I always here talk about doing cams and heads etc. on the board, why not a blower. GMHTP just did a 5lb boost blower on a 2000 C5 and only with the blower, a PCM re-program and new injectors they got 490 rwhp 480 lb/ft and a 11.5 @ 127 in the quarter....????
A Head and cam job is as much as a blower, why not the blower when you can do it in your garage over the weekend.

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99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, loudmouth
ported MAFs

 

I'll have to read that article because I have not seen many LS1's get that type of rwhp from a 5 lb boost before (though I don't profess to ba an FI expert).

I think part of the bias is towards going with a system that is all motor - no FI. But the #'s GMHTP is showing are fantastic. better than a H/C which is lucky to hit 400 rwhp.

 

tyburn motorsports had a stock internal Ls1 with a vortec intercooled blower run 10's, of course it had a tubular k member and carbon fibre drive shaft and so on. Personaly powerdyne is at the bottom of the supercharger barrel, if you are going to pay that much you might as well get a vortec or procharger.

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'02 Red Z28, ebony leather, M6, T-tops, Trac. cont., hurst shifter
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-Fat hurst shift ****
-Lead foot
Soon to be:
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lucky to hit 400rwhp??? LMAO!, man there are people with stock heads and reverse split pattern cams doing 400 to the ground...and most of the heads and cam are doing 400, the XR1 cam or whatever it's called from MTI paired with their stage 2 LS6 heads did 445 to the ground....PLUS heads and cam are alot more reliable than boost any day!
Rick
"ALL MOTOR"

 

It's only rather recently that H/C combos have hit the 400 rwhp mark. For quite awhile, the quest of the LS1 owner (till maybe last year) was to make 400 rwhp on H/C. Up to then, it wasn't being done (cost effectively with H/C). R/D has only now caught up. Cartek was really one of the first to get things flying into the 420+ rwhp range at a really affordable rate (IMO).

Most common until recent has been 370-380 rwhp. The LS6 intake was a major breakthrough in pushing numbers above 400. The LS1 intake was a hindrance.

H/C more reliable... very debatable. I've seen more problems with H/C packages (or heard about more problems, precisely) than FI - not that the cam or porting job was bad, but that a butcher install job was done.

And, if you live in an emissions tested area, H/C can pose significant problems with the increase in HC's arising from a CR boost (to 10.5:1 or so). You may pass, but then you may not (and no shop will guarantee a pass, from those I've talked to... they say "maybe"). No prob with FI.

 

I think Phat hit it on the head ... a blower just ain't reliable or consistant.

I've yet to see a LS1, or an LT1 for that matter, that was worth a crap at the track. They can't get the things to hook up. They'll have the occasional impressive run, but more often than not they'll get their *** handed to them by nothing more than a bolt on.

Look at the time and mph in your example ... 127mph in a H/C car and you're talking 10s not mid 11s.

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'01 Mystic Teal Z28
A4/3.23/Leather/T-Tops
Mods List Here

12.38/110.72/1.74 60'
325 rwhp/341 rwtq
www.MysticZ28.com

NorCal LS1/LT1

"To play it safe is not to play"

 

A good S/C will cost you with installation and reprogramming approximately $5500. For 2/3 that you can get a very reliable set of ZO6 H/C, then add some long tubes and you'll be pushing 400 RWHP.This is a far more reliable set up than any power adder on a all aluminium LS1.

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01 Sunset Orange SS
T-Tops, Neutral Leather, ASR, Hurst 6spd, ASR, SS Grill.
335RWHP - 352Max Torque .
Mods package: Lou's Short Stick, BMR- STB, SFC, LCA, Front & Rear Sway Bars, Torque Arm, Tunnel Brace and APHR. Corsa Exhaust, SLP MAS, SLP Y-Pipe and Lid.Power Shot,Hotchkis Springs, Hypertech 160 degree Thermostat, Therm relay set at 180 Degrees, MSD wires, NGK Irridium plugs, Royal Purple Synthetic package and HUD coming. ProFormance-MotorSports Inc. proform1@bellsouth.net

[This message has been edited by 01SunsetOrangeSS (edited July 21, 2002).]

 

Heads and cam LS1's have been doing 400rwhp for quite some time now. The LS6 intake is a boost to H/C setups but not necessary. I believe the LS1 intake doesnt become a hindrance up until 450 or so hp. The blower cars mph real good but like stated before H/C cars run the faster ET which is what wins races
Reverse split patter cams are recent, with the recent hit of 400 rwhp on STOCK HEADS. But a heads and cam car stage 2 for quite some time now has been around 400-420 with the new setups hitting 445. Now even the stage 1s do atleast 400 to the ground. GTP setups have been at the 420 rwhp mark since the beggining almost.
Example:
GTP stage 2 setups with their 226/224 cam grinds. been out since the T1/B1's from early LS1 setups.
A properly tuned and reliable power adder setup will only be "reliable" at low boost/small shot. This usually wont make as much power as a good heads and cam setup would without some bad *** tuning which only adds to the cost of an allready expensive route(blower/nitrous).
Rick
"STILL ALL MOTOR"
ps. I do not think that boost or spray on top of a built motor is bad but if the decision lies between power-adder only vs. built motor I say built motor.

 

I guess this discussion answers Btchslp's question - it's pretty much personal taste as to which route you go. Some prefer all motor, but others may prefer FI.

 

ALOT off people have probs with powerdynes..

yuck

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DaveD
1998 WS6 #207
-ARE Stage II Head/Cam
1998 Regal GS
-It Has Boost

The Phantom of CamaroZ28.com
Http://PhantomTA.cz28.com

 

IMO you're better off going with a heads/cam package for a daily driven car. LS1 ringlands don't seem to do well with blowers for long (at least that's been my experience), and heads/cam packages shouldn't have much trouble passing the sniffer, even the IM240 like we have in Illinois.

 

powerdyne 4.5# blower was not designed for the SS it was designed on the z28 and i have read about many people have problems getting them to fit corrects on their SS's,

 

What i love about the S/C over the heads and cam, is that you can make up for the elevation distance. Kind of on a larger scale, NHRA constantly changes the boost pullies to make up for elevation.

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'02 Red Z28, ebony leather, M6, T-tops, Trac. cont., hurst shifter
Borla (the expensive cut-out), Wisperlid W/K&N, FRA, Cags eliminator, Strange 4.10's, G2 Rear Girdle, Valv. Synthetic 10W-30, Redline gear oil, Fat hurst shift ****, Lead foot

Soon to be:
Alpine Screen, Orion xtr 800.4, xtrpro 1000, Kicker 12L7 in a milhouse, Focal polykev K2's, Focal utopia 6" audiom midrange.

 

Wouldn't a MAFT/ls1 edit tunning do the same as changing pullies at the track for us H/C guys?
Rick

 

I don't believe so. With tuning, you can only do so much until you can't tune anymore. That would be the max HP you could get for your cars set up with the mods you have. With a pully, you can just keep changing them when you want more HP. The only limit is how much boost your engine can take.

If manage and extra 15 hp with tuning, thats great, but that is your max (in this case). With all of your mods and your new tuning, you're maxed out. With a SC, a change of the pully you can get another huge gain. Change it up again, and you can add 50% more HP then when you started. If you go from 4.5, to say 7lb pully, wouldn't that be like a 75hp jump? Go to 9lb and an intercooler and now its 150lb hp over the 4.5lb. Now, my numbers are off I'm sure, but as a guess you get the idea.

I could be totaly wrong here, but that my understanding of it.


Milo