Slow turn signal, low voltage gauge.... 98Z
#1
Slow turn signal, low voltage gauge.... 98Z
Today, I noticed the car idling a bit slow, then the turn signal was dog slow. Also the check gauges light came on.
The check gauges light came on and I noticed the voltage guage was about half way into the red.
I went home and put a multimeter on the battery and it read about 11.9V with the car off, and about the same with the car running. But the gauge in the car still hung at half red, I guess around 9-10V.
When I rev the car up, I expected the voltage to jump on the gauge in the car, but it didn't. I'm not sure if it should, I figured the alternator would pump it up?
So do I have a toasted battery (I think it's around 3 years old, can't find record), or something more sinister like a crapped out alternator? Ideas of what to check for?
Thanks.
The check gauges light came on and I noticed the voltage guage was about half way into the red.
I went home and put a multimeter on the battery and it read about 11.9V with the car off, and about the same with the car running. But the gauge in the car still hung at half red, I guess around 9-10V.
When I rev the car up, I expected the voltage to jump on the gauge in the car, but it didn't. I'm not sure if it should, I figured the alternator would pump it up?
So do I have a toasted battery (I think it's around 3 years old, can't find record), or something more sinister like a crapped out alternator? Ideas of what to check for?
Thanks.
#2
Well went to autozone and they measured the battery as low charge, but also saw the alternator only putting out around 10V, they said it should be closer to 14V.
they want me to yank the alt and bring it in to test. Of course I needed to drop by daycare to leave some suntan lotion for my kid (splash day) and the car wouldn't start. Luckily a lady had jumper cables and got me runnign so I could limp home.
Since the voltage does not go up when I rev, I'm fairly sure the alternator must be shot and my battery is not getting charged. By the time I got home, the battery gauge was pointing at 8v.
FML... Riding the bicycle to work now... The wife is out of town in Houston taking a test to make things even more interesting regarding how I'll pick up my kid later today.
they want me to yank the alt and bring it in to test. Of course I needed to drop by daycare to leave some suntan lotion for my kid (splash day) and the car wouldn't start. Luckily a lady had jumper cables and got me runnign so I could limp home.
Since the voltage does not go up when I rev, I'm fairly sure the alternator must be shot and my battery is not getting charged. By the time I got home, the battery gauge was pointing at 8v.
FML... Riding the bicycle to work now... The wife is out of town in Houston taking a test to make things even more interesting regarding how I'll pick up my kid later today.
Last edited by dtp; 06-25-2010 at 11:23 AM.
#3
I forget if on the Camaro you can change out the regulator or not. But if you can, change that out and all should be good, plus it will save you some cash. It usually sits(if its changeable) directly on the back of the alternator. If there isn't one, then yea new alternator.
#5
Ya, someone at work warned me about the regulator. I wonder if the people at Autozone can tell if that part is bad or not if I bring it in. Usually when the battery is low, the computer tries to rev up the engine to compensate, but it did not do it this time around.
#6
The regulator is soldered in and most part stores do not carry them in stock... Its best just to purchase an an alternator... Autozone sells some of the cheapest parts out there... I would not trust it...
Carquest has remans around 140 and new for 160....
Carquest has remans around 140 and new for 160....
#7
Ah, the place I went to was Advance Autoparts, probably the same problem, they quoted me $144 for a new alternator with my old one as trade in. (190 without trade in)
#8
#9
I'd like to get this finished this weekend if possible. Assuming that alt really is my problem.
#10
Took the alternator in to test and if failed. The regulator was bad, so I just traded it in. Yeah, I probably got a refurb, but it passed the test. Managed to get it in the car in about 1.5hrs. And amazingly everything worked. Voltage reads closer to 13 V in the car, idle fine, etc...
Hardest part was getting that damn 12v wire plugged in the top and the bolt on the back. I was probably doing it wrong, but I only had room to get one or two clicks with the ratchet on the bolt. Took forever.
Hardest part was getting that damn 12v wire plugged in the top and the bolt on the back. I was probably doing it wrong, but I only had room to get one or two clicks with the ratchet on the bolt. Took forever.
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