i have a car with 2.73's is there any thing i can do to wake it up without adding a converter or nitrous ?

or will it just be more money trying to make it fast without the converter or nitrous buying all the bolt on's

what should i do next to get my car in the high 12's with out the TC or N2O i alreay ordered my lid

 

I've never had a converter changed, but as far I've learned, it seems to be fairly simple operation and you can still enjoy everyday driving, depending on the specs, of course. But why not get a TC?

Want to get to high 12's? Since you already ordered a lid, get yourself a pair of sticky tires to the rear and you could very well be in there already.

Maybe one of those ram air/cold air systems, too, to help at the top end.

Then headers and Y-pipe and you are definetely deep in the high 12's.

TS

 

All the bolt ons, sticky tires, some track experience, knock a couple hundred punds off your race weight and catch some good air at the track ... and you you will probably dip into the high 12s, on occasion, on a stock TC and 2.73 gears.

Add TC, even something relatively mild - 3000/3200 stall - with gears and you will be a consistant mid to high 12 second car ...

 

so with lid and headers do u think it will run high 12's or will i need all the other bolt on's becouse if it's gonna take that i will just shell out the money and put in a new TC and hope the tanny holds together

 

There's a difference between running 12s and occasionally hitting a 12 ... with just a lid and headers, with the right track prep, good weather, sticky tires and if you are a good enough driver ... you might on occasion hit a 12 ... maybe even a deep 12 ... but for the most part you will be running low 13s ...

 

i want to run 12.9 most of the time it's ok if a few passes are higher or lower

but i guess what i'm asking is for the cheapest plan to run high 12's the reason's why i didn't want to swap gears or get a TC is the price and not wanting to rebuild the tranny but what i'm finding out is that the bolt on's are getting to be about the same price

so could some one give me a guide to follow to run where a want to be and at the lowest price and i know this isn't a exact science

keep in mind already have a cutout

 

Unfortunately more speed costs lots more $$$.

If you want to get 12's without nitrous, TC and or gears then here is what I figure it'll cost you minus the lid and cutout you allready have.

SSRA/FTRA $200

LT headers $500 (really 1k but you can get used or PS for 500)

ASP underdrive pulley $120

pair of nitto 555r drag radials $300

Baur throttle body $150

LS6 intake $500

SFC $120

Predator tune $400

I think the above with a decent track prep and elevation you will get high 12's but at a cost over $2k. This is assuming your car can pull a 13.5 stock and the Nittos are actually the biggest gain in that list. Plus you might have to add install fees if headers and the ls6 are not in your abilities to do yourself.

However you can go another way.

TCI SSF 3500 stall torque converter $500

Nitto 555r drag radials $300

B & M trans cooler $100

TC & trans cooler installed at a HP shop with a tune $500


That should also net you high 12's and at a cost of $1400. Plus the 3500 TC will eliminate all your dead spots (imagine punching the gas at 35 MPH and having your car throw you back in your seat). As long as you get a trans cooler your trans should last awhile. I know it's expensive but it's the best mod the A4 cars can do and I truely believe the least expensive way for non-freak ls1 a4's to hit 12's consistantly.

You can also get a 100 or 125 shot of nitrous with all the safety stuff and extras for about 1k total. Then add another $300 for the nittos and your at $1300 for probably mid 12's but only when your on the juice. I think the TC is a better route.

First thing I would do is get a helmet and some drag radials or ET streets. Then go to the track and see what you can run so you know how much you need to shave off.

Good Luck

 

thanks alot the TC looks like the way to now that you laid it out before i started posting here some friends gave me the impression that all it took was a lid, cutout , and a ram air and you were there

but if think my 80,000 mile tranny would hold up to i'll probly go get a TC thanks alot

i might be back here with more questions once i go to the spped shop tommarow.

 

If you want to do it real cheap ... put the car on a radical diet ... no front sway bar, no back seats, no passenger seat, get a $37 racing seat for the driver side from Summit, keep only the driver seat belt, no AC, no washer reservior, no AIR, no EGR, no airbags, no stereo, no speakers, get an Odessy battery $70, short belt, pull the front and rear bumper supports ...

All it takes is sweat on your part and you only spent a $100 ... the other thing to do is mod your car as can and watch the classifieds and take advantage of your opportunities ... My H/C only cost me $2200, inlcuding dealer install ... ASP pully $125 installed, Random Tech torque arm w/drive shaft loop, $200 installed, FLP headers w/ race pipe and cats $700, Yank 3000 TC $300/$125 for a refresh and restall, 3.73 gear $75, Crane 1.8 rockers $300, MMS ported TB $100 ...

Good Luck ...

 

TC's are a great addition to an A4 car, dunno why you wouldn't want to get one. If you're concerned about streetability, I had a Vig 3200 in my car and it was perfectly fine. If you want, just get a 2800 or something. And gears? Get 3.42's man, ditch the 2.73's. Other then that, headers, cat-back, etc.

 

so if i get a mild TC and a trans cooler would there be very much added strain on the Tranny and if i went with like a 3200 would there be any need for gears

i'm trying to keep the cost low

 

TTT

 

Yes there will be added strain on the tranny. I would still highly recommend it anyway. The extra strain will be kept to a minimum with the use of a trans cooler. My guess is that you may lose as much as 20% of the total life of your 4l60e tranny by installing and using a 3200 stall or higher TC. But think about it like this.

Would you rather have your trans last 80,000 miles with dead spots that make you feel slow when you gun it at certain MPH, slow you down at the track with bad 60' times and allow any M6 LS1 to pull you off the line on the street or at the track.

Or would you rather have your 4l60e last 65,000 miles with no dead spots so you can gun it with confidence at any speed, increase your 60' capability from the 2.0 range to possible 1.5's but probable 1.7's (with proper tires and practice of course) and be able to beat the M6 brothers/sisters who constantly talk smack about A4's because they are "boring, use more gas and slower off the line".

I like option "B" better. As far as gears go all I can say is I would recommend getting better gears but not right away.

First thing I would do is get a pair of Drag Radiels or ET streets for the back and a helmet that is NHRA approved. Then hit the track and see what your car can do with your stock gears and converter. Then save up and buy a 3200-3500 stall TC and tranny cooler. Get them installed and tune the car if needed/delete torque management. Now run the car again and see the huge difference. The gears will still hold you back some but you should be in the 12's.

Then just buy a used set of 3.42's or a new set of 3.73's and have them installed and speedo adjusted. Now you will rock like you wouldn't believe at the track. Gas milage will go down a bit but who really cares. You probably didn't buy an LS1 for fuel economy.

Get both eventually but do the TC/tranny cooler first. You'll be glad you did. Then when the tranny eventually goes south, use it as an excuse to upgrade to a better trans like a th400 or something.

I hope this helps,

 

well the old tranny (as far as i know bought the car used) has lasted 84,000 miles no problem no slipping still shifts hard so it's bond to go south soon so what the hell i'll just go buy a TC

any suggestions on brand and what stall 3200 or higher lower

i wish i could tell how much life the tranny had left in her though all i got when i bought the car was the receipt for the new engine (just a new ls1) nothing about anything else

 

o, you ONLY got a new engine....... poor thing ur so lucky man!