GoFast908Z

I spent an hour and a half reading the cam sticky on LS1tech, and I am so lost. I understand the LSA a little bit, but not much else. I swear that was more confusing than my last chemistry class.

Ok, I'm looking for a cam for my LS1 (not the stroker motor). Something that will improve low end and midrange power. I'm not too concerned with smog, however I don't want some big nasty cam that has zero chance. Something mild. I think a 112 lsa might be too much lope for me.

Also the sticky said to match the cam to your stall. Why? What purpose does that serve, and how can you determine what is a good match?

Can someone give me cams 101. Like I said, I read the entire sticky, but I got very lost. I searched but there was like 1000 results....I need some explanations in simple terms.


Mods are in the sig.

-Jeff

teke184

what hp are you looking for?

cam only 375rwhp would be attainable with a 224-228 cam, 114 lobe to keep the idle cleaner. a 224 has passed emissions in cali from what i've read with a good tune.

something more like 400rwhp would need a low 23x cam. something like the F13 or F14, or the TSP torquer cam. highly doubtfull they would pass emissions. the idle will be pretty noticable, but tolerable.

i would say a 3000 stall should be very useable with most of those cams, the bigger cams would probaly like a slightly higher stall...but it shouldn't be bad. improvement over stock...but not quite ideal.

you basically want to match the power band with the stall speed. the bigger the cam the higher the powerband...hence the neccesity for a higher stall. or that's how i understand it.

if you want a more streetable cam, better emissions...you should get a mild cam and then some ported heads. the 224 cam with a decent set of ported stock heads or some 5.3L heads would yeild great power in the low/mid range and stay very mild. many guys have seen 400rwhp with that combo

throw heads on a 23x cam and you'd see 425-450rwhp possible...but with less driveability than the milder cams

GoFast908Z

well, my current hp is unknown since when I tuned i discovered some motor problems. I still need to retune. But last was 314/335 hp/tq respectively. I'm looking to break or meet 400 flywheel. But i just want some more low/mid powerband.

This cam is just to hold me over till I get my stroker, so a set of heads is not cost effective.

would a 224/224 114 be ok? could i hear the lope through my duals?

teke184

400rwhp with an auto is gonna take a pretty decent cam like the ones i listed....F14 or Torquer
www.futralmotorsports.com
www.texas-speed.com

those cams will also have a much higher power band...they make good power down low...but they ultimately are designed for top end power.

although my Torquer (old version) makes great torque from 300-6000rpms...nice and flat.

the 224 is a nice cam, with an audible lope...but it won't get you the 400rwhp you want.

teke184

oh yeah...and those 2.73s are gonna kill you with a cam....



here is my dyno graph for my M6 car...full bolt ons. you can see where the clutch slipped. and since then i've replaced that, put on true duals and harland sharp roller rockers. also realized that the TB was only opening about 85% for the dyno run...i'm confident i'd make 400rwhp now...and i'm sure the torque band would look similar just be a bit higher

GoFast908Z

i'm not wanting 400rwhp. i said 400 flywheel. Reason why? Just cuz i like that round number.

bottom line, i'm not concerned with dyno numbers for this cam as it is the last mod to my LS1. Just want something that will put a little more pep in the low and midrange.

Why will 2.73's kill me? I hated them, but since I got a stall, they ain't bothersome anymore.

93redBirdMan

you'll only need another 25rwhp if you want 400hp. Don't buy a cam if that's all you want. Get full bolt on's and you'll be well over 400hp at the motor... With a cam you'll most likely be 450+hp at the motor...

93redBirdMan

and yes the 2.73 are killing your low end and midrange. Throw some 3.73's in there and you'll feel a good difference in your "get-up"

Capn Pete

2.73's aren't nearly as bad as people make them out to be . I've had every ratio under the sun in my car, and the 2.73's didn't "kill" the car. Heck, when I got traction, even with 4.10's my car would bog at the track . I've changed my old views ... I don't think the gears have as much of an effect (on an auto) as a stall converter would .

Now, all that being said, if you're looking for a cam, I wouldn't necessarily be looking for the highest power band cam out there for your setup . Look for one that gives better mid-low range increases, because with only a 3000 stall (and those pesky 2.73's) the power wouldn't start to really crank up 'til the upper RPM's, which, based on your stall/tranny/gear combo, would take longer to get to than if you had a higher stall, even lower gears, or simply, a cam that comes alive sooner than ~4000 RPM .

GoFast908Z

assuming fixing all my motor problems yielded NO hp back, i'd need 20 more rwhp to get 400 flywheel. (~20% driveline loss). Check the sig, I have full boltons with the exception of pullies, and i haven't even listed all mods. With these problems fixed, I could be at 325rwhp right now....i just don't know yet.


I already felt a good difference in my get-up with the converter. That gear change is WAY too big for me. Most people like 3.73, but most of them started with 3.23. Thats only a jump of 0.5 Going from the 2.73 it a full 1.0 jump. too much. Also 3.42 and higher put my freeway speeds above 2500 rpm. That is a headache zone in my car, because of my exhaust. I may switch to 3.23 eventually.


I said I was looking for low-end and mid-range. Not peak or highest hp.

I think i'm gonna forego the cam swap as there is a lot more expense to it than just the cam itself. I may start looking for a 10bolt with 3.23s.

teke184

i know you posted you have "full bolt ons"...and that you also don't have everything listed...

but i'm gonna list a few more things taht i don't see...if you already have them...good. if not it would be advisible to get them

lid - i know you have the ultraZ...not sure how your intake is set up.
LS6 intake - solid 10hp
ported TB - few ponies and better throttle response
160* thermostat

and a dyno proven couple hp is the TB bypass...nearly free and it helps a little.

something to consider instead of the cam would be a set of 1.8 roller rockers. relatively easy to install now that you already have the LS6 springs in. and with the added lift you should be able to get a solid 10-15hp out of them.

GoFast908Z

lid yes, 160 thermo yes. haven't done the other two though.

I think i'll just get a new 10bolt or just put the money into my stroker and wait.

teke184

if you're planning nasty stroker...you'll inevitably need a stronger rear end.

i'd start saving for a 12bolt

then you can have the gears upgraded for better low end punch

GoFast908Z

hopefully the stock rear will last a little while (A4's are much nicer to 10 bolts than the M6 cars.) At least while i'm breaking the motor in. But a 12 bolt is in the project budget.

Need4Camaro

Sorry but it just caught me that in one of your previouse posts, you said the cam was going to be your last mod... Next thing you know, a 12 Bolt magically appears in the project budget!

Welcome to the wonderfull world of modding... It NEVER ends...