BMR Tunnel Brace: Is it worth it?
BMR Tunnel Brace: Is it worth it?
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm ----> 2nd product down...
"Strengthen the floorpan and reinforce the driveshaft tunnel with a BMR tunnel brace. Replaces existing stamped brace and requires no welding or holes to drill. Made with 3/16" mounting plates and 1.25" tubing for maximum rigidity. "
What do you all think? It's pretty cheap, and seems easy enough to throw on. Do you think it'll be as noticable as a strut brace or subframe connectors are? Do you think $90 is too much... if so, how much would be reasonable for this type of peice?
"Strengthen the floorpan and reinforce the driveshaft tunnel with a BMR tunnel brace. Replaces existing stamped brace and requires no welding or holes to drill. Made with 3/16" mounting plates and 1.25" tubing for maximum rigidity. "
What do you all think? It's pretty cheap, and seems easy enough to throw on. Do you think it'll be as noticable as a strut brace or subframe connectors are? Do you think $90 is too much... if so, how much would be reasonable for this type of peice?
To me it seems similar to a k-member brace for a mustang...
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/kbrace.asp
They are made to strengthen the front of the car from the bottom, rather than the top like the strut brace. I thought that anything would be a decent improvment. Any other opinions?
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/kbrace.asp
They are made to strengthen the front of the car from the bottom, rather than the top like the strut brace. I thought that anything would be a decent improvment. Any other opinions?
If you get Double Diamond SFC's you shouldn't need this. I don't think you will reall notice much difference anyway. Also be careful getting the loop above it. I had serious clearance issues. I could never really get it to clear the y-pipe with more than 1//8" and then when I jacked up the rear or hit a hard enough bump, the torque arm hit it. I also had to drill extra holes in the loop to give me enough clearance so the it cleared the exhaust and DS. I have since yanked it off. I can make you a god deal on it!
I have the SLP bolt on SFC on my vehicle, and I coulped it with the BMR tunnel brace, for it is this brace that is the tie in point for the SFC. If I used the stock wavey POS, that would become the weakest link in the chain. For $89 you can't go wrong.
JMHO
SteveC
JMHO
SteveC
Can't use it with a lowered car. BMR redesigned it from that picture to make room for aftermarket Y pipes, so on the passenger side there is a slight bend/kink down.
I'm lowered 1.3" front, 1.5" back (approx, G2 springs) and I was scraping it on even the smallest speedbump, the driveway, lots of stuff. PITA, so took it off.
I'm lowered 1.3" front, 1.5" back (approx, G2 springs) and I was scraping it on even the smallest speedbump, the driveway, lots of stuff. PITA, so took it off.
First, it doesn't whether or not you have diamond subframe connectors from SLP or KB. The tunnel brace connects the two pieces
That said, if you're going to mount something there, you may as well make it the driveshaft safety loop since it uses the identical holes. I initially bought the BMR loop but switched to the G2 loop because if the BMR wasn't rubbing on the y-pipe, it was rubbing on the torque arm. And if it wasn't rubbing one of those, it was hitting the tunnel.
That said, if you're going to mount something there, you may as well make it the driveshaft safety loop since it uses the identical holes. I initially bought the BMR loop but switched to the G2 loop because if the BMR wasn't rubbing on the y-pipe, it was rubbing on the torque arm. And if it wasn't rubbing one of those, it was hitting the tunnel.
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