Aftermarket rotors on 2000 Formula
Aftermarket rotors on 2000 Formula
It looks as if I need to remove the caliber bracket in order to remove the old rotors and fit the new rotors in!!! This is a new one to me. I even went and bought a Hayes manual and it says so too, even though they show the wrong year front disc brake.
I called a local F-body special performance tuning shop and they said, "No way, all you have to do is remove the caliber bolts, bolt bushings and calibers themselves. BUT NO, it will not come off! I have to be missing something.
Can someone help? I will need to buy a 1" impact wrench and tools to get those bad boys out! AND back torqued in correctly.
(Take into account I am a very old 47, due to some serious spine problems. Now all you young ones stop laughing. What goes around comes around especially when it comes to age. The alternative really sucks to growing old!)
On a lighter note, Powerstop Brake rotors will really do the trick. It turns out that "Phil" from Phil's (the number listed on the website) is a neighbor to some other old farts that used to work at HP like I did for years. And I even knew them both personally. What a small world!
Yes, Phil is my first call on Monday AM. The reason I mentioned this is two fold. He is a great guy and said these rotors are made for stopping a one ton truck. To which I say, GOODBYE warped rotors after only 5000 miles! Since I had three f-bodies, this was a serious time issue for me. But he advised, "remember other cars behind you do not have brakes as serious as yours so do not get into the habbit of showing off your 100 to ZERO times too often! Good advice I would say.
The other things not mentioned on Jegs website is you need the Axis special brake pads, and finding those HD studs in a taper with the correct threads will take some effort. I'll mention that to Phil and the Power Stop folks too.
Good driving and safe stopping!
I called a local F-body special performance tuning shop and they said, "No way, all you have to do is remove the caliber bolts, bolt bushings and calibers themselves. BUT NO, it will not come off! I have to be missing something.
Can someone help? I will need to buy a 1" impact wrench and tools to get those bad boys out! AND back torqued in correctly.
(Take into account I am a very old 47, due to some serious spine problems. Now all you young ones stop laughing. What goes around comes around especially when it comes to age. The alternative really sucks to growing old!)
On a lighter note, Powerstop Brake rotors will really do the trick. It turns out that "Phil" from Phil's (the number listed on the website) is a neighbor to some other old farts that used to work at HP like I did for years. And I even knew them both personally. What a small world!
Yes, Phil is my first call on Monday AM. The reason I mentioned this is two fold. He is a great guy and said these rotors are made for stopping a one ton truck. To which I say, GOODBYE warped rotors after only 5000 miles! Since I had three f-bodies, this was a serious time issue for me. But he advised, "remember other cars behind you do not have brakes as serious as yours so do not get into the habbit of showing off your 100 to ZERO times too often! Good advice I would say.
The other things not mentioned on Jegs website is you need the Axis special brake pads, and finding those HD studs in a taper with the correct threads will take some effort. I'll mention that to Phil and the Power Stop folks too.
Good driving and safe stopping!
ive removed mine atleast 4 times now there are 2 bolts on the back side of the rotar that hold the caliper to the poll (cant remember what its called ) anyways those are the only 2 then the caliper drops down then just pull the rotars off.. try hitting the back of the rotars with a rubber mallet cause they are probably stuck a little from being in the same spot. Its a 30 min job for the whole front its very ez....
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