Ok, I've done some research and know a little of my options. This is where I have some questions.

Here is what I'm looking for:
-STOCK displacement LS1
-no Forced Ind, no juice
-no HUGE nasty cam
-Street driveable and reliable - this is the key
-475 rwhp @ 20% driveline loss works to ~ 600 flywheel hp.


Here is what I will be doing in preparation:
-high strength aluminum driveshaft
-Stage 2 4L60E (600hp, 650 ftlbs) from cmotorsports.com
-Vig 3000 stall
-tranny cooler
-suspension to handle the power
-Rearend......???


Here are my questions:
1. With that much power, can i beef up the stock 10 bol? : with (30, 31, 33? spline axles), tougher limited slip, TA cover (also want to go with 3.42:1 gears)
2. With Stage 2 heads, a moderate cam, excellent tuning, will that achieve the 475 i'm looking for?
3. If not, will forged internals: pistons, crankshaft (if there are any), balancing and blueprinting the engine get the power i'm looking for?
4. If I can't use a beefed up rear end, what rear end should I get? I have a BMR adj. torque arm, that can't work with a 12 bolt, so what would i need to get that would work.

PS. I'm not setting a price limit here. Well....under $10k.

 

Negative, Ghostrider.

1) Beefing up the stock 10 bolt is the waste of money. Just ditch it completely for a Moser 12 bolt.

2) To get near 475rwhp in an A4, will require the huge "nasty" cam, one that isn't even streetable. Stage 2 heads/moderate cam will get you around ~400rwhp. Keep in mind, with a higher stall there is more drivetrain loss.

You aren't getting to 475rwhp without forced induction on stock displacement.

And forging the block doesn't do much for achieving power, it just helps the motor handle the power.

 

Would punching it out to 383 get the power?
But aren't strokers pretty unreliable street motors with that much power?

 

383 will still take a big nasty cam to get to 475 rwhp ... put in 6.0L block stroke and bore it out to a 408 and you can get 475 rwhp with a moderately nasty - but still nasty - cam.

But all of this hinges on what you consider streetable ... yeah you can build a 475 rwhp beast that you can drive on the street ... but it will not have great manners.

With that much power you have to be on your toes all the time ... slightest lapse in attention, a slight tap on the throttle and you can be sideways before you know it.

 

Streetable in terms that i can take it anywhere i do now. Movies, mall, dragstrip, and burger king drive thru.

Now, with a 6.0, is that the LS2 block, or can i reuse my current LS1 block for the build?

 

Perhaps a better goal than some random HP number would be what ET's you're looking for. You can have all the HP you want and still do 15s, power is useless without speed.

 

I would post ET but i'm not sure what that power would run with a stock weight car. Obviously I'd have to run slicks at the track. I dunno......are mid 10's possible with that setup i want?

 

With some weight reduction, big stall.. yes it is possible.

 

There are two types of cars ... street cars that you run at the track and track cars that you take on the street.

To do what you have to do be in the mid tens - especially N/A - you've pretty much crossed over into full track car.

Can you drive it on the street? Yeah. Is it really going to be practical? Probably not. ... If you're lucky you might get 10 miles to the gallon. At $2.70+ a gallon those trips to BK are going to get pricey.

 

the 6.0L block he was referiing to is the truck block, cast iron instead of alumninum like the LS1/LS6

since they are not sleeved they allow for bigger bore....so more displacement.

to be anywhere close to streetable, while not using FI or juice...i would say 425rwhp is about your limit. and even then you'll be needing a pretty nasty cam and some good heads

i think you need to do some more research and set some more attainable goals