All - I'm doing a power window replacement using this guide: (http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html) on my 93 Z28, drivers side. Reached a block and hoping for some help.
I breezed thru everything till I got to drilling the rivets out, initially I broke my drill bit in one, had to fish it out and get a new bit. All was well, busted thru the rivets just fine, I can see clearly thru to other side.
So instead of the motor falling out it didn't move, and no matter how hard or what way I tug on it I can't move it. Took out the speaker for access tried wedging a screwdriver in too, won't budge.
Any idea's what's holding this thing in?
Another question, the replacement motor I got is from vietnam, it has proper bolts and screws and some weird brackets - I won't need the brackets right? In theory I can just screw it in to the same rivet holes - is I can get it our, right?
Appreciate any help anyone can offer. I don't want to take the rest of the door and deal with the regular, not sure how.

 

I recently replaced both my window motors using shoebox's guide, too. Neither motor fell right off after drilling the rivets but they both popped off with barely any effort when I pulled on them. The only thing I can think of is that you may have drilled the wrong rivets. I snapped a couple pics as I worked but could only find these two of the passenger door:




I bought my new motors from Autozone, they had lifetime warranties. They came with two types of screws and I only used the smaller of the two types. There is no need for any bracket.

 

My thought is as well that you probably drilled out the wrong rivets. Look very closely at shoebox's pictures to make sure your in the right spot. You will need to drill holes in the interior door panel (metal panel) to expose the rivets then drill the rivets out. Once you've done it once it's very easy to take the bolts out and swap out a power window motor in maybe 30 mins.

 

I figured it out, was using a drill bit too small and didn't knock out the whole rivet. Got a bigger drill bit and it came out fine. Next challenge is getting the new motor in, tried test fitting and can't see a thing as far as aligning the gear. I don't have an inspection mirror, guess that is key here. Any thoughts?

 

Line up the holes and the gear will be line up.

 

My holes aren't lining up yet, but I do have a shaving mirror that works well inside the door and allows me to see where to place it. My replacement motor is from Vietnam and I think I may have to drill some extra holes, can tell yet. Having a hard time getting the screw in, because the screw isn't long enough to line up and push in with a screwdriver, it's brass so wont work with a magnetic screwdriver. The hole in the fiberglass isn't big enough for me to hold the screw up to it, just keep dropping it in the door. Tried a pair of needle nose pliers too, want to smash something, have to try again tomorrow.

 

Update for me and more problems. Had some time to put in this morning. After a long struggle, I got the new motor screwed and bolted in. Connected it and then the window switch for a test; turned the car on first cause my battery was low. First test goes down fine but slow. Try putting it up and it moves a little but then is really slow and stops. Had to pull up on it and while hitting the switch to get back up. Tried the passenger side and it still works as always. It's like the motor just has no power and is already burnt out.
I replaced the original because it had the classic symptoms exactly as described in your article, I milked it for 3 years but it had gotten the point where it wouldn’t move more then in inch up before quitting.
Bought the replacement motor two summers ago at an auto zone but kept putting it off until now. The brand is a ‘Dorman’ and I paid $30 for it, sure I don’t have the receipt any more and it’s been over 2 years.
So, just to rule anything else out, is it possible it’s not the motor? If it is the motor my only choice will be to get another one, this time I will just try for the GM original part if that’s still possible. I don’t want to go thru the resto camaro sites like Ricks because they seem to have huge mark up and I’m not sure it’s even GM original.

 

I've done this too many times on my 95. Orig motor lasted about about 9 or 10 years but car wasn't a daily driver the first 6 or 7 years of it's life.
The first window motor was made in China, it lasted about 3 years.
Next was a Korean made one, it lasted only a year.
Now I have Mexican made one, it's been in about 2 years and still works fine.
These were all Autozone units with a lifetime warranty so I only paid the first time around.
Bet your Vietnam made one is about as good as the Korean one, pos.
Passenger side is still the factory original but is extremely slow now.

 

I guess I got 15 good years out of the original drivers side, passenger side is orignal but slow too.
I've no idea what I did with the receipt, so I'm probably not getting a replacement for free. So it sounds like a new motor failing on the first attempt could be a possibility. Still troubleshooting and hoping it's something else. Driving around with the door taken apart is real classy.

 

Since you got the motor at Autozone, they will have a record of it. It's tied to your phone number and address.

 

I've gotten 2-3 replacements and they've never once asked for my physical receipt. I've been given the wrong motor before (the motor looked identical, but the gearing was different... inspect the gears with the one that you pulled out to ensure you got the right one).

Also one thing I've done to make it easier when lining it up when your putting the new one is plugged in the new motor and used the window switch to turn the gears to the proper spot to sync with the window gear where it was at.

 

I am going through this process now. Regarding your current issue, check two things:

1. Make sure all the roller wheels on the regulator are in their proper tracks.

2. Make sure the screws you are using to secure the motor to the door are not interfering with the movement of the parts. If the screws are too long or over-tightened, they could actually be blocking parts or holding parts in place.

FYI, as soon as I read about your problems getting the motor out I knew you hadn't completely drilled out the rivets. All the metal from the rivets needs to be gone.