good luck!

 

Hey its cool dont worry about it...It happens all the time. I just dont like to see people keep throwing parts at their car when the real problem is they never take the time to learn their car well enough. But yea take it easy.
L8r,
Brad

 

Why would you say the TB bypass is worthless, then proceed to tell him to ice his manifold down?
Both actions work towards the same end and compliment each other. If you let the TB get hot, the ice will have much less of an effect than if it didn't have to contend with that extra heat. Are you actually aware of how much heat you lose by doing the bypass? It is the difference between painfully burning your hand and luke warm to the touch.
Just curious why you are contradicting yourself. Most folks that think the bypass doesn't work don't do that.
Dave