I had the window passenger side window motor changed last year on my Camaro before I put it away. It worked for about two weeks after that, and it is dead in the water again. Assuming they actually replaced the window motor in the first place, what would be the next thing to check? I've got the door panel off now and if they did replace it, they did a very very neat removal and install, because I can't see any visible repairs. I'm trying to see the motor itself to see if it looks like the new one.

Now I imagine it could be a switch somewhere, but would a bad switch on the passanger side also effect my ability to control the window from the driver side? There is literally no response at all when either switch is used, almost like it's not even connected. After it was changed it never went slowly like the dying motors do....it just stopped and won't do anything.

Just need an idea of where I should start, as I don't really have any idea as to what else would be causing it.

Edit: I'll snap a couple photos to post to see if anything abnormal sticks out to you guys, like I said I'm stumped.

Photos: Motor def. appears to be the new one, so it must be some electricial issue?

 

You can apply power and ground directly to the motor leads to see if the motor operates. Reversing the polarity makes the window change direction.

It is possible for a fault in either switch to keep the window from working.

 

How would I go about that?

 

Hook a 12 V battery to the leads of the motor. You would know which leads they are by looking at which ones go to the control switch. But I wouldn't bother with it. I would just get a new switch from Autozone, assuming that they sell them. I'm in the same boat, I took the door panel off today. But read the posts about heat switch upgrades in the window motors. Apparently the motors usually aren't the problem, it's a thermal cutoff switch in the circuitry. I plan on doing the fix before I put the door back together.

 

The thermal protector that is referred to is inside the motor.

 

I must be blind.Where are the drill out rivit holes that I did?Where are the replacement nuts and bolts that were put back into it.Where are the scars of drilling like I did.Beer time.My02.

 

Does not look like they replaced it to me.. They could have re-rivited it but I highly doubt it.

The internal proxy switch in the motor is what causes it to stop. The reason it starts stopping the motor early is due to the motor being underpowered.

When an electric motor is underpowered the brushes wear quickly and build up carbon on the contacts. This increases resistance which trips that proxy switch early. You can find more info about this here

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=598872

 

I thought the same thing. The repair looks to have been something other than a motor replacement. The duct tape doesn't look factory so maybe it was a switch or wiring. I could be missing something because the pictures are way too big for my 1280x1024 resolution.

 

I was curious about the lack of holes as well, but it was done at a shop, so I figured perhaps they knew a better less invasive way? Not really sure though. I mean I have no idea if there is another way or not, or is drilling just the easiest way? The plastic moisture barrier is also gone, so someone was def. in there.

You guys don't think that the motor looks shiney and new compared to the other corroded parts? That is the only thing that makes me believe it was replaced. That, and you can see there is a bolt with a nut on it, compared to just rivets like from the factory. Coupled with the fact that the motor had not worked for months, and then began to work after it was worked on for a couple weeks at least.

 

Well turns out it was just an electricial problem. I jimmied with it a bit more today, and for whatever reason the plug into the window motor isn't exactly staying where it. When you roll the window all the way down and get that little bit of flex in the door panel, it is moving enough to pull the swtich out some and it won't work untill you push it back. It is securely snapped into the plug though, so it's kinda strange it has a bit of play in it now but oh well. I think I've got it secured in such a matter that it won't move even when the window is all the way down.

So apparently you can replace the motor without drilling holes through everything like I did in my D.D.

 

Sure you can, by removing the whole regulator. It's a whole lot more trouble, though.