I have found a really good deal on some non-coated shorty headers but I am curious of the difference in gains the shorty headers have compared to the long tubes. Also how much does it cost for the coating and what is the point of getting them coated? Will I still have to extend the 02 sensors with the shortys? Will it also be easier to get the shortys in there?

 

Shorties=

Less power gain
Easier to install
Cheaper

Longtubes=

Bigger gain
Harder to install
More expensive

It's up to you. Coated headers look better, last longer, and keep heat out of the engine bay. You can run uncoated, but coated are better. Some longtubes are known to be a little short on ground clearance.

Even though longtubes are harder to get in there I suggest them anyway. Everyone says they're worth the effort- if you can keep the gaskets from leaking, that is.

 

Do you have any average gains between the two? Say the shortys free up 15hp and the long tubes 20-25? If it has that kind of minimal difference than that shouldn't be a big problem. Gettin rid of the restrictive exhaust manifolds is the big thing!

 

get the coating, check out the vendor list and contact Jet-hot

you won't need to use o2 extensions.

gains in the real world are hard to compare. shorties typically utilize the stock ypipe, which can still cause restriction. were longtubes use a totally new ypipe, and usually no cats.

honestly, shorties with a new low restriction offroad pipe for the ypipe is probably only losing 5hp or so compared to the longtubes with a ypipe.

if ground clearance is an issue, stick with the shorties or mids (nearly identical gains to LTs). if you want the most power, go for the longtubes, you can get several brands now, coated for under $400

 

I was about to get shorties, untill I saw the path they take. Go for mids.

 

In the May 2004 issue of Super Chevy LS1 Do's and Dont's:

"Conversely, our experts agree that shorty headers don't do an F-car any good. Go long, or go home."

 

Peak hp difference will be negligible.

It's the difference in figures across the powerband where the longtubes show why they're worth the effort. At lower rpms, longtubes do much better, whereas with shorties, the gain will be much smaller. If you switched from longtubes to shorties, you'd notice a hp loss at lower rpms.- So basically, longtubes will give you more of that low-end grunt that you just can't get enough of.

Keep in mind that either one is better than the stock manifolds, and the shorties would post gains across the board over the manifolds.

 

Shorties are no better than you original manifold.

 

Wrong. If you honestly believe that a manifold will scavenge a cylinder as good as even the worst header, youre dead wrong. Anyway, the length of the primaries is of little importance when it comes to peak power, thats more a function of the primary diameter. The tuning effects of a longtube may help out the low-end/midrange, but wont offer any more peak power than a shortie with the same size primary. Some may care about this low-end/midrange, but my converter stalls past it anyway, so to me, its meaningless in a race. By the way, a shortie can even make MORE peak power than a longtube in high-rpm applications, given the primaries are dumping into a big enough collector.

 

Agreed.

Bigger primary diameter - transfer of power to upper rpms
Shorter primary lenght - transfer of power to upper rpms

When I say transfer, I mean shift, as in peak hp went from this rpm UP to this rpm (usually with a gain in power as well...)

On that note, longtubes are generally better on the street on cars without a big stall, etc. Not to mention close to stock cars won't see a big peak hp difference between longtubes and shorties.

 

first, shorties are street legal because they don't move the cats. i know there expensive compared to the gain.(but so are good long tubes!) i called both jba and edelbrock,they both claimed 11 hp (probably 8 rwhp). a FAIR comparison to long tubes would include y-pipe. because lt's come with y-pipe already. lt's you'll gain 20-25hp (you may need pcm tuning to see those gains) shorties with say slp's or random techs y-pipes you'll gain 8 + 8 or aprox 15-16 rwhp. again according to the manufacturers. i wasn't happy with that super chevy mag article "go long or go home" sounds like something a dumb jock would say. i hope that person gets picked up by the cops for illegal exhaust. i have not decided which way i'm going yet. just got my catback on 2 weeks ago.

 

Shorties are great if that is the only thing you can do as far as legal stuff, etc. I got a spectacular deal on SLP Jet-Hot coated Shorties...got them for $250, so I couldn't turn them down. But if I could do it all over, I would go ahead and do LT's. Please get them coated though. It may cost a little bit more, but it's definitely worth it. Don't get me wrong though, cause Shorties are NOT crap like so many people on here say they are. I felt a good difference up top...and many of my friends agree.

 

Longtubes.

The only arguement I think I could make in favor for shorties would have to be ground clearance on lowered cars.

 

Or if they match your engine/drivetrain combination better. As GreenDemon stated, shorties move the power curve up in the rpm range. My converter stalls past where the longtubes boost hp, so theres no point to running them; shorties simply match the rest of my combination better. But if I was running a girly cam, small-runner heads and a stock converter, I would have gotton longtubes. People need to realize longtubes arent always 'better' in every application.

 

I think it depends on how much air the engine pumps.
I have run BBK shorties and Hooker LTs. I am considering putting on some Edlebrock shorties to show that the MPH in my motor is negligible.

Some one want to provide me with the headers and other related exhaust work?