Whattt firsttt????
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 382
From: East Detroit/Macomb, MI
Whattt firsttt????
so what should i upgrade now?? i have flowmaster exhaust...bbk headers...trango shift kit in trans....stock engine! what should i upgrade? i was thinking a bbk throttle body and then some aftermarket bushings (the red ones) and then a trick flow aluminum inlet elbow...what are your opinions and any help or criticism is greatlky accepted
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Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,094
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Is your "Flowmaster exhaust" a full cat-back? If not, you need a cat-back. As mentioned above, the CAI is mandatory. Throttle body bypass, 1.6 RR's, PCM tune would all produce more power than the BBK throttle body (52mm??) and the aluminum inlet elbow.
Which rear axle ratio do you have 2.73 or 3.23? A higher stall converter and 3.73 gears will really wake it up, particularly if you have 2.73's now.
As far as putting the power to the pavement, stick tires, tubular lower control arms (LCA's) and LCA relocation brackets. Adjustable tubular panhard rod would be next. Which bushings you want on the LCA's and other suspension parts depends on how you use the car. All poly will work OK for straight line applications, but they can be too stiff for cornering applications, and put the suspension in bind when the body rolls.
Which rear axle ratio do you have 2.73 or 3.23? A higher stall converter and 3.73 gears will really wake it up, particularly if you have 2.73's now.
As far as putting the power to the pavement, stick tires, tubular lower control arms (LCA's) and LCA relocation brackets. Adjustable tubular panhard rod would be next. Which bushings you want on the LCA's and other suspension parts depends on how you use the car. All poly will work OK for straight line applications, but they can be too stiff for cornering applications, and put the suspension in bind when the body rolls.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 382
From: East Detroit/Macomb, MI
Is your "Flowmaster exhaust" a full cat-back? If not, you need a cat-back. As mentioned above, the CAI is mandatory. Throttle body bypass, 1.6 RR's, PCM tune would all produce more power than the BBK throttle body (52mm??) and the aluminum inlet elbow.
Which rear axle ratio do you have 2.73 or 3.23? A higher stall converter and 3.73 gears will really wake it up, particularly if you have 2.73's now.
As far as putting the power to the pavement, stick tires, tubular lower control arms (LCA's) and LCA relocation brackets. Adjustable tubular panhard rod would be next. Which bushings you want on the LCA's and other suspension parts depends on how you use the car. All poly will work OK for straight line applications, but they can be too stiff for cornering applications, and put the suspension in bind when the body rolls.
Which rear axle ratio do you have 2.73 or 3.23? A higher stall converter and 3.73 gears will really wake it up, particularly if you have 2.73's now.
As far as putting the power to the pavement, stick tires, tubular lower control arms (LCA's) and LCA relocation brackets. Adjustable tubular panhard rod would be next. Which bushings you want on the LCA's and other suspension parts depends on how you use the car. All poly will work OK for straight line applications, but they can be too stiff for cornering applications, and put the suspension in bind when the body rolls.
Last edited by z28beast; Mar 29, 2010 at 09:14 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,768
From: Friendswood, TX, USA
A two second search, the first thing that popped up!
http://timney.cz28.com/tbbypass.htm
1.6rr is the ratio of the rocker arms, i.e. "rocker ratio (rr)". The stock LT1 rocker ratio is 1.5:1, the LT4 had 1.6:1. It's very common to replace the 1.5 with 1.6 rockers, as it's easy to do, realitively cheap, and is good for an increase in hp.
I think the next thing I would do is the rear end gears. Get the 3:73 gears. On a street car you may like the stiffer rubber pieces better then the poly, although I personally like the poly mounts, as long as you get the greasable ones.
As far as the "tune" goes, if you want the full benefits of the mods. you've done you should at least get a "mail order" tune. Look in the venders section. The problem is that if you keep mod'ing the car you will need to keep getting the tune upgraded.
http://timney.cz28.com/tbbypass.htm
1.6rr is the ratio of the rocker arms, i.e. "rocker ratio (rr)". The stock LT1 rocker ratio is 1.5:1, the LT4 had 1.6:1. It's very common to replace the 1.5 with 1.6 rockers, as it's easy to do, realitively cheap, and is good for an increase in hp.
I think the next thing I would do is the rear end gears. Get the 3:73 gears. On a street car you may like the stiffer rubber pieces better then the poly, although I personally like the poly mounts, as long as you get the greasable ones.
As far as the "tune" goes, if you want the full benefits of the mods. you've done you should at least get a "mail order" tune. Look in the venders section. The problem is that if you keep mod'ing the car you will need to keep getting the tune upgraded.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 382
From: East Detroit/Macomb, MI
A two second search, the first thing that popped up!
http://timney.cz28.com/tbbypass.htm
1.6rr is the ratio of the rocker arms, i.e. "rocker ratio (rr)". The stock LT1 rocker ratio is 1.5:1, the LT4 had 1.6:1. It's very common to replace the 1.5 with 1.6 rockers, as it's easy to do, realitively cheap, and is good for an increase in hp.
I think the next thing I would do is the rear end gears. Get the 3:73 gears. On a street car you may like the stiffer rubber pieces better then the poly, although I personally like the poly mounts, as long as you get the greasable ones.
As far as the "tune" goes, if you want the full benefits of the mods. you've done you should at least get a "mail order" tune. Look in the venders section. The problem is that if you keep mod'ing the car you will need to keep getting the tune upgraded.
http://timney.cz28.com/tbbypass.htm
1.6rr is the ratio of the rocker arms, i.e. "rocker ratio (rr)". The stock LT1 rocker ratio is 1.5:1, the LT4 had 1.6:1. It's very common to replace the 1.5 with 1.6 rockers, as it's easy to do, realitively cheap, and is good for an increase in hp.
I think the next thing I would do is the rear end gears. Get the 3:73 gears. On a street car you may like the stiffer rubber pieces better then the poly, although I personally like the poly mounts, as long as you get the greasable ones.
As far as the "tune" goes, if you want the full benefits of the mods. you've done you should at least get a "mail order" tune. Look in the venders section. The problem is that if you keep mod'ing the car you will need to keep getting the tune upgraded.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,768
From: Friendswood, TX, USA
I think you'll find everyone has their own idea's on how to proceed. I would wait until I had the money to do the head, cam. and rockers together.
The TB and inlet elbow are easy and you don't have to "get into the engine".
Look at http://www.summitracing.com/ and http://www.jegs.com/ to get an idea on prices.
Injuneer; A higher stall converter and 3.73 gears will really wake it up
Look at http://www.summitracing.com/ and http://www.jegs.com/ to get an idea on prices.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 382
From: East Detroit/Macomb, MI
I think you'll find everyone has their own idea's on how to proceed. I would wait until I had the money to do the head, cam. and rockers together.
The TB and inlet elbow are easy and you don't have to "get into the engine".
Look at http://www.summitracing.com/ and http://www.jegs.com/ to get an idea on prices.
The TB and inlet elbow are easy and you don't have to "get into the engine".
Look at http://www.summitracing.com/ and http://www.jegs.com/ to get an idea on prices.