I am looking to get a 1998 Z28 with 99,000 miles on it. The guy is selling it for $7000. It has no mods, but is in great condition. Not sure if I am going to buy it, but I am going to buy an LS1 very soon.

I am planning on only doing mods to the engine and maybe breaks and suspension later on. Once I get the car, I am going to immediately put in the following mods:

Hooker Competition Headers, Hooker Cat-Back exhaust, K&N Gen II FIPK, Thunder Racing CheaTR Heads and Cam package with 7.375 pushrods and new head gaskets.

I know I will have to get the car tuned after I do all that, but I think it will be worth it.

Does this set up sound like a good start, or should I do something else?

 

What are CheaTR heads?

Ben T.

 

It sounds like a good start but 99k miles is a little further down the road than most cam swaps are done..

Also, you may be able to get a better deal than that, my car cost me 9,500 with 71k miles.

If you can, get a 99+. Do a search for what year LS1 is better

 

I just really want the LS1. I know I can get the 98 cheaper than other years, that is why I was heading toward getting that year. Is there any difference between the 98-02 LS1's? All I ever heard of was the you have to replace the water pump gasket on the 98's if you remove the water pump.

 

There is a camshaft called the "CheaTR", but there are no "cheatr" heads. TR sells GTPs and AFR heads.

Following the logic of the CheaTR, any ported 806/853/241 castings could be "cheater" heads. You wouldn't know they were ported unless I told you...

Point is, there are no "cheatr" heads.

Ben T.

 

"K&N Gen II FIPK"

just get a lid and do the FRA mod...or get a SSRA with the lid.

is it an auto? cause you'll probably need a decent stall to take advantage of the power, as well as possible gears if it's equipped with the crappy 2.73s.

and if it's an m6...the clutch probably won't hold the power

 

well i just bought my 1st ls1 and its a 98 auto with 116k. i kno thts a lot of miles but i got the car for $5800 and total spent $6600 because i got a 5yr/100k warranty, and i am so glad i got this car . rite now i am savin up for slp lid and flowmaster 40 catback

 

I hope that wasnt a total vehicle year/mileage warranty

 

I will look into the FRA mod and lid, or something along those lines. Yes, it is going to be an auto. I can no longer drive a manual because of a shoulder injury. I am going to try and buy an already slightly modded 98 or 99 Z28. The one I was looking at, the guy ended up selling, so I am looking yet again.

 

Hold out for an '01 or '02!

No AIR/EGR to mess with, LS6 intake manifold, Z06 clutch on the M6s holds more power than the '98-00 M6s, blah blah blah.

 

I would, but I need to get the car right away. Once my car sells I will not have another one. I am not sure if I can afford to get an 01-02 right now. I am just going to have to get a 98 or 99 and do what all I said I was going to do.

 

Are you getting an A4 or an M6? You're going to want either a converter or a clutch to make good use of your newfound power, so make sure you budget for that.

 

A4. I have a bad shoulder and it is to hard for me to shift a manual. What stall would you recommend based on the mods I am doing? 3000, 3500, etc?

 

I'm an M6 guy, but:

Are you going to be spending much time at the drag strip? Do you want to autocross (guessing not, since you said brakes and suspension would be waiting until later)? What are your plans?

In general, pick your stall based on your powerband. That's going to be based on your cam, and to a lesser extent, your heads. Stock, the LS1 powerband really comes on around 3500. With your mods, it'll be something different.

If you just want something that's fun to drive on the street, I think I'd go for a 2800 or so. If you want it to be a strong contender at the strip, 3500+ might be smart. 3000 would be a nice in-between.

That said, I've never driven a stalled LS1, and you should listen to the opinions of those that have.

 

Ok thanks...so anyone out there driven an auto with a stall?