alright, i have a 01 SS. mods are in sig,

anyway, ill start off with, i hate my factory 10 bolt, i want to put in a 12 or a 9". now, i never know how long im keeping my car, so would i have a problem reselling this rearend out of my car for like $2000 cdn? im gunna be buying a moser, with 4 ch abs eaton posi, 33 splines, 1350 yolks, and 4.10 gears.

okay, so what im on the fence about. here is the other stuff im thinking about doing

qtec cutout,
new springs, 1-1.25" drop, (whats a good brand, i hate my eibachs so im switching)
possibly a billet aluminum grill powercoated black, ( or keep my stocker)
and new tires, possibly the Falken Azeni RT-615, is anyone familliar with this one, i know its amazing for autox, but what about strait line traction.


now with doing my rearend im going to buy some dr's for the back, then a clutch is going to come sooner than later.

basically, would you guys do all this, like rearend, clutch, tires, grill, springs, cutouts. and spend around $6000. or just keep my stock rear, ****ty tires with no traction. and toss a bottle of nitrous on it, for $1000.

im not big on the nitrous thing, but it would be nice for the price. the only thing im worried about is im already making 407.4 rwhp, and i have a stock bottom end.


someone make up my mind for me,

my goal is to keep it a nice looking weekend driver, that runs low low 12's. or mayyybe dip into the 11's if im lucky.

 

Pay now or pay later... I would do the rearend, clutch,and tires now. Adding nitrous into the mix will be alot of fun, but it won't help your traction issues and it surely won't be the best thing for your factory rearend. My friend has a mild heads/cammed LS1 with a 150 shot of nitrous on it and he went through a handful of factory 10 bolts before he finally forked over the coin for a Moser 9 inch.

 

hrmm yea, good idea,. i think ill do it,

your buddies h\c ls1, what does he do for tuning, have a nitrous tune and a n\a tune? does the motor sound okay when he is spraying or is a 150 really hard on it, and also what kinda times does he run

 

He had the tuning done by a shop local to us, Speed Inc. To my knowledge, he doesn't have a nitrous tune and the car hasn't been to the track yet.

 

I would just do the tires, rear an clutch. Where are you getting ur car tuned?

 

me and my buddy do the tuning on the dyno, local shop has a chassis dyno, and my friend really knows his stuff.

check him out, he owns www.fasttoys.net

thats where i buy everything. his ram air induction is killer, gains ppl 2-3 mph in 1\4 mile.

yea i think im doing everything, and im on the fence about nitrous.

 

Sounds like a pretty cool shop. Does he tune LT1's?

 

he use to have a 97 lt1 firebire bird, so im sure he knows his stuff there too.

he currently has a 98 camaro z28 cammed, bolt ons, meth kit, vortec blower, just tons of stuff and a 01 corvette c5. thats his auto-x car.

id take either cars in a min.

actually, he is selling his camaro if anyone is interested, he never bags on it at all. i give him **** all the time for driving like a granny lol.

 

Yeah but the prices of F bodies here are just so expensive compared to the states.

 

I would avoid the lowering springs if you want to hook up at the track and put adjustables on the front with at least a 12 inch throw.

I can't remember if the cutoff is 11.99 or 11.49 for a roll bar but you may want to consider that as well, depending on the rules at your local track. A welded bar will stiffen the car quite a bit.

I would certainly go with a new rear. I have a Moser 12 bolt. What you get later on for the rear will be whatever the rate is for a used rear. No guarentees.

I would certainly add a driveshaft loop and some Mickey Thompson drag radials, and a better clutch will certainly be recommended.

Breaking stuff is never convenient and putting in good parts will save you headaches down the road.

 

would i hook with nitto 555rs? im looking at getting a set so i can drive on the street as well. i heard if you air em down and get em real hot they hook nice.

 

My 94z28 runs 13.70-80 @s.i.r and i,m running mt et street radials (track has no concrete on starting line!).These tires are deadly on the street(25psi) and no prep is needed. Also the 60ft times are 2.05 cosistently and again not much of a b/o is required.

 

you gotta get those 60 ft times down, thats not very good for a dr. ive done a 2.08 on HORRIBLE street tires. with slicks im hoping to pull a 1.6-1.7

 

Basically the Mickey Thompsons hook the best... By far....
Then the BFGs, but on a slick track (think "street night"), they can spin if you get out of the groove or if a groove doesn't exist.
Then the Nitto drag radials which also hook fine on a decent track but are crappy on a slick track.

The Nittos will last the longest for mileage, BFGs second, and Mickey Thompsons third.

It really is that simple.

Despite what some will say about drag radials being fine in the rain, the bottom line is that if you are like most of us guys, the combination of reduced tread depth from the onset, coupled with burnouts, does make them hazardous at speed on a wet surface. However they are fine for around town until they are worn out.

As soon as I started wanting to win races instead of just having a good time I bought a second set of rims just for track tires. Street driving uses up the oils in the rubber and burnouts wear them out fast enough without wasting them on the street sticking to every grain of sand I drive over.

 

you gotta get those 60 ft times down, thats not very good for a dr. ive done a 2.08 on HORRIBLE street tires. with slicks im hoping to pull a 1.6-1.7