am i doing the right thing?? h/c = almost 400 hp??
am i doing the right thing?? h/c = almost 400 hp??
i think i've finally decided to go with a head/cam pkg(thunder racing cheatr). this will hopefully put me close to 400 hp along with a tune. that being said, what other mods(if any) to the drivetrain would i have to make to support the extra hp. i have a stock 98 a4 z28 2:73's in the rear....p.s...can someone out there let me know if any of u out there have any other economical suggestions for a h/c pkg.....thx
economical in what way?
what kind of setup are you looking for?
the TR224 cam with a decent set of heads will run very strong, be very street friendly and still get decent gas mileage.
are you trying to stay very street friendly or make it a sleeper? cause you can make 400rwhp from bolt ons and a decent cam. no need to spend the $1500+ on heads. but it won't be as street friendly and hear the cam.
to take advantage of the cam and power band, you're gonna want to look into a higher stall and probably gears. at least some 3.23s or 3.42s.
more info on your goals, budget and concerns with the setup is needed to give a decent reccomendation
what kind of setup are you looking for?
the TR224 cam with a decent set of heads will run very strong, be very street friendly and still get decent gas mileage.
are you trying to stay very street friendly or make it a sleeper? cause you can make 400rwhp from bolt ons and a decent cam. no need to spend the $1500+ on heads. but it won't be as street friendly and hear the cam.
to take advantage of the cam and power band, you're gonna want to look into a higher stall and probably gears. at least some 3.23s or 3.42s.
more info on your goals, budget and concerns with the setup is needed to give a decent reccomendation
I think you should save your money until you have enough to do it right. Get the supporting parts first. This includes lid, LS6 intake, headers, catback or cutout, gears and a stall. Sticky tires almost become a "must" too. Then when you make your cam or heads+cam move, the car will be in a better position to receive those mods. Be prepared to spend upwards of $2k to achieve this though. Also, don't forget about suspension. If you can't get the power to the ground, then what's the point of having it. Lower control arms and subframe connectors are definitely worth the investment.
With just those mods listed above, you're looking at a 12.5 second car (give or take a few tenths). However, if you take the current setup and slap another 90rwhp to it, you spend just as much and would be lucky to run a 12.5 assuming you can get traction.
Teke - He mentioned he was looking at the CheaTR cam.
With just those mods listed above, you're looking at a 12.5 second car (give or take a few tenths). However, if you take the current setup and slap another 90rwhp to it, you spend just as much and would be lucky to run a 12.5 assuming you can get traction.

Teke - He mentioned he was looking at the CheaTR cam.
Listen to what these guys are saying.
Find a take out rear from a 6 speed car with the same ABS sensor style (3 vs 4) as yours. Put some LCA relocation brackets and a TA cover on it then install it with good LCAs.
Get a good 35-3800 stall converter and have a TransGo valve body kit and a good trans cooler installed with that.
Then you'll have to have the computer tuned for the gear change and the shift points fine tuned. Have the tuner lower your fan 1 and 2 on/off points and delete your rear O2 sensors at the same time then when you go Long tubes and offroad Y it will be already done.
Get some subframe connectors put on.
With just this done you'll be amazed at how much more fun it is to drive and how much quicker it will be in a straight line
Find a take out rear from a 6 speed car with the same ABS sensor style (3 vs 4) as yours. Put some LCA relocation brackets and a TA cover on it then install it with good LCAs.
Get a good 35-3800 stall converter and have a TransGo valve body kit and a good trans cooler installed with that.
Then you'll have to have the computer tuned for the gear change and the shift points fine tuned. Have the tuner lower your fan 1 and 2 on/off points and delete your rear O2 sensors at the same time then when you go Long tubes and offroad Y it will be already done.
Get some subframe connectors put on.
With just this done you'll be amazed at how much more fun it is to drive and how much quicker it will be in a straight line
thanks for the input guys! looks like i'll be going with afr heads instead...i know i'd like to go the economical way and start with some lt's, but it's a guaranteed 'fail' for the smog test here in cali. so i figure the safest way to go is h/c to keep it street friendlyand gain some major hp. not taking it to the track anytime soon. kinda just wanted a street sleeper. i'm probably gonna get 3:42 gears and some subframe connectors in the near future....afr heads + cam + tune = $4800?
whoa....you gotta pass smog in cali????
shoulda told us that in the beginning.
running a h/c through stock manifolds, ypipe and cats is probably gonna cost you some serious power.
you'll be hard pressed to hit 400rwhp with the setup you're talking about...especially with an auto.
you should pass smog...assuming the tune is spot on.
what is the deal with superchargers in cali?? are they CARB certified?? cause for the $$ you're looking to spend on h/c you could probably pick up a SC and meet or beat your HP goal and have an easier time passing smog.
just a thought
shoulda told us that in the beginning.
running a h/c through stock manifolds, ypipe and cats is probably gonna cost you some serious power.
you'll be hard pressed to hit 400rwhp with the setup you're talking about...especially with an auto.
you should pass smog...assuming the tune is spot on.
what is the deal with superchargers in cali?? are they CARB certified?? cause for the $$ you're looking to spend on h/c you could probably pick up a SC and meet or beat your HP goal and have an easier time passing smog.
just a thought
supercharging and turbocharging are legal here here in cali...just alot more expensive to do than a straight h/c ls6 intake swap....it's also a little less practical for my application. but believe me..i'm not ruling out doing either in the future..
yeah...that cam and head choice should yield about 400rwhp on a bolt on car.
now if you try to run that through stock manifolds and Ypipe i can EASILY see it costing you 25hp
it would REALLY suck to spend $5000 on h/c and only make 375hp or less
now if you try to run that through stock manifolds and Ypipe i can EASILY see it costing you 25hp
it would REALLY suck to spend $5000 on h/c and only make 375hp or less
i know....that would really suck...but the fact that i live in cali kills my notion for longtubes and highflow cat!!...ah well...i went ahead and told them to throw in a slp ls6 intake with egr and some edelbrock shorties...i know the ls6 straight from a vette would fit..but alas..no provision for egr emissions!!...it's the best i can do for the state i live in!....Thx T-1000!.....or shall i say gov. kindergarten cop??
98's have the worst stock manifolds. I say go get the cheatr cam with budget heads, shorty headers, ls6 intake, 3500 stall, new plugs/wires and maybe upgrade to 3.42's or 3.73 gears.
Then spray a 100-150 shot for the extra power if you should so desire
Then spray a 100-150 shot for the extra power if you should so desire
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