Total cooling upgrade
Total cooling upgrade
Well, I've had it with my cooling problems. When I drove the bluez to the track last Wednesday, it got all the way to the first tick before the red and took forever to cool down between runs. I really don't think it's daily driver material as it sits, so I'm upgrading everything. I'll do pics and a writeup as I go, because it's going to be fairly extensive...
Step 1: I got the A/C delete/alternator relocation bracket, so I'm taking all the a/c stuff off including the condensor and moving the alternator out of the way of the valve covers. http://www.speedspecialty.com/store/...=lt1altbracket
Step 2: I purchased a Griffin universal radiator from Summit. 27.5 x 19 w/2 rows of 1" tubes. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...D1%2D25242%2DX
Step 3: I'm going to drill a 1/16" hole in my thermostat to let coolant pass all the time for the purpose of keeping the system bled.
Step 4: I purchased a flex-a-lite 220 dual fan setup from Summit. Only 2.25" wide and 2500 CFM. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=FLX%2D220
Step 5: I purchased a Meziere HD electric water pump to replace the CSI I'm currently using. The CSI is rated at 37 GPM. The MEZ-WP118HD is rated at 55 GPM. No link online, but it goes for $230.
So, 50% more waterflow, bigger radiator without the hot tranny fluid inside, no a/c condensor blocking airflow, and better bleeding should do the trick. The fans are to give some extra room for the larger waterpump motor. The stock ones have to be at least 6" deep, including the motors...
It's going to take some custom fab to get the radiator mounted and some hose work. I've already got an external tranny cooler, so that should just be some hose work, as well. The fans come with excellent mounting brackets and through the radiator straps, as well. Also a very good wiring kit. I'll probably try to put some stock fan connectors on the wiring, so I can easily put back the stock fans if necessary.
There is some chance that I'll do everything except the radiator in the first run and see how it works. The extra flow of the Meziere might be enough with the bleed hole. It'll depend on how easy the radiator mounting looks. If it's a major pain, then I'll probably do the upgrade in two stages. I'd like this to be something that can be documented and installed easily, so any other f-body guy can do it. In my research, cooling seems to be in a close tie with the opti as the f-bodies biggest issue. Fuel pumps come in a very close third...
Anyway, if anyone sees any holes here or has any ideas, I'd appreciate it. I know some have done the Griffin and some have done the a/c delete, so any help would be great.
Sorry this is so long, I'm just trying to organize thoughts and give everyone the scope of the project. TJ
Step 1: I got the A/C delete/alternator relocation bracket, so I'm taking all the a/c stuff off including the condensor and moving the alternator out of the way of the valve covers. http://www.speedspecialty.com/store/...=lt1altbracket
Step 2: I purchased a Griffin universal radiator from Summit. 27.5 x 19 w/2 rows of 1" tubes. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...D1%2D25242%2DX
Step 3: I'm going to drill a 1/16" hole in my thermostat to let coolant pass all the time for the purpose of keeping the system bled.
Step 4: I purchased a flex-a-lite 220 dual fan setup from Summit. Only 2.25" wide and 2500 CFM. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=FLX%2D220
Step 5: I purchased a Meziere HD electric water pump to replace the CSI I'm currently using. The CSI is rated at 37 GPM. The MEZ-WP118HD is rated at 55 GPM. No link online, but it goes for $230.
So, 50% more waterflow, bigger radiator without the hot tranny fluid inside, no a/c condensor blocking airflow, and better bleeding should do the trick. The fans are to give some extra room for the larger waterpump motor. The stock ones have to be at least 6" deep, including the motors...
It's going to take some custom fab to get the radiator mounted and some hose work. I've already got an external tranny cooler, so that should just be some hose work, as well. The fans come with excellent mounting brackets and through the radiator straps, as well. Also a very good wiring kit. I'll probably try to put some stock fan connectors on the wiring, so I can easily put back the stock fans if necessary.
There is some chance that I'll do everything except the radiator in the first run and see how it works. The extra flow of the Meziere might be enough with the bleed hole. It'll depend on how easy the radiator mounting looks. If it's a major pain, then I'll probably do the upgrade in two stages. I'd like this to be something that can be documented and installed easily, so any other f-body guy can do it. In my research, cooling seems to be in a close tie with the opti as the f-bodies biggest issue. Fuel pumps come in a very close third...
Anyway, if anyone sees any holes here or has any ideas, I'd appreciate it. I know some have done the Griffin and some have done the a/c delete, so any help would be great.
Sorry this is so long, I'm just trying to organize thoughts and give everyone the scope of the project. TJ
Last edited by TonyJ; May 13, 2004 at 08:26 AM.
Good luck.
Make sure and leave updates to how it's going, maybe some instructions or something? I'm a little nervous as to fabrication, as the Z is my daily driver.
I agree that the LT1 cooling system SUCKS. I can keep it at 180 driving down the road, but sitting in traffic it will still go to 200 or so with a 160 thermo and the fans on in this Carolina weather. I'll be moving back up north in a few months, so I'm hoping I can get away without an overhaul through the summer. As far as I can tell LT1s do not like hot weather of any kind...
On a side note make sure and replace all the hoses, too, and make sure they don't have any kinks in them as that can also hurt cooling a lot. My heater hose was corroding from the inside and I couldn't tell that a bunch of rubber was sticking in the way of the coolant until it started leaking.
Have fun.
Make sure and leave updates to how it's going, maybe some instructions or something? I'm a little nervous as to fabrication, as the Z is my daily driver.
I agree that the LT1 cooling system SUCKS. I can keep it at 180 driving down the road, but sitting in traffic it will still go to 200 or so with a 160 thermo and the fans on in this Carolina weather. I'll be moving back up north in a few months, so I'm hoping I can get away without an overhaul through the summer. As far as I can tell LT1s do not like hot weather of any kind...
On a side note make sure and replace all the hoses, too, and make sure they don't have any kinks in them as that can also hurt cooling a lot. My heater hose was corroding from the inside and I couldn't tell that a bunch of rubber was sticking in the way of the coolant until it started leaking.
Have fun.
Well I've already got some updates...
The Griffin is a mismatch with the flex-a-lite 220. The fan is just too wide. It looks like the 220 can be made to work with the stock radiator, though. I'll know more tomorrow. I'm thinking the griffin is going to want a 16" single puller and maybe a pusher as well. It looks like the usable area of the Griffin (for the fan...) is 21.5 x 17...
The Griffin is a mismatch with the flex-a-lite 220. The fan is just too wide. It looks like the 220 can be made to work with the stock radiator, though. I'll know more tomorrow. I'm thinking the griffin is going to want a 16" single puller and maybe a pusher as well. It looks like the usable area of the Griffin (for the fan...) is 21.5 x 17...
The 220 actually fits the stock radiator very well, even though it is technically too big. I'll try to post pics tomorrow, but the 220 will mount at the very bottom of the radiator, resting on the same support as the radiator. Using the push-through connectors provided was very easy and the thing is in really well. Because it mounted low and the radiator is canted with the bottom further from the engine than the top, it had the effect of giving some more room in the engine bay. The fans themselves give a couple of inches, but because you can mount it low, you gain a couple more. The HD Meziere won't be a problem now, at all. The question of whether the 220s pull enough air is still up for grabs, but we'll see.
I've done a search, but I can't find the CFM for the stock fans. Anyone have an idea? I seem to remember reading they were 2600 cfm or something... Shoe...?
Even if I have to add a pusher fan in front of the radiator, the 220 REALLY opens up space in the engine bay. Today was a success. Pics tomorrow.
I've done a search, but I can't find the CFM for the stock fans. Anyone have an idea? I seem to remember reading they were 2600 cfm or something... Shoe...?
Even if I have to add a pusher fan in front of the radiator, the 220 REALLY opens up space in the engine bay. Today was a success. Pics tomorrow.
Here are the fan pics. Please ignore how dirty the parts are, I had to work fast while the engine was out...
http://www.webpeak.com/~tony/bluez/fan1.jpg
http://www.webpeak.com/~tony/bluez/fan2.jpg
http://www.webpeak.com/~tony/bluez/fan3.jpg
http://www.webpeak.com/~tony/bluez/fan1.jpg
http://www.webpeak.com/~tony/bluez/fan2.jpg
http://www.webpeak.com/~tony/bluez/fan3.jpg
Excellent work man. Keep us updated.
To anyone that is having cooling issues in their cars, I highly recomend get a fan switch or the fans reprogrammed and a 160* stat. I did the 160* stat and it kept it cooler, but still sucked in traffic. Since I reprogrammed the fans, I can sit in traffic for an hour without overheating. It just stays at 170-180*. And this is in 90-120* AZ heat. Tony, this doesn't count for you. You have too big of a blower.
To anyone that is having cooling issues in their cars, I highly recomend get a fan switch or the fans reprogrammed and a 160* stat. I did the 160* stat and it kept it cooler, but still sucked in traffic. Since I reprogrammed the fans, I can sit in traffic for an hour without overheating. It just stays at 170-180*. And this is in 90-120* AZ heat. Tony, this doesn't count for you. You have too big of a blower.
Originally posted by madhatter
Excellent work man. Keep us updated.
To anyone that is having cooling issues in their cars, I highly recomend get a fan switch or the fans reprogrammed and a 160* stat. I did the 160* stat and it kept it cooler, but still sucked in traffic. Since I reprogrammed the fans, I can sit in traffic for an hour without overheating. It just stays at 170-180*. And this is in 90-120* AZ heat. Tony, this doesn't count for you. You have too big of a blower.
Excellent work man. Keep us updated.
To anyone that is having cooling issues in their cars, I highly recomend get a fan switch or the fans reprogrammed and a 160* stat. I did the 160* stat and it kept it cooler, but still sucked in traffic. Since I reprogrammed the fans, I can sit in traffic for an hour without overheating. It just stays at 170-180*. And this is in 90-120* AZ heat. Tony, this doesn't count for you. You have too big of a blower.
You could try this stuff to use as your coolant as well, Super Chevy magazine gave it a big thumbs up.
Originally posted by roypenneyz
I to am having cooling issues in traffic how do you reprogam the fans tks. r penney
I to am having cooling issues in traffic how do you reprogam the fans tks. r penney
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
F'n1996Z28SS
Cars For Sale
8
Aug 23, 2023 11:19 PM
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



