Restore engine treatment!?!
Restore engine treatment!?!
I added a can of the Restore to my oil change. The usual oil pressure is about 40 till it warms up and goes to 18 when its hot. The oil pressure stayed at 60 for 10 minutes and took a long time to drop like usual. Is this normal and when should i see the results of the stuff improving my compression? I was worried about something being wrong since i just put the stuff in. I am looking for someone who has used this and there results and experiences. Thanks in advance.
well, its more then just thick oil. its stickier so it will build a thicker layer of oil on the cyl. walls and thats how they can claim helps compression. my opinion is, yes its a bandaid, and wont "fix" the problem of a worn out engine. but if it helps the eng. stay together longer, then why not? the only problem I could see is if it gummed up the oil pump, or clogged the oil pump pickup. that would be bad. I dont know though if or how long it will work or help you for, and at what point its just too late.
chris
chris
Well i used the search engine and 8 of 10 loved it and the other 2 just didn't like using "snake oils". I added the stuff and ran my fastest 1/4 mile time ever so maybe its not to bad. It says up to 500 miles to see a difference so i am interested to see how it holds up. My car should be faster so i figured the high mileage was robbing my power so WTH. The way they explain it the additive fills the scratches on the cylinder walls to improve compression.
I have used it in the past on a couple higher mileage vehicles I've owned. I never noticed anything good or bad from it. None of the vehicles were performance oriented or anything, just put it in for piece of mind I guess.
If it is able to fill in cylinder walls, just think of how it is attaching itself to other parts of the engine. It's just going to gunk up the whole thing. Maybe I would use it in a beater, but not something I cared about.
I have seen lots of bad things with the other brands and similar products and most are saying stay away. I still never heard anyone who used it to stay away because it ruined there engine or something bad happened and it could have caused it. The rebuild is coming either way so its like using Nos or smaller pulleys to get the most power until it goes. I will probably use it just this time unless after i change my oil i notice a drop in performance. The thick stuff is a concern and clogging things is an issue but it feels like its worth the $10.
sounds like the rebuild is imenent one day. I cant see the harm either to prolong the rebuild. just dont expect to set any HP records cause the added wieght of the thick oil hanging onto the rotating assembly is the only harm I can see from it.
chris
chris
The first time I added this stuff to my car was with the engine running after a fresh oil change. And before i even finished dumping the can in you could hear the valuetrain hush up. Definatly quiter. The can says "guaranteed improvements or your money back". I don't know if it's all in my head or what, but i think the car felt better. this was at 100k miles too.
I like it.
I like it.
LT1 blocks have notoriously stout cylinder walls, and unless your engine has ingested something it shouldnt have chances are your cylinder walls will not benefit too much from a thick, sticky additive hanging around and you will most likely lose power. It will quiet a noisy valvetrain, but it also clings to and adds a lot of friction on all the moving parts in your engine.
If you do have crazy high mileage, you will be better off just running a thicker oil when your mileage gets higher instead of adding addititives that may have adverse effects.
My DD recently hit 160k miles(still running strong!) and my speed shop recommended a switch from the very thin conservatively rated Mobile1 5w30(it is actually thinner then a lot of synthetics that are rated the same...) to a 10w40 part synthetic to keep the longevity up.
Although popular, I have also heard that mobil1 synthetic does not have some of the proper ingredients for an iron blocked engine like an LT1, and is geared towards modern aluminum engines. I am not sure how much truth there is in that, and I was not recommended to switch for that reason.
If you do have crazy high mileage, you will be better off just running a thicker oil when your mileage gets higher instead of adding addititives that may have adverse effects.
My DD recently hit 160k miles(still running strong!) and my speed shop recommended a switch from the very thin conservatively rated Mobile1 5w30(it is actually thinner then a lot of synthetics that are rated the same...) to a 10w40 part synthetic to keep the longevity up.
Although popular, I have also heard that mobil1 synthetic does not have some of the proper ingredients for an iron blocked engine like an LT1, and is geared towards modern aluminum engines. I am not sure how much truth there is in that, and I was not recommended to switch for that reason.



Yeah, do whatever you want to it.